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Head bolt stripped HELP

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    Head bolt stripped HELP

    I got a DOHC F22B last week and Im trying to get the engine freshened up, but I've come acrossed a bit of a problem. I got 4 of the 5 head bolts out on the exhaust side, but the 5th bolts head stripped out on me. There is still some good meat left on it, but it wont let me torque it loose with too much power because the socket just spins on the head. I've stopped trying to get it off and Im thinking about just saying fuck the head gasket and do everything else (timing belt, ect...) any suggestions on this? Thanks,


    Ian

    #2
    Wow, lets not all jump on this right away. lol Well nevermind about the stripped bolt, I just went to Wal-Mart and got a 9/16 socket for the stripped 14mm bolt and hammered her on there and popped it off... THANK GOD!!! lol

    Lesson learned!

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      #3
      Ok, now I have another smaller problem. Im trying to find TDC on my flywheel and I know the white one is TDC, but what is the Red one? Do I need to line the pointer up with the red one for TDC or the white one for TDC? Im guessing the white one obviously, but wtf is the red one there for?

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        #4
        oh crap, same thing happened to me... but for 2 studs. I think your solution will work for one of mine, but not the other...

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          #5
          What happend to the other? Just keep trying to use a smaller socket if its really rounded off. Hammer a 9/16 socket on there or something smaller until you can get one to bite. And use impact sockets, they are much stronger.

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            #6
            I also loosend them up first by hitting them a few times with a hammer and a punch. Figureing that may help break them loose from the block a bit.

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              #7
              It didn't work, and they are way too torqued for a hammer and punch to do anything. Someone or something (time?) got those on there way too tight. I'm about to go take a cutting torch to them. Worked for my exhaust manifold

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                #8
                ugh... alright, a breaker bar didn't work, breaker bar with WD-40 didn't work, breaker bar with extension didn't work, breaker bar with extension while bathing in PB Blaster didn't work, vice grips with something to rotate them didn't work, trying to grind it off started to work, but then didn't work, dremel with a cutting disk didn't work, and cutting torch didn't work. WTF do I do now?

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                  #9
                  have you tried to heat the shit out of them with a oxy-accetyline (SP) torch, until the bolt is glowing red and then taking a pry bar to it. Im not sure what the outcome will be, but I had to do that to my crank shaft bolt to get that fucker off and it worked like a charm. Head bolts are longer and are made of (I think) a diff grade metal, so it might not work. but Im sure at this point it couldn't hurt in the situation your in. If you try this, be careful not to ignite any excess oil or fuel. Keep a fire extinguisher close by. lol

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                    #10
                    how would you get a pry bar under there? Anyway, it wouldn't work, I already tried using an oxy-acetylene cutting torch to try to "cut" the head off the bolts, and the bolts wouldn't heat enough

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                      #11
                      Try calling up a mechanic shop and asking them what they would do in that situation. If you cut the head of the bolt off and slide the cylinder headoff, you might be able to grind another head on the stub that is left and get it of then, but im not sure how well that will actually work.

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                        #12
                        whew you guys are violant with the head bolts. like i said in the other one you should use the smaller 3/8" drive socekts, if need be use a swivel head. I have never even come close to stripping head bolts (except stupid nissan ones...but they take a 10mm allen head) as for the torch idea that is a bad bad idea. The heat will warp the aluminium head or cut threw it first. You can't be heating it unevenly like that..plus you'll fatigue the hell out of the bolt. be careful with those!

                        as for TDC use your crank gear on the other side to measure were tdc is. The book will show you were that is supposed to be usually.
                        WTB:
                        88-01 prelude 2.0si (3g) si (4g,5g)
                        OR
                        90-93 Accord.

                        Has to be 5spd, has to be CHEAP. SUPER CHEAP. Will be in Indiana in February permanently and want a project car when I get settled in.

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                          #13
                          alright maing... if ur still fighting with ur head bolts, let me tell u what u doo.. i had that same exact prob with my a6 head and im going thru it with my h23 head... go to any parts store, and look for a blue case with some weird looking sockets, they are swirly on the inside... these are design to cut the surface of the bolt and dig in. u pick ur side and hammer it in, then with a breaker bar u go could take it out. if u can, find a longer breaker bar, the longer the bar the less force u need. i use a piece of fence tubing about 3' long with a fat ass wrench on the end.( thats my breaker bar) also used 1/2 wrenches cus the other medium size shit's dont werk.. i broke 15 extensions and 12 wrenches like that.. and they say craftsman is the shit!

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                            #14
                            that would have been nicer than what I wound up doing. Finally got a hole going through the middle and worked from there with a hammer and chissle

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