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    to those who have adjusted their own valves

    Hello,

    I have a question for you guys who've adjusted your own valves. I'm getting ready to do that on my H22 and I was wondering, how'd you guys turn the crankshaft?

    Is it just as simple as putting a 1/2" drive ratchet on the correct socket size and putting some *UMPH* on it? Btw, you are suposed to rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise, right? If you did just put a socket on it and spin it, did you have to worry about re-tigtening up the crank? If so, how'd you do it?

    Thanks guys
    2DAO (2 Door Accord Owner)
    JDM H22 DOHC 200/161 2.2L
    My members ride: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=20385

    #2
    you'll need a 10 or 12mm box end wrench and a flat head screw driver, a ratchet may be needed to loosen the nuts before adjustment.

    you'll also need a feeler guage w/ the correct thickness of guage. roating it shouldn't loosen the crank bolt, but alway re-torque it back to specs just to make sure it's right.
    be sure the motor is BELOW 100*F if not the metal would be expanded from the heat and when it cools, it'll cause a rattle from being out of spec from the metal contracting.
    take your time, it's an easy job. keep the haynes/chilton manual handy too.
    good luck an d let us know how it works out for you.

    Comment


      #3
      easiest way to turn the engine....
      crank it.
      you have the plug wires off. it wont start.
      lifes better in a wagon.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by souldoubt
        you'll need a 10 or 12mm box end wrench and a flat head screw driver, a ratchet may be needed to loosen the nuts before adjustment.

        you'll also need a feeler guage w/ the correct thickness of guage. roating it shouldn't loosen the crank bolt, but alway re-torque it back to specs just to make sure it's right.
        be sure the motor is BELOW 100*F if not the metal would be expanded from the heat and when it cools, it'll cause a rattle from being out of spec from the metal contracting.
        take your time, it's an easy job. keep the haynes/chilton manual handy too.
        good luck an d let us know how it works out for you.
        dude.. all he asked was how to turn the crank..

        i just used a 1/2" ratchet and a 19mm and turned the crank bolt.. yes, you are supposed to turn it counterclockwise to prevent any possibility of the belt skipping teeth.. and you dont have to worry about the crank bolt coming loose, trust me..

        Comment


          #5
          Easiest safest procedure:

          1) Pull the spark plugs

          2) Use a 19mm 1/2 Drive to spin the crank (with the plugs out, it is very easy).

          3) If the crank pulley bolt breaks loose, retighten to spec. It most likely won't come loose especially with the plugs out. It is torqued to over 180 ft/lb, so the engine will generally spin first.

          4) They say you should always turn the engine counter-clockwise, but sometimes you will need to back it up a tooth or two to get all of the marks lined up. I have never had a problem with it skipping, as long as I made the limit about 3 teeth back. Avoid going very far though, because the way the tension is applied to the belt, may allow it to skip a tooth if you go too far back. Just make sure you go through the procedure to tension the belt when you are done (you should do this anyways), double check that all marks are lined up correctly, and you should be fine.
          The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

          Comment


            #6
            I used the ratchet honda gives you with the jack.The same one you take your lug nuts off.I'm pretty sure there are easier tools to work with out there though.

            ILBB
            People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

            Mk3 Supra Member #2

            Originally posted by DarkShadow707
            The world needs to be reset.

            Comment


              #7
              I just pull the plugs out, and use a 19mm wrench on the P/S pump nut to turn the engine. Much easier than having to bend down and spin the crank everytime you move to another cylinder. Oh, and the P/S pump nut is reverse-thread so you don't have to worry about "loosening" it by turning it counterclockwise. This is the way I have always done it....very easy.
              00 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 4X4

              92 Honda Accord LX

              95 Honda Civic CX

              Comment


                #8
                ^^^ Good tip. Now if I only had PS....
                -Jay

                Comment


                  #9
                  ^^ what corey said, and it took me about 2 tries as after the 1st i felt it ticked a bit louder than usual, and after that it seemed better. my idle isn't rough and so far, nothing wierd. and its been like that for a few months. will push it a bit next time i drive it and change oil as all teh carbon and etc was getting everywhere..
                  hahahahah

                  Comment


                    #10
                    just remember a little too lose is way better then a little too tight...
                    dirty accord->
                    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...threadid=13407
                    crappy website

                    Comment


                      #11
                      the way i did it is, if say it was .12" i would try to make sure .13" didnt fit in there.I think thats the best way to do it.
                      People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

                      Mk3 Supra Member #2

                      Originally posted by DarkShadow707
                      The world needs to be reset.

                      Comment

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