Oh Snap!
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on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine. -
Well I stared at my engine in the dark for about 10 minutes tonight. Couldn't spot any spark gap jumping. So, unless there's another way to test for shorted grounds, I think I should move to the next thing.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
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Sort of a feeble attempt at updating this. I tried swapping my pt6 ecu with my old pt3 ecu. It made no difference, so I can at least say its not the ecu. I still think its the aftermarket dizzy, and I'm working on getting an oem one. (albeit used)
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
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I've just gone over what we have discussed so far & the one thing we haven't touched on so far is the Engine Ground Wires. Are they all clean & secure? Especially the ECU Ground at the Thermo Housing. Being one of the most common causes of EMS Related Faults, it is usually the one thing that is easily overlooked.
Just to add to previous suggestions. Make sure the Ignition Wires are separated from each other and not touching any metal objects. If Ignition wires are touching one another the can cause a Crossfire which is similar to a misfire. Use the Spacer connectors to separate the Wires.Comment
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The spacer is in place, though I may move it further towards the distributor to ensure they are properly spaced.
As far as grounds go, I worked up a sweat trying to find a bad ground a couple days ago. Unfortunately I could not find my digital multimeter (it has an audible continuity checker) so I had to use my old analog one with the swinging needle. I pretty much put one end at the negative terminal of the battery and went all over the place checking for continuity. I didn't bother checking the numbers, I just looked for a yes or no. I saw that ground under the thermostat earlier tonight while I was swapping ecu's. I haven't checked it out yet though, but I will.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
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Ok, here's an update. I got some video of it occuring, hopefully it will help more than me just blabbing and trying to describe it with words alone.
BTW, I cleaned and checked my grounds, they all appear to be good, and I cleaned several ground points. Including where the neg terminal runs to the left fender, where it meets the valve cover, where it connects to the PS pump bracket, and finally where it meets the driver side motor mount. It didn't really seem to help...it seems like its giving me worse mpg....
Anyway, check out that vid..multiple times if you don't catch the error, and let me know what you think. BTW, its not just an electrical gremlin causing the tach to jump, the engine speed raises with it...it almost sounds like the gear slipping at the end of 2nd. As for the torque converter jumping around...I just don't know, maybe a bad/worn torque converter?
Also, here's the outtakes/bluper roll from the film!
It's me cursing at bad drivers, haha lots of fun is had by all.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
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No one has a guess? No mechs ever seen it before? I'm guessing distributor and/or TCU at this point.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
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Ahem.
Got a replacement tcu. When I put it in I also topped off fluids. To my surprise the tranny fluid was low! It's never been low when I take responsibility for it, but about 2k ago, I had my mech drain my old tranny fluid in exchange for brand new honda atf. He put in the rec. amount (3.5 or something) and said that was dead on. Also about 2.8k ago I had the entire timing belt shizzle done (which of course is where this problem began) at the same time he did the oil pan seal, and of course changed the fluid (I supplied the oil to use). Ok so less than 3k ago the oil and tranny fluid was changed, supposedly filled to spec. Clear on that?
But when I checked fluid levels, auto tranny was below the stick and oil needed a quart! *GASP*
Ok, oil needing a quart of oil isn't gasp worthy, but the tranny fluid def was for me. My auto tranny fluid doesn't leak (that I know of). And it is still new stuff, still good color. So I filled tranny to the check mark. (Made absolutely sure, by adding to mark, going through all gears, checking again..) and changed the oil entirely the next day. (Hasn't been 3k but it was dark).
Went for a ride with topped fluids and new tcu. At first I thought the problem was gone! But alas, further driving and it reared its ugly head once again, just more softly. So it begs the question, did the new tcu do that, or did topping off the tranny fluid? Or is it both? I can reinstall the old tcu to test this if I get the motivation to do so tomorrow.
But it also makes me doubt my mech more....he prob checked the tranny fluid lvl without the engine running and without cycling the gears...sigh. I know he's not the greatest mech, but he's my friend and he lets me hang out and help, and explain what this and that does and doesn't charge me out the ass. It's not like its side work, he works at an actual mech shop.
So anyhow, this new data makes me look at the tranny possibly being worn out. Someone mentioned synchros before (?). It only *slips* at the end of second, followed by the rpm jump after the TC/overdrive engages. It never happens in any other gear. Review the vids and the rest of the thread to see what I mean by slip. But why would a tranny suddenly become worn after a timing belt change? It never showed this problem before the timing belt/dizzy change.
I still want to swap the dizzy for a known good OEM one, but all the sellers I've talked with have flaked out, and the ebay ones don't convince me they are OEM.
I am still very involved with this issue, and want it fixed! If I could afford it I would go to the dealership!Last edited by accordaffair; 03-12-2006, 07:20 PM.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
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to be honost with you, from a technician point of view, this case is called "EVER SINCE". but i am glad that your car is ok now.Originally posted by accordaffair
The beginning of a new era............................
165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......Comment
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?
What is this technical jargon you're throwing around. My shiz isn't fixed, its just confounding me further.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
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Sorry about the delayed response but I finally got to watch and listen to your Video,(My Broadband was on the blink.) but I also just read your latest response and I hope you never questioned your Mechanic about his method of checking the transmission oil, because his method is right. It should be checked with Engine @ N.O.T, Engine OFF and on a Level (Lateral & Longitudinal) Surface.Originally posted by accordaffair
Checking the Oil Level Whilst the engine is running will give you a low reading on the dipstick due to the fluid flowing through the transmission. It will be approx 1 litre(1 Quart) or the distance of the Upper & Lower Crosshatches.
Overfilling a Transmission can cause aeration of the Transmission Fluid which will result in incorrect shifts and possible slippages/flaring.
Now From the Sounds of the Engine and Shift Points in the Video, I cannot see where a problem is. It sounds like it's shifting quite OK for the Age & Expected Mileage. There is a slight bit of flare from 2nd to 3rd but nothing to be too concerned about. One important thing to check is the Kick-down Throttle Cable Adjustment. If it is out of adjustment it will affect Shift Quality. So it may be a combination of both.
In your OP you talked about doing a timing belt, then a stutter or misfire & Tacho Jump which led us down the path of an electrical miss. Hence the Dizzy & Ignition Wire suggestions. Is the problem in the video the original complaint or is it a newly developed problem? Because it is so difficult to diagnose a problem, especially over the internet, without all accurate & technical info available.
My suggestion is to get the Transmission Fluid Completely Exchanged with New "HONDA Z1" Transmission Fluid. I exchanged my Tranny fluid with my "Wynns Transerve II" Auto Fluid Exchange Machine and it required 6 Litres for a complete exchange. Don't forget there will still be about 40%-50% of fluid left in the transmission & torque converter after standard draining. If any of that oil is contaminated or burnt it will affect shift quality.
Also make sure the Throttle Cable Adjustment is correct.
Cheers
GeoffLast edited by F22-GURU; 03-14-2006, 06:12 PM.Comment
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sound like you been chasing the wrong problem. I would have leaned towards transmission problems since day one since those exact symptoms occur quite often on many accords in ym shop when they have high milage auto trannies.
anyway as far as teh flush goes it will either work or kill your transmission, honda has gone as far as making several tech articles stating NOT to do any kind of flush on the transmission.
If the car was in my hands i would take each solenoid off the transmission and clean it out in case there is any clogging in them. see if that helps some, also see about testing each solenoid too.Comment
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Wow, so much to read now.
So you check the auto tranny fluid with engine off? Damn, I read it was the opposite! Ok, I may need to go drain some fluid. The problem in the video is the problem I've been tackling this entire time. It feels/sounds like a slipping at the end of second. The engine rpms jump but no vehicle speed is gained. After fourth when the TC engages and the rpms go down as expected, they jump back up, which is not normal.
Again, I could understand if it developed over time, I would blame the age of the car. But to develop suddenly after a timing belt job? Anyhow, I am persistent to pursue it. Thanks for the responses!
Also, I rewatched the video I made. With the low quality and the shakiness and all, you have to watch closely to catch the tach jump. Its not as obvious as thought it appeared on the video. Its there but you have to look and listen closely.
BTW, can you give me more information about these solenoids?Last edited by accordaffair; 03-13-2006, 01:56 PM.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
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this is why i live by the words "if it aint broke dont fix it."
its been approx 160km since my tb was last changed and i dont plan to change that bitch until it breaks.Comment
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Well thats not a good idea.
Change a belt or change an engine (possibly).
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
Comment