I recently out on a Greddy evo exhaust system and DC headers. Ever since i put it on the check engine light has been on, i tried unplugging the negative battery lead for awhile and then reconnecting but the light is still on. Does anyone know what it could be and if i am hurting my car b driving it.
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This is thanks to Payson.cc
To retrieve diagnostic trouble code (s), find the little blue connector that has 2 wires going to it, under the glove box on the passengers far front side of the vehicle. Make a little jumper wire or use a paper clip to jumper the 2 wires together. Just straighten a paper clip and bend it in the middle and then push it into both openings on the end of the connector. Don't allow the jumper to touch any metal surfaces while it is attached to the connector, and no you will not get shocked.
By the way... if you have an automatic transmission when you jumper the connector either the (S) or (D) light on the shifter index will blink out any stored transmission codes as well as the Check Engine light blinking out stored engine codes. If you write me for help, regarding transmission codes.... make sure that you tell me what the codes that either the (S) or for different year car (D) codes are. I also need to know if the (S) or (D) are blinking or are just a steady on light.
I recommend that you purchase the HONDA OEM factory shop manual which will give you the probable trouble for the trany code received. You can order the Honda OEM factory shop manual on line at: Helm Inc just click on the "Repair Information Link" and also make sure that you buy the "ETM" supplement for electrical diagnosis. Yes they are a little expensive, but these manuals will arm you with the information you need to diagnose your problems.
Another by the way... I have been getting about 50-75 emails a day asking for help with these older Hondas' Most of you are students at colleges throughout America. You guys are in a perfect atmosphere for getting help, because most colleges have electronic classes, and those GEEKS :-) have access to lab scopes, so make friends with some of these GREAT GEEKS and share something you can do for them, so they will help you when you need to test something with a lab scope.
Next turn the ignition switch to the on position (all lights on instrument panel on), and watch the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. It will flash the codes. It is important that you have a clipboard ready to go with a pen. As soon as you turn the ignition switch on the check engine light will start to flash. One long flash will be counted as a 10 (s) digit. The following quick short flashes are the one(s) digits. Example: One long flash and followed by seven short flashes would give you a diagnostic code of 17. Three long flashes would give you a diagnostic code of 30. Eight short flashes would give you a diagnostic code of 8. If diagnostic trouble codes have been saved in the ECU, then the Check Engine light will flash the code 3 times. If there are multiple codes, each code will flash 3 times, before moving on and blinking out the next code, and will continue and come back to the first code and repeat the process indefinitely.
Make sure that you do not remove the battery cable or ECU fuse before you try to retrieve the diagnostic codes or you will erase any stored codes. After you retrieve and record the code(s), disconnect the ECU fuse, or one of the battery cables to clear the ECU of codes. Then drive the vehicle and see if the code(s) come back (retest), and write them down. If you have presets in your radio when you disconnect the battery they will be lost. Also some radios require a code to be entered after the battery cable is disconnected. This is a theft deterrent feature of many newer type car stereos/radios. If you don't want to erase the stereo presets then find the ECU fuse either in the fuse panel under the drivers dash, or out under the engine hood in the engine compartment.
You can look up the probable problems relating to the diagnostic trouble codes you receive below.
1990 & 1991 Honda Accord Diagnostic Trouble Codes
1 . Oxygen Sensor............................................ ..............Problem in 02 sensor circuit
2 . ECU............................................... ............................No signal to ECU
3 . MAP Sensor .................................................. ..........Electrical problem in MAP sensor
4 . Crank Angle Sensor (CRANK)...............................Open or shorted signal circuit
5 . MAP Sensor .................................................. ..........Open or shorted signal circuit
6 . Coolant Temperature Sensor..................................Open or shorted signal circuit
7 . Throttle Angle Sensor .............................................Open or shorted signal circuit
9 . Crank Angle Sensor (CYL)..................................... Open or shorted signal circuit
10. Intake Air Temperature ........................................ Problem with Sensor
12. EGR System .................................................. ........ No EGR action
13. Atmospheric Pressure (PA) ................................... Problem with PA circuit
14. Electronic Air Control Valve (EAVC) ................... Electronic air control valve
15 . Ignition Output Signal ........................................... Electrical problem in signal circuit
16 . Fuel Injector .................................................. ........ Problem in fuel injector circuit
17. Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) ..................................Open or shorted signal circuit
20 . Electrical Load Detector ....................Problem with electrical load detector circuit
30 . A/T FI Signal (A)...Problem in automatic transmission control unit and ECU circuit
31. A/T FI Signal (B)... Problem in automatic transmission control unit and ECU circuit
41 . Oxygen Sensor Heater........................... Problem with 02 sensor circuit
43. Fuel Supply system ................................ Problem with 02 sensor circuit or fuel system
(1) If codes other than the above are indicated, repeat self-diagnosis. If code (s) reappear, substitute a known good ECU and recheck codes. If code (s) clear, replace ECU.
(2) Check to make sure that the check engine light comes on for 2 seconds when the key is turned to the run (on) position.
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Just disconnecting the negative battery cable will not reset a CEL. You must disconnect the negative battery cable and pull the radio fuse. Its a 7.5 amp fuse. This is the ECU backup power fuse.
I usually reset my codes the first time they happen unless something else is noticed with it. Then if it comes back, I will check it.
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I'm not questioning your knowledge, but I will tell you from experience, that I have cleared ECU codes by just disconnecting the neg. terminal on the battery. Another easy way to do it is to disconnect the poss. cable that goes from the battery to the underhood fusebox and just use a 10mm or phillips head screw driver and undo it at the fuse box. Both ways have cleared codes for me before!Originally posted by hype8912
Just disconnecting the negative battery cable will not reset a CEL. You must disconnect the negative battery cable and pull the radio fuse. Its a 7.5 amp fuse. This is the ECU backup power fuse.
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i already had it in FAQ........its posted but i didnt index it right.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...t=check+engineWhat makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
Hater
I love nooBs...They make me look good
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