Bad Throttle Position Sensor???

[tweeaks]

After I got my H22 in my car The only CEL i've been getting is the TPS. If the light comes on does it mean that the TPS is bad, or I just need to tune it? I bought a multimeter, but am unsure which setting to put it on. I tried all of the settings, but didn't come up with anything. If it is bad, does anyone know where to get one from besides Honda?
Thanks.

[PRIMOCB7]

give this a try:

Setting the TPS

[F22-GURU]

Try This:

Checking Supply Voltage (5V Ref) to TPS

Using a 10 M/Ohm Auto Sensing Multimeter on 'Voltage'

Disconnect the 3 Pin TPS Harness Connector from the TPS.
Connect Black Lead to the Outer (No 1) Green/White Wire.
Connect Red Lead th the Outer (No 3) Yellow/White Wire.
You should get a reading of approx 5.0 Volts.
That means the ECU is supplying the correct reference voltage.
(If not, find out why. Check for continuity from TPS Harness to ECU Connector.)

Check TPS Potentiometer.

Using a 10 M/Ohm Auto Sensing Multimeter on 'Ohms'

Connect Red Lead to the Centre (No2) TPS Terminal.
Connect Black Lead to the Outer (No1) TPS Terminal.
With the Throttle Fully Closed you should get a resistance below 1000 Ohms. (If not the Throttle Stop Screw may be out of adjustment. Back it off & recheck.)
Slowly open the Throttle Blade to Full Throttle and check the resistance.
You should notice a distinct change in resistance straight away. You should be getting a reading between 3000 & 6500 Ohms. (If not, replace the TPS)

Don't forget to remove the Back Up Fuse to erase the codes.

[tweeaks]

Thanks guys, the only problem is that my multimeter doesn't have the 10. The lowest setting I think is 20 then it goes up to 100 and alot of other numbers, but no ten....I don't have it with me right now to see, but I remembered someone saying set it to ten and it not haveing that setting. So even if the TPS is good it will still throw a CEL if it's not tuned? Because I have used two different TPSs and both throw the code. Thanks alot guys.

[F22-GURU]

...So even if the TPS is good it will still throw a CEL if it's not tuned? Because I have used two different TPSs and both throw the code. Thanks alot guys.

Now That's a different story.

Remember the comments in my reply

"With the Throttle Fully Closed you should get a resistance below 1000 Ohms.(If not the Throttle Stop Screw may be out of adjustment. Back it off & recheck.)".

...and

"That means the ECU is supplying the correct reference voltage.
(If not, find out why. Check for continuity from TPS Harness to ECU Connector.)"

What Ohms reading are you getting at closed throttle.
If you are getting a correct reading of <1000 Ohms when the throttle is closed then the Throttle Stop maybe adjusted to specs.
Follow the link in PRIMOCB7's reply to make sure it is adjusted correctly.
If the Ohms are not <1000 Ohms. Reset the Throttle Blade Stop to Specs and recheck.

After all that if it's still throwing a Code 7 then recheck the Wiring Harness. Compare the Wiring Diagrams for a H22A ECU & F22A ECU. Make sure the Wiring & Pin Designations are the same.
I know when you do the swap you have to Add & Re-Wire a few Terminals etc. Make Sure another sensor, like the EGR Position Sensor Output Signal Wire hasn't been tapped directly into the TPS Output Signal Wire @ ECU - C11 instead of ECU - C12.
Because if the EGR Position Sensor Fails, due to clogging, and it is tapped directly into the TPS Wire the ECU could be fooled into thinking it's the TPS by setting a Code 7.
I know this may sound confusing but it can happen. This is the reason for checking correct harness continuity from each ECU Terminal to each Sensor Terminal.

Now that I've confused the hell out of you let me know how you go.

Cheers
Geoff

[tweeaks]

Now That's a different story.

Remember the comments in my reply

"With the Throttle Fully Closed you should get a resistance below 1000 Ohms.(If not the Throttle Stop Screw may be out of adjustment. Back it off & recheck.)".

...and

"That means the ECU is supplying the correct reference voltage.
(If not, find out why. Check for continuity from TPS Harness to ECU Connector.)"

What Ohms reading are you getting at closed throttle.
If you are getting a correct reading of <1000 Ohms when the throttle is closed then the Throttle Stop maybe adjusted to specs.
Follow the link in PRIMOCB7's reply to make sure it is adjusted correctly.
If the Ohms are not <1000 Ohms. Reset the Throttle Blade Stop to Specs and recheck.

After all that if it's still throwing a Code 7 then recheck the Wiring Harness. Compare the Wiring Diagrams for a H22A ECU & F22A ECU. Make sure the Wiring & Pin Designations are the same.
I know when you do the swap you have to Add & Re-Wire a few Terminals etc. Make Sure another sensor, like the EGR Position Sensor Output Signal Wire hasn't been tapped directly into the TPS Output Signal Wire @ ECU - C11 instead of ECU - C12.
Because if the EGR Position Sensor Fails, due to clogging, and it is tapped directly into the TPS Wire the ECU could be fooled into thinking it's the TPS by setting a Code 7.
I know this may sound confusing but it can happen. This is the reason for checking correct harness continuity from each ECU Terminal to each Sensor Terminal.

Now that I've confused the hell out of you let me know how you go.

Cheers
Geoff

I guess the problem I am having is I don't know how to read the multimeter.....Or how to use it. I am unsure which setting it needs to be on to get the correct readings....I have a section for OHM settings, but none of them read 1000. they are 20M, 2000K, 20K, 2000, 200, and a weird looking line.... My Multimeter has resistance to 20M(then like an upside down horseshoe) Is this why I am not getting the correct reading? I am also unsure how to check the continuity, is something I would do with this multimeter?

[F22-GURU]

This is why it is best to have an Auto-Sensing Multimeter. Make sure the Multimeter has a minimum 10 Mega Ohm Impedance. Otherwise you can damage the ECU circuits.
Set it to "20K" on Ohms Scale, this will allow you to get a reading from 0.00 Ohms to 20000.00 Ohms.
To check continuity you need to put the red lead on one end of the circuits wire and the black lead on the other end.
If you have continuity the Multimeter will go from 'Open' to '0.000'.
Some multimeter's also have a selection for Sound Alert @ continuity, which will continually Beeeeeeep as well when you have Continuity. That way you don't have to be looking at the screen.
It can be difficult to locate each end of the circuit as some have different coloured wires at each end. This is why it is critical to have access to a Workshop Manual with Wiring Diagrams, and also have a clear knowledge of how to read a Wiring Diagram.
First of all you have to make sure the MultiMeter Leads are plugged into the right connections on the meter. They are usually colour coded and have markings next to the hole.
The easiest way to find out if they are connected correctly is to touch both metal ends of the leads together and you should see the reading change or you should hear the beeeeeep!!.
Actually if you hold each lead in separate hands you should notice a small fluctuating Ohms reading on the meter. This will show that you have an electrical charge going through your body.
That is why you should not be touching the metal ends when doing resistance checks.
If you don't feel confident in doing the circuit testing see if you can get an Auto Electrician to help you. I'm sorry I can't help you any further with the testing process.

[tweeaks]

Allright I finally had enough time to mess around with the TPS again.

With the multimeter set to 20K on the OHMs settings I got a reading of between 0.29 and 0.32 The mode was 0.30 These readings were with the car off. Whenever the car was turned on the reading always went to 1_. (the _ stands for a blank.) No matter what RPMs I was at or how much I adjusted the TPS the reading stayed at 1_.

I tested two different TPS and they both gave me the same readings. So which terminals on the ECU are for the TPS so I can check the continuity on those. While checking continuity which setting should I have my multimeter on?

Thanks you've been a great help.

[Ilikebigbutts]

tweaks i'm having a bad tps prob to.I tried adjusting it w/ my multimeter but the voltage won't go over .32V so i said screw it just bought one off ebay.

What i wanted to ask you is, what are the symptoms you are getting?

Heres mine and i would like to compare...

When car is cold:

pretty smooth idle considering the bad tps
when i'm driving it feels like its lagging

When warmed up:

engine won't rev over 5200<---this is my biggest worry, does tps have to do anything with this?only tried going over 5200ish once and it felt like it hit revlimiter.

Won't hold idle

feels like its bogging when giving gas, smooth as hell when my foot aint on the gas.

So what do you think?i'm getting code 7 so for sure it the tps, but i would like to know your symptoms...

BTW i goyt an f22b dohc, not the h22

ILBB

[tweeaks]

Yeah same symptoms as you except for the not reving over 5200 part. Did the ebay TPS work out and fix your problems? Anything under ~5K RPMs bogs. This isn't all the time, just every once in a while.

[Ilikebigbutts]

the ebay tps is still in the mail, it should be here in 3 days.I'm really skeptical about the 5k "redline" thing though,but i guess i'll eliminate the tps and work ou the rest of the kinks...

ILBB