Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Shaking bad during acceleration and idle.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Shaking bad during acceleration and idle.

    i noticed this 2days ago when i was idling. it just started to feel like she was choking or something,then suddenly she just started shaking hard. and its been that way since. looking under the hood i can literally see the engine shaking in its place. stepping on gas i can feel the car shaking really hard as its trying to pull. feels like she cant pick up that hard either. this shaking is pretty hard and at first i suspected i lost a front motor mount since the rear went out and is leaving the weight-distribution uneven? im just guessing,and i have no time to take it to a mechanic yet either. so THIS IS WHY I ASK YOU GUYS FIRST before i do take her in. atleast i'll know something before i step in there. btw this isnt MY CB7,this is a different one incase ya wonder. things to know: none of the belts have been serviced. overdue for a tune-up.


    i really do suspect the motor mounts to be the problem here,but also the car does have those bad conditioned belts and a tune-up it never got. so IF thats relevant let me know,but i hope its something easy like a mount. basically can a blown front,left,or right motor mount cause the car to act like this? yes i've done a search and went through the 2pages of it. reading mostly about mounts like i suspected,but i posted this in HOPE of finding OTHER things i might need to check out. 90ex automatic

    #2
    yeah, check the plugs, rotor and all necessary tune up items first. You can tell if it is your motor mounts simply by looking at them. In order for your engine to rock that violently your front torque mount or rear mount would be completely gone. So check those. Are you throwing a cel? What RPM does the car idle at? If you have a low idle which is causing the engine to choke out, then it could be one of the few sensors on the intake manifold. Hell, it could even be a clogged catalytic converter. But check the obvious first.

    Comment


      #3
      Well, to check the spark plugs/wires: while the engine is running, disconnect one spark plug wire, and if the idle doesn't change, that means its the culprit. Plug the wire back in, and do it on all 4 cylinders. Next, check easy stuff like distributor cap/rotor. If that doesn't do it for you, move on to fuel injectors. Like the spark plug wires, disconnect one injector at a time. If the idle doesn't change, that would be the culprit. Only disconnect one injector at a time. Hope this helps.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by wrichards2005
        Well, to check the spark plugs/wires: while the engine is running, disconnect one spark plug wire, and if the idle doesn't change, that means its the culprit. Plug the wire back in, and do it on all 4 cylinders. Next, check easy stuff like distributor cap/rotor. If that doesn't do it for you, move on to fuel injectors. Like the spark plug wires, disconnect one injector at a time. If the idle doesn't change, that would be the culprit. Only disconnect one injector at a time. Hope this helps.
        If he's missing a cylinder right now, disconnecting the corresponding spark plug wire or injector isn't gonna help him find out which of the two it is.

        Comment


          #5
          it COULD be a mount but it would be smart to do a tune up first just go to kragen or whatever and get some plugs wires cap and rotor change em and them start it back aup and see whats wrong.

          Hey check us out www.2camcrew.com

          Comment


            #6
            i would INSPECT your mounts first.


            i dropped a couple hundred into my car tuning it up the last couple days (im fairly broke) and then i looked down and my rear mount was just bouncing away.

            although the tune up made it run very good

            Comment


              #7
              how do i inspect the mounts? i cant tell by visually looking cause they seem to not look different. they arent shaking/rattling/moving around at all. i dont see any cracks. i've inspected the driver-side mount and the front mount visually. the rear and passenger i cant see clearly enough to say i've fully looked it over.

              Comment


                #8
                i looked at my rear mount a hundred times or more and it looked ok, until i parked where the sun was shining right at it.

                the whole thing jumps up and down.

                if you inspect them and nothing shows up then i would look for vacuum leaks/problems or do a tune up. here is a list of what i did that helped my idle/shakiness

                new pcv valve/hose
                clean IACV (take it off and spray carb/tb cleaner in it till its nice and shiny)
                clean TB with tb cleaner as well.
                open the FITV cap and make sure that the yellow thing is skrewed down snug (be careful adjusting it)
                replace dizzy cap/rotor/spark plug wires/spark plugs.
                valve adjustment (this helped the most)
                make sure your throttle cable isnt too tight and causing the plate to open a little, this acts just like a vacuum leak

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by DoctorCipher
                  If he's missing a cylinder right now, disconnecting the corresponding spark plug wire or injector isn't gonna help him find out which of the two it is.
                  It will if you swap a good lead to the suspected bad cylinder!! If it still misses then it could be the injector. If the misfire swaps to the other cylinder then it's the lead. Simple!!!

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X