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car sputters in the 3000 to 5000 range

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    car sputters in the 3000 to 5000 range

    hey guys the car has been acting funny recently.after driving for about 45 minutes the car starts to sputter in the 3000 to 5000 range.and it only does it after driving it for a while not when its cold.could it be a bad thermostat.

    MRThttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=84102 93se h22/t2t4

    #2
    Yes & No!!

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      #3
      like misfiring? does the tach bounce all over the place and feel loss of power?
      I <3 G60.

      0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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        #4
        it does not bounce all over the tach.just after driving for a while when i get on the highway the car sputters with loss of power.its like a surge of boost but then drops and goes up as long as i keep the foot on the gas.

        MRThttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=84102 93se h22/t2t4

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          #5
          i'll get back to you guys later on tonight when i'am at work

          MRThttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=84102 93se h22/t2t4

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            #6
            hmmm I say lack of spark whens the last time your ride has gotten a tuneup ?

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              #7
              Originally posted by h22sparkle
              hmmm I say lack of spark whens the last time your ride has gotten a tuneup ?

              i'd say about 7 months ago.

              MRThttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=84102 93se h22/t2t4

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                #8
                Maybe its like mine, once its warmed up it sputters to accelerate. It sounds like its pinging. Probably just needs a tune up...

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                  #9
                  if it's pinging, roll back the dizzy a few degrees.
                  2DAO (2 Door Accord Owner)
                  JDM H22 DOHC 200/161 2.2L
                  My members ride: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=20385

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                    #10
                    I suggest you go out and buy some specialist testing equipment like I did.
                    Here are just a few examples in my Diagnostic Equipment List.
                    Battery Load CCA Tester - $495
                    Battery Charger - $180
                    Battery Booster Pack - $150
                    ABW Auto-Sensing Multimeter - $400
                    Basic Timing Light - $300
                    Snap-On Scanner Kit - $3300
                    OTC Digital EFI/EMS Tester - $1100
                    ABW Computer-Safe Test Light - $40
                    Various Auto Electrical & EFI/EMS Workshop Manuals - $800+

                    Then you shouldn't have much trouble finding what's wrong.

                    Now I'm going to sound like a Broken Record.

                    CHECK THE BATTERY VOLTAGE
                    CHECK THE ALTERNATOR CHARGE RATE
                    CHECK THE ECU GROUND @ THE THERMO HOUSING.
                    CHECK ALL OTHER GROUNDS FOR POOR CONTACT.
                    CHECK FUSES
                    CHECK VACUUM
                    CHECK FUEL PRESSURE

                    Do all this before any further checking or testing. If they are all OK then start looking elsewhere.

                    There are only FIVE things you need to completely diagnose an Engine Running Problem properly.

                    1. AN AUTO-SENSING MULTIMETER.
                    2. A VACCUM GAUGE.
                    3. A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE.
                    4. A GOOD RANGE WORKSHOP MANUALS.
                    5. AN FAIR KNOWLEDGE OF HOW THE CAR WORKS.

                    If you've got all those then you should be able to fix the problem.

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                      #11
                      A simple timing light? 300 dollas?

                      Also, its only pinging when its fully warmed up, could that still be timing related?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Here you go. Thanks to "Modern Automotive Technology" one of my highschool auto shop books.

                        Loss of power:
                        Dirty or incorrectyly gapped spark plugs.
                        Dirt or water in the fuel system.
                        Faulty fuel pump.
                        Incorrect valve timing.
                        Blown cylinder head gasket
                        Low compression
                        Burned, warped, or pitted valves
                        Restricted exhaust system
                        Faulty ignition cable
                        Faulty coil.

                        Now if you have a knock, (which i dunno but some of these people have been throwing it around) and it only occurs after warm-up, it is most likely Rod-bearing knock. (connecting rod that is)

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                          #13
                          (guru) i don't have most of those tools,i think it could be the timing since the dizzy was loose.don't know how it got loose but i'am going to take the car to a shop i know and i will update you guy's as soon as posible.

                          MRThttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=84102 93se h22/t2t4

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by wrichards2005
                            A simple timing light? 300 dollas?
                            Like I said, Things in Australia cost an Arm & a Leg. After Import Duties, Stamp Duties, a dollop of Goolie Strangling Tax, a shit Exchange rate and a quick fuck up the arse, we pay about 2-3 times as much for tools as you do in The States. . Little Johnny "Bonsai" Howard is too far up George Dubya's arse to do anything about it.

                            BTW: I mainly have Snap On or ABW Tools.

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