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    car problem

    ok here my story last night i look into my spark plug cylinders to see if oil was in there, when i pulled the spark plug wires out the metal inside the wires stayed on the spark plug but the wire came out, so i pushed the spark plug wire back into the connector, so i thought everthing was ok, so i started the car everything was fine, i drove to the store but i notice my lights were dimmer then normal then when i got to the store i heard the muffler backfire. so i went into the store came out, used my remote start to start the car it can on then went off then came on then went off and so on. so i just start the car with the key it runs but 2 mins later all power went out, so i changed the plugs and wires, then tried to start the car but the battery was dead, so i go a jump start nice and ran nice for like 2mins then dead. so we jumped it about 6 times then car would run for a few mins then backfire lights would dim then die. i was told by 4 ppl the alternator and by one maybe then main relay( use)

    also b4 if i played the cd player with the car off for more then 5 mins car would not start so what u guys think

    #2
    alternator. you were running on just the battery, hence the dim lights... and it starts to backfire at some point too... once the battery finally died, it couldnt recharge itself like you said.

    did your battery light on the dashboard come on at all?

    take it out and get it tested at autozone. highly likely that its bad, unless its some of the wiring or grounds that are bad. if it IS bad, youre halfway done since its out already. if it tests good, youll know that its the wiring... check the plug and wire that go to it, an follow them checking for breaks in the wire. also check the heavy positive and negative cables around the battery and the ground points they connect to.
    Last edited by cp[mike]; 03-07-2006, 03:13 PM.


    - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
    - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
    - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
    Current cars:
    - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
    - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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      #3
      yea sounds like your alt, to me too. does your battery lighjt stay on constant? or just once and awhile?

      Comment


        #4
        no the battery light neva came on, but the speedo was actin weird and the oil started blinking abs light came on, i take it that those r from the lost of power, b/c when i started the car after a jump they went away and i think the speedo was workin.

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          #5
          you should be able to test the alternator by taking off one of the connections to the battery...i want to say is the positive cable...but ask someone else first

          I ♥/Miss My Coupe

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by civic_90_08
            you should be able to test the alternator by taking off one of the connections to the battery...i want to say is the positive cable...but ask someone else first
            definately not a recommended method of testing the alternator, if you want more information about why, run a search.


            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
            Current cars:
            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by cp[mike]
              definately not a recommended method of testing the alternator, if you want more information about why, run a search.
              i was just saying because on my 87 accord hatch...that how we tested that SOB...she still runs too.

              I ♥/Miss My Coupe

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by civic_90_08
                i was just saying because on my 87 accord hatch...that how we tested that SOB...she still runs too.
                honestly, ive tested alternators using that method and never had a problem... but after reading about it, whether its true that it can blow the rectifiers or not, i dont feel its worth the risk...


                - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                Current cars:
                - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

                Comment


                  #9
                  just bust out the multimeter, not hard. check and make sure your getting around 14 volts.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    so u guys think its the alternator, b/c when i get a jump it runs fine till the power goes out,

                    im goin to try to get it out how much of a trouble is it to get out?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      save yourself any work and have autobone do an in-car test in their parking lot. no muss-no fuss.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        My guess is battery.... You got a volt/ohm meter?
                        1992 Accord LX - SOLD

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Replace your battery first. If it's completely dead, then it's not holding a charge. I would shell out the $160 for a deep cycle Optima Yellotop. If it turns out that it's your alternator, you won't kill another battery! The Optima can be completely drained and still be recharged.

                          If it IS your alternator, you'll know once the battery is changed. If the car starts to die after some time driving, then the alternator isn't charging the battery.

                          Of course, using a multimeter to test them both IS a good idea Something WILL need to be replaced though.






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                            #14
                            well i no its not the battery b/c my lights and stuff work and its just when i start the car it doesnt stay on long. i got a optima red top by the way

                            Comment


                              #15
                              ok it was the alternator, i think it was goin bad for awhile b/c now when i do remote start it starts right up and also when i play the music with the car off, the car starts rather then die out

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