I have an AT 93 LX. Post TPS installation to resolve Code 15, I had a No-Start problem. When i had the TB removed to take off the old TPS, i sprayed a little....ok alot of carburetor cleaner in the IM to clean what i can see in the IM. Post TPS install, i decided to tackle my inner dizzy seal to fix the oil leak too.
Reconnected ICM wires back on, i tried to start the car and it didn't start. I re-opened the dizzy and inspected the wires to the ICM. Found that the Black/Yellow and Green was crossed, which could be the cause of the No-Start, along with Carb Cleaner in the IM. lol. I know..rookie move about the carb cleaner. Since the wires were crossed, I thought I had fried the ICM or the Ignition Coil. ICM tested good. Ignition Coil gave me different resistance.
below is what showed on my Multimeter with disconnected Coil:
A to C: .3 to .4 (totally off from .6 to .9)
A to 2nd Winding Terminal: 17s or 18s (good reading from 14 to 22K)
B to D: 2.20 (totally off from 19 to 25K)
I bought a new Ignition Coil from Autozone and the new coil showed the same resistance readings as above.
Here is my questions:
How can my original and new Ignition Coil be reading the same yet different than the normal reading, and still providing ignition?
Why is my car still running like advertised?
Low resistance for my Ignition Coil cause other problems like Idle Surge (surges ONLY when there is a electrical load like from the AC. No vacuum leak for sure)
Should i buy another Ignition Coil?
Should i test one from the JY?
Am I using the Multimeter wrong? I believe i am using the multimeter correctly because i touched what i was supposed to A to C, A to winding terminal, etc.
my car is running. I will have to drive it on a long distance to see if my Code 15 went away with new TPS.
Reconnected ICM wires back on, i tried to start the car and it didn't start. I re-opened the dizzy and inspected the wires to the ICM. Found that the Black/Yellow and Green was crossed, which could be the cause of the No-Start, along with Carb Cleaner in the IM. lol. I know..rookie move about the carb cleaner. Since the wires were crossed, I thought I had fried the ICM or the Ignition Coil. ICM tested good. Ignition Coil gave me different resistance.
below is what showed on my Multimeter with disconnected Coil:
A to C: .3 to .4 (totally off from .6 to .9)
A to 2nd Winding Terminal: 17s or 18s (good reading from 14 to 22K)
B to D: 2.20 (totally off from 19 to 25K)
I bought a new Ignition Coil from Autozone and the new coil showed the same resistance readings as above.
Here is my questions:
How can my original and new Ignition Coil be reading the same yet different than the normal reading, and still providing ignition?
Why is my car still running like advertised?
Low resistance for my Ignition Coil cause other problems like Idle Surge (surges ONLY when there is a electrical load like from the AC. No vacuum leak for sure)
Should i buy another Ignition Coil?
Should i test one from the JY?
Am I using the Multimeter wrong? I believe i am using the multimeter correctly because i touched what i was supposed to A to C, A to winding terminal, etc.
my car is running. I will have to drive it on a long distance to see if my Code 15 went away with new TPS.