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**HondaFan81** · 03-31-2004, 12:19 PM

Yea, same shit is happening to a friend of mine with a 92 Accord LX as well, only it has ~ 254K miles. He has replaced the igniter though already..so he says. He isn't much into Hondas, but he described it as a chip-like thing under distributor cap. His car does the dry crank, just seems like it won't spark to have engine take over. He had the dist. cap & rotor replaced & ignition switch wiring & wires are in good condition. So I'm wondering if it's the ignition coil or ECU. I happened to have a spare ECU for him if he needs it, if it comes to that. I don't believe it to be the starter motor because when it starts up, it starts like normal & it really cranks over with power...not like it's dying. Besides, when car is in drive mode/running down road.....starter is not an issue to why it just cuts out....this is why I believe it's electrically ignition based.

I have a 87 Sable wagon with similar scenario only it doesn't cut out while it's driving. It will start fine when cold, but after completely warmed up & engine turned off...when you come back to start it after 10-20 min it will not start...have to wait for it to completely cool down to start it successfully...but when it starts, starts like normal. On this car I'm thinking it's the ignition module (igniter in Hondas) or this IMS sensor in the distributor shaft assy. I've replaced the ignition coil, dist. cap & rotor, has good plugs & wires replaced not long ago.

I'll be sure to post back if I find out any more on this...sorry if it don't help much. Please post up if you find out what it is as well. If you have any questions let me know, I have a Helms & could look it up for you.

Post back with what ignition system related components you've recently replaced or know to be in good condition so we can eliminate some possibilites.

**nineteeaccord** · 03-31-2004, 01:52 PM

does it shake before it cuts off, if it does change your distribor, thats was happen to me and i changed mine now ies running fine, also check to see if oil is on ya spark plugs, that can cause it to cut off too

**alb_accord** · 03-31-2004, 02:25 PM

well dude u got to check and make sure that is the egnition swich. when u car don't start again go and check if u got spark.(distributor) check if there is oil in the spark plugs. if u have the tools with u check the fuel line and see if fuel comes to the engine. then after that u might wanna check the egnition swich(the electrical part of it.) it costs like $89 at the honda dealer. if u buy it u can't return it. u might wanna check for one in a junk jard or whatever. check for a car with low miles etc. if it's like$20 buy it. if it's more then go and buy a brand new one at the dealer. most shop will ask u $250 to fix that. lol fuck that motherfuckers. lol good luck man

**2clean4uaccord** · 03-31-2004, 02:32 PM

no it dosent shake at all, no prior warning, nothing. I feels exactly like your turning the key off and thats it. After that its dead in the water.

Parts that are replaced on the ignition system. Coil is still stock but works perfectly, I checked the Ohms yesterday in accordance with the Haynes manual listings, on all accounts the connections all fell within specs so where good there. The ignitor is still the stock one with 160K miles on it as of right now. Rotor and Cap are basically brand new replaced about 10K miles ago and still look to be in great condidtion. Coil wire and Spark plug wires are Jacobs 8.5mm and are in great condition. I also checked all the connections to the distributor and seem still very good. Could it be the crank position sensor, those dont normally go out do they?

I just ordered a Bosch (OEM) replacement from the carpartsbin.com just a few hours ago, im desparate at this point since my car is totally down right now and really need a ride to school and work so hopefully this is it. I strongly believe it to be so.

**HondaFan81** · 03-31-2004, 05:38 PM

1) What brand dist. cap & rotor did you use? Honda mechanics have told me to get Honda OEM for these only because parts from Autozone are not as high quality for Honda engines which rev higher in general, so they wear faster. Did you check the inside of your dist. cap & it's contact points & condition of rotor tip?

2) It may very well be the igniter, there is a test for that as well, is it listed in the Haynes? If not, let me know...I can type the Helms test procedure for you.

3) It could be your ECU, but this supposedly doesn't happen often...I'd leave this on back burner unless everything else checks out fine. If it comes down to it, I can help you out here as well....just let me know if you get to this point

4) When you put your ignition switch in ON position, do you hear the whiiiirrr noise of your fuel pump? I doubt it's your injectors, they'd all have to fail at same time to create symptoms u mentioned, clogged fuel filter will lower fuel psi & would prolly be more of an issue in first starting car, could be fuel pump going bad though...and randomly goes on & off....maybe main relay related.

5) Ignition switch (wiring portion) is possibility....but with my experience I had problems in starting the car (took more than one turn of key) when it went bad on me and one day it just would not start at all.

6) There is a resistor box on right side of engine bay for your fuel injectors and I wonder if this goes bad, it would most likely prevent your injectors from working all at once...or connections to this box are bad.

**Dutchaccord** · 03-31-2004, 05:40 PM

Main relay............................................. ................

resolder it or replace it.

my 0.2

Stefan

**HondaFan81** · 03-31-2004, 05:47 PM

So that is all that comes to my mind in accordance with the condition of your current ignition system, some are far fetched but could be a prob nonetheless. Anyways, if I had to pick one, I'd say the igniter like you previously stated...but do the check first before buying it.

igniter unit kit $72

Again, let me know if you need the check procedure.

**2clean4uaccord** · 03-31-2004, 06:19 PM

1) What brand dist. cap & rotor did you use? Yes it all looks just the slightest bit used but still in very good condition. The Rotor says Made in Japan and thats the one i got at Advantage Auto as well as the cap.

2) It may very well be the igniter, there is a test for that as well... Yea thats the only thing that i didnt do so far. Since then I have allready pulled the Distributor and started cleaning it up, I could hook it back up and do the Haynes check, which i do have. I guess ill do that tomorrow since I have to go to work now and dont have enough time.

3) It could be your ECU, but this supposedly doesn't happen often...I'd leave this on back burner unless everything else checks out fine. If it comes down to it, I can help you out here as well....just let me know if you get to this point

God i Hope not

4) When you put your ignition switch in ON position, do you hear the whiiiirrr noise of your fuel pump? YES and YES all good I replaced the fuel filter about 15K ago and I use chevron and Exxon gas which isnt low quality. So thats not the problem, when it runs it runs quite strong and no hesitation, missing or anything, to suggest a fuel starvation problem, just purrs perfectly.

5) Ignition switch (wiring portion) is possibility....but with my experience I had problems in starting the car (took more than one turn of key) when it went bad on me and one day it just would not start at all.
Ok on this one you mean if I turn the key nothing happens right. Because im not having that problem at all.

6) There is a resistor box on right side of engine bay for your fuel injectors and I wonder if this goes bad, it would most likely prevent your injectors from working all at once...or connections to this box are bad.
Never heard of this going bad but I should check it also thanks for your help Ill let you guys know on friday when my new resistor comes in and i strap that baby in. It will fire up!!!

**HondaFan81** · 03-31-2004, 06:27 PM

Your quotes:

"Ok on this one you mean if I turn the key nothing happens right. Because im not having that problem at all."

Yes, I meant this. Guess it rules that out pretty much.

________________________________________________
"Never heard of this going bad but I should check it also thanks for your help Ill let you guys know on friday when my new resistor comes in and i strap that baby in. It will fire up!!!"

What resistor you mean? If you're implying getting a new resistor box...I say hold back on that, first check it. Just trying to help you save $$
_________________________________________________

check ur main relay connections & relay itself also

**2clean4uaccord** · 04-01-2004, 03:41 AM

O shit major Typo I meant Ignition "Ignitor", not Resistor. WTF was I thinking !? The Ignitor will be here on friday.

Damn it hurts not having a my baby guys seriously, im stuck at home playing X-Box, its just not the same without her.

**2clean4uaccord** · 04-02-2004, 04:17 PM

SHE IS ALIVEEEEE!!! The Ignitor came in a day early yesterday, slaped it in and first crank, back on line. The only problem that makes me a bit unsettled is that the connectors/wires that connect to the male portions of the ignitor connector, you know the spade part. The wires are so dry rotted/ heated up that the insulators over the wires are extreamly stiff and some of it started to come off exposing the bare copper wire inside!! I was like WTF now im going to need a new wiring harness or a new distributor, because honda probably dosent just sell the wire harness to the distrubutor. Fuck! I was being extreamly care full not to bend the wires any more than absolutely necessary but still some of the insulation came off while disconnecting and reconnecting. So hope fully the connectors will continue to make good contact with the new ignitors spades or else it will seem to have the same problem again.

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OK need recommendations on whats up, car keeps dying---

OK need recommendations on whats up, car keeps dying---

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