my powersteering does no work on my car and when you start the car it squels really loud so what do i have to do to remove the power streering assembly. i took off the belt and the pump , but do i need to do anything else or is that it.
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my powerstreering doesn't work anyway and the squealing is from the pump not the belt so instead of fixing it i will just take it off to gain a little space plus it doesn't matter if i take it off beacuase i've lived without powersteering for 2 years and i like it better with out because i feel like i'm more in control of the car.kyle turner
[img]june21004[img]
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Do not run the steering rack dry (with no fluid). Honda steering racks do not like that at all from what I hear.
Keep it as is (running without the belt) and you should be fine.
you can loop the power steering lines and keep fluid in the rack, but I'm not quite sure how to do that. I know it can be done and I think there's a how to over at honda-tech or superhonda. may even be one here in the DIY section.
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i got a used, but perfectly working ps pump on ebay for like $30. not worth the small increase in horsepower in my opinion. the ps works so well on these cars. i would bet you are used to your car without ps, but if you put a dif't pump in that worked you would wonder what you did without it. worth a try for thirty bucks don't you think?
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Well it depends on how much he values space. He said himself that he likes the space so I doubt he'll want to put it back in. Oh yeah, to get that bracket off, you have to remove the alternator and alternator bracket first.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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this is how i did my power steering removal. i know alot of people reroute there lines or just take out the pump and thats all. well what i did is for the two lines that go to the tranny/vss from the rack i use the fittings from the rack and some brake line; reflared one end, bent the line to get where it needs to be, reflare the other end, mount it and your done. it clears the cover very well. so now all you have to do is get a "tee" fitting for return and feed line and a remote resevoir. then your done. i rather have this done so theres fluid in the rack to prolong it more, rather then no fluid. heres the pics of it. enjoy




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I don't know what number to put on it, but it's enough to feel. I've been running with the PS belt removed for the last few weeks, and felt the performance difference immediately. The performance is noticably better across the board, but especially at light throttle openings and light acceleration needing less pedal movement and giving a 'perkier' response.Originally posted by hybrid90accord View Postmaybe 5+ hp
I wasn't expecting a noticable difference in this regard as I removed the belt to get rid of the overly enthusiastic assist (just too light for my taste), not for performance reasons (which didn't occur to me until I noticed the improvement). So, I can't see it being a placebo affect.
Fuel economy also seems noticably improved, though I haven't actually checked this in a meaningful way.
Note that all I've done is remove the belt, I haven't rerouted any lines or removed anything else. I like the idea of being able to re-install the belt if I ever need to for whatever reason. In theory, not 'looping' the lines should result in 'reverse pumping' resistance from the rack piston, but in reality this doesn't happen (at least with my car).
If you can jack both front wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel quickly in each direction (engine off) without feeling hydraulic resistance, then you don't really need to mess with the hydraulic lines.Regards from Oz,
John.
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