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    Trouble with CV axles

    My F22 is ready to be pulled, the only thing that is stopping me is the axles. I've already removed the damper fork, 36mm axle nut, lower balljoint cotter pin, loosened the castle nut, put the stud on a jack and pounded the crap out of the lower control arm (pounded where the damper fork attaches to the LCA because theres not room on the LCA where it attaches to the balljoint it's like and inch thick). It won't even budge at all, i've tried the 2 jaw puller nothing (thing is a POS and most of the time won't even stay still). I was thinking is it possible to just skip pulling the lower control arm from the balljoint and just seperate the lower control arm from the car itself? Or is there any other way to get the CV axles out!?
    My H22A SWAP JOURNAL

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    #2
    http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

    try that. and watch the vid.

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      #3
      Originally posted by k-mart
      OMG IT WORKED!!! Your the man k-mart! New problem the castle nut is spinning along with the stud...1 step forward 2 steps back.
      My H22A SWAP JOURNAL

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        #4
        Originally posted by TysCb7
        OMG IT WORKED!!! Your the man k-mart! New problem the castle nut is spinning along with the stud...1 step forward 2 steps back.
        good to hear! well, the first part. took me forever to find it! lol.

        gotta replace the ball joint now.

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          #5
          The driver's side ball joint is the only thing kepping me from pulling my engine. Guess I know what I'll be trying this afternoon, thanks for that link
          1993 Prelude S
          F22A1
          custom'ish turbo setup
          180 whp/217 ft-lbs super hot, super humid, super rich, boost falling off at 8psi
          18psi boost spike = BOOM!!!!!
          currently being rebuilt

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            #6
            Originally posted by TysCb7
            OMG IT WORKED!!! Your the man k-mart! New problem the castle nut is spinning along with the stud...1 step forward 2 steps back.
            bumping an old thread, but putting it out there for future reference.

            if this is happening, before replacing the balljoint:

            clean off the balljoint stud and lower control arm completely of any oil/grease. set the joint into the control arm. put a jack under the LCA and jack it upward a bit, and then have somebody stand/put weight on the top of the rotor & caliper. this downward pressure will jam the balljoint into the LCA and usually keep it from spinnign while youre putting the nut back on.


            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
            Current cars:
            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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              #7
              Originally posted by cp[mike]
              bumping an old thread, but putting it out there for future reference.

              if this is happening, before replacing the balljoint:

              clean off the balljoint stud and lower control arm completely of any oil/grease. set the joint into the control arm. put a jack under the LCA and jack it upward a bit, and then have somebody stand/put weight on the top of the rotor & caliper. this downward pressure will jam the balljoint into the LCA and usually keep it from spinnign while youre putting the nut back on.
              When the nut was spinning I was using a wrench on it, I then hit it with an impact and blew it off within a few seconds. I like the idea though, definitely could use it in the future.
              My H22A SWAP JOURNAL

              Members Ride

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