Ignition Timing Help!!!!

[HaulAss247]

Well my problem is almost similar to maple's problem. Only difference is I can't even get the car to start. I need to figure out how I can get my ignition timing close enough to be able to start my car and check and readjust it. I don't know if it could be off by 180 degrees or somethin, and maybe thats my problem since i've seen many other people get there cars started with there igntion timing way off. right now I set the timing by having someone crank the motor while i checked the timing with a timing light. it is set on 17 degrees btdc right now. I know the motor is turnin over much slower then it would if it was idleing but i don't know how else i can set it with out getting the car running first. Or is there anyway i can check to see if my dizzy is 180 degrees off? I KNOW i have fuel and spark and compression for sure i have checked all too many damn times. SOME ONE PLEASE HELP I NEED MY CAR ASAP, and gas prices are killin me driving 2 hours from my apartment every weekend to come work on it
and thanks ahead of time

[d112crzy]

on f22's, the dizzy cannot be installed 180 off, read a haynes, i forgot the reason why.

to get 15bdtc, try to center the dizzy on all points. that should be close enough.

make sure your firing order is correct.

[HaulAss247]

can it be done on the h23? Since thats what i have. I think it is correct I just want to make sure, before i get pissed off trying to get this timing right again if thats was maybe the reason why i could not get the car to start

[d112crzy]

im thinking its the same for all hondas. ive worked on a few hondas, and there is only 1 way that the dizzy will go in.

[HaulAss247]

Car is back running. I have been driving it for liek 2 weeks now. The problem is if I try to accelerate hard it will fall on its face. lol I thought it was my knock sensor since it wasn't wired up and it threw the code for it. So i rewired it and I have no code for it. But the car is still doing the same thing. If i try to give the car more than like 1/4 throttle it bogs down VERY bad and it won't rev anymore until i back off the throttle. The timing is set at exactly 15 degrees BTDC. But i have cams so i dunno if thats the problem, and the idle is acting wierd but i'm pretty sure its because of how my vaccum lines(how they are routed) Any help would be VERY appreciated
thanks

[HondaFan81]

You say you have "cams", if this means some kind of aftermarket camshafts that are performance oriented, that might be why you're having these issues. You need to elaborate on what is your setup exactly, as you might needed tuning and different fuel/ignition maps, etc.

[HaulAss247]

Sorry, The motor ran fine before I pulled it from my other car. And it is running fine now except for the hard studder under hard acceleration and the high idle. And i'm pretty sure the timing was at 17 degrees btdc before so i'm just kinda wondering if myabe that could be a problem thats its at 15 degrees btdc now Or if something else could be causing the problem
Head Portmatched and glassbeaded intake & exhaust ports with head decked 0.0010 and 3 angle valve job
WebCams 620+5 Street regrind cams
P14 ECU chipped by JET Engineering
Centerforce St. 2 Clutch w/ machined flywheel
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
Venom Fuel Pump
Koyo OEM radiator(going to change to aluminum radiator)
160 T-Stat

[HaulAss247]

Anyone out there still have a problem with the knock sensor, even if its not throwing a code for it. Like i said its doing the same thing it did when i the knock sensor wasn't wired up. And i'm not sure what else cold be causing it. I can almost red line the car even keeping it at 1/4 throttle, but if i try to give it anymore throttle than that it bogs down like a bitch. And thats only seems to be whiel driving if i'm in netrual stopped it seems to rev just fine, I haven't sat there and floored it sitting there but i knwo i've given it more than a 1/4 throttle I dunno i'm scratchin my head on this one

[Shehzada]

Timing Light

I just bought my very first light from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3343

When I connected it and pulled the trigger, it started squealing a high pitch sound and the strobe would flicker light for 6 seconds turn off and then start back up again. Is that normal? Or maybe its defective?

[HaulAss247]

that doesn't sound right did you connect it correctly?

[xfactortype1]

a few ideas

on f22's, the dizzy cannot be installed 180 off, read a haynes, i forgot the reason why.

i think its the end bearing design. it like a tappered trapeziod that can only fit one way, so you cant install it out of phase. it that sounds right.

why not swap you 160 t-stat for a stock 180 one. maybe your overcooling too much? i dont see that need for the 160. i dont think you making a ungodly amount of more hp. maybe for turbo but no nat-asp. hondas are meant to run on the hot side

otherwise like mantioned..check your firing order and your vaccum line arent crossed or disconnected.

last idea. if you upgraded your fuel pump, but not your injectors. do you think its a fuel supply issue at your injectors..like too much or to little fuel at rail or injectors?


godluck..hope i sprung some ideas

[Shehzada]

that doesn't sound right did you connect it correctly?

I connected the red lead to battery positive, black lead to battery negative, and the pick-up to the #1 plug wire. It did work but kept on giving a high pitch sound/squeal. Considering its from HF, I thought it was just normal.

[HaulAss247]

i think its the end bearing design. it like a tappered trapeziod that can only fit one way, so you cant install it out of phase. it that sounds right.

why not swap you 160 t-stat for a stock 180 one. maybe your overcooling too much? i dont see that need for the 160. i dont think you making a ungodly amount of more hp. maybe for turbo but no nat-asp. hondas are meant to run on the hot side

otherwise like mantioned..check your firing order and your vaccum line arent crossed or disconnected.

last idea. if you upgraded your fuel pump, but not your injectors. do you think its a fuel supply issue at your injectors..like too much or to little fuel at rail or injectors?


godluck..hope i sprung some ideas

Why would i want to run hotter? Its better to keep the engine cooler. You wouldn't say that the car is running better because its overheating. I can't remember i think it is reccomended by jet to be used with the chipped ecu. I'd have to ask Dave. But no the problem is fixed, the timing was off by 180 degrees, my own fault i had forgotten that my buddy had broken the fork on the dizzy and i had to swap it. So i took it back off and switched the fork around and it started right up. No problems other than egr and speed sensor at the moment. I figured it out a while ago now i guess i forgot to post it, it just came to me when i was talking to d112crzy about it.

P.S LOL i figured out my spuddering problem today since i finally got a chance to work on my car. I thought it was the TPS sensor, wasn't it all the voltage readings were within spec. My oil pressure sensor on the back of the block was not hooked up. i wired it up and noo problems since then. SO for the record the OIL PRESSURE SENSOR CAN CAUSE THE ECU TO RETARD YOUR TIMING VERY BAD.

^^^does it say anything in your instruction manual for your timing gun about that noise? Maybe its just an alert to tell you its working, ya got me

[Shehzada]

Its a very cheapo type gun. It doesnt mentioned anywhere that it should sound like that. I just bought it cuz I needed something cheap........and it worked and now my timing is dead on.

[HaulAss247]

cool, as long as it worked mang thats all that matters