What could most likely be my problem?

[Djmoua]

Today i was goin to work around 3pm...car dies like 2 times at different times...first it died around 2:50...fuckin waited til it started again which was about 3:10...goin towards work, it dies again in just about 4 or 5 minutes after the first time it died. Pulled to the side with hazard lights on. Waited for like 10 minutes and a cop shows up behind me. Asked if car was dead (NO SHIT!)..he decided he wanted me in a safer spot (parking lot) so he pushed me with his patrol car...got in the lot and told him thanks piggy. WAITED for a fuckin hour and a half for it to start again. I had a cell but didn't want anyone to take me to work while leaving my Cb alone after reading Threads about ppl here getting thier Cbs stolen from faggots. Did NOT want to risk that shit. So as i waited, i decided to check my dizzy in which some of ya suggested...i checked it, took the 3 screws off around where the 4 sparks are connected..checked inside and everything seemed fine! (i'll try to post pics of what i saw later)


~There was MORE screws but i don't know if THAT's what you guys meant by checking my dizzy since my car randomly shuts off/Dies and makin my ass wait this long.~

Anyway, i didn't want to mess anything up in there (the dizzy) if i were suppose to go into it deeper. SO i checked my sparkplugs..pulled those out, and some reason the sparkplugs didn't come out. Only the rubber thing that holds them..That's suppose to happen right?...If so, the tip of the rubber part that holds the Sparkplugs had some kind of rust color wetness on 2 of em, 1 with like a droplet of oil, and the other was just fine. Something goin on here that i don't know? I wiped them off thinkin that made the difference. Tried to start the car, and that wasn't it. Finally decided to just wait a few minutes more. Then it started finally and i noticed my car's temp gauge was at the bottom meaning like it had to be cooled off in order to start again..main relay can't be the prob can it? i mean i changed it around 04 or 05...still need change on relay? anyway...advice is VERY NEEDED! I can't deal with this kind of shit anymore!..TIA!

[NAiL05]

Dunno why you had an attitude with the police they were just moving you to a safer area....Could be main relay just pull it out and solder it up. If that doesn't fix it I would give your ignition switch a look. But taking a long time to crank usually is something with the main relay. When you turn your key on you should here your Fuel pump kick on. If you dont then your main relay is bad.

[Djmoua]

shoo i threw an attitude in my mind, NOT literally at him hahaha and why i did THAT was cuz This random shut off crap ticks me off. IDK, for some reason i think it be better if i let you test drive my Cb once you're in town if we were to do that Dallas meet. That way for sure you'll know exactly whats' wrong with my car Nail.

[NAiL05]

Accord Vehicle Info:

91 EX Automatic

Symptom(s):
Car would not start after being driving for a while on hot days. After cool down it would restart.

Cause(s):
Main relay solder points had become loose. Removed main realy under dash and resoldered points.

Price(s):

Freebie, did it myself!


Sounds like your problem. There is a DIY on this somewhere on this site. Just pull off the relay and solder it up.

EDIT: Link for the DIY http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...relay+location

You can thank me later

[Djmoua]

yeah but yesterday when this happend...it wasn't hot hot, just like about 70-75 degrees..but idk, Maybe i have more than 1 symptom..the MR, alternator, AND the ignitor. THAT could be the prob all at once right?


and shit heh summer is gettin close by..if my prob were to still occur..the damn heat will just make me worst na mean?

[NAiL05]

Yes. Main Relays wear out over time. The cheapest method is to resolder the main relay like the link I posted. Its free and its pretty easy after you find it under the dash.

[GREENCB3]

Could also be the alternator if u said the car just died.

[Djmoua]

yeah im thinkin it's also the alternator as well because IT DOES look dirty...but for the Ignition Control Module..If that was what i looked at in the distributor, then i didn't see anything bad in it.

[NAiL05]

IF the alternator was NOT charging you would have been running on battery voltage AND your car would have not started up AGAIN. Unless you got one of those that like the charge sometimes and dont charge. Just because something looks dirty doesnt mean its bad. The Igniter will go out when you see your tach fluctuate on the dash. It would also be a sign if your inner parts of the distributor were coated in oil allowing it to short out. The ignition switch can cause a cut off but restarting it usually works and doesnt take long. That would be the main thing I would check AFTER resoldering and seeing if its your problem first. DO the easy free stuff first before spending money.

[Djmoua]

I SHALL! hah thanks then, gonna go get me a gun!

..and forgot to add in that the alternator DOES look dirty but it's also old as the car...never got a new one yet.

[lokuputha]

after starting ur car, you should be able to unhook the battery, as it is only needed to start the car and not keeep the car running, the alternator does that.

if ur car dies after ur unhook ur battery, then u need a new alternator.

[Djmoua]

after starting ur car, you should be able to unhook the battery, as it is only needed to start the car and not keeep the car running, the alternator does that.

if ur car dies after ur unhook ur battery, then u need a new alternator.

ok unhook battery...is there a specific side i take off of the battery?

[Fake Thug]

after starting ur car, you should be able to unhook the battery, as it is only needed to start the car and not keeep the car running, the alternator does that.

if ur car dies after ur unhook ur battery, then u need a new alternator.

And battery

Of course an easier and "safer" way to check your charging system without destroying your car is to take a multimeter using direct current volts and connect the leads to the battery. Black for - red for +.
You should get a reading of 12.9-14.4 volts

Your alternator is unlikely. When you turn your ignition to acc, can you hear a click? Can you hear the fuel pump "whirring"? Check all your fuses, under the hood and driver's side kick panel. ELIMINATE the main relay and fuel pump, then come back and let us know. We can go from there

Also,check your battery connections.

[lokuputha]

my bad....removing the battery while running is actually not that safe...u could cause a power surge...listen to oozingmachismo2

[Djmoua]

Your alternator is unlikely. When you turn your ignition to acc, can you hear a click? Can you hear the fuel pump "whirring"? Check all your fuses, under the hood and driver's side kick panel. ELIMINATE the main relay and fuel pump, then come back and let us know. We can go from there

Also,check your battery connections.

Yeah i DO hear the click when i start up..BUT then i dont once it randomly dies on me. Which makes me wait again as i keep trying to listen for that click to start up again. And by ELIMINATING, you meant REPLACING right?