Just Bent my valves!!!!

[cp[mike]]

when i did mine, i unbolted the manifolds from the front and back of the head, and just pushed them aside without removing them. the hoses and such from the passenger side get disconnected, and the timing belt on the driver side gets disconnected. and thats the majority of it.

as far as coolant, you only really need to drain the head - if the block is still filled, itll be below the deck of the block and wont leak out.

[1990HybridCB7]

yea, I just finished up as much as I could just now. I unbolted all the misc. parts and drained the coolant.

I unbolted both the intake and exhaust manis but neither want to come off. The exhaust man a least budges alittle but the intake wont move at all.

Am I forgetting something thats making it so difficult for these manifolds to come off I mean I know these gaskets are suppose to make a good seal to the head but how difficult should it be to take them off?

[cp[mike]]

give it a bop with a hammer, see if it loosens - did you remove the bracket from the underside of the manifold, the one that attaches the mani to the back of the block?

[1990HybridCB7]

give it a bop with a hammer, see if it loosens - did you remove the bracket from the underside of the manifold, the one that attaches the mani to the back of the block?

Thats the funny thing, I realized this over a year ago when doing my clutch and flywheel, I don't have that bracket. Whats up with that?

What else could it be to cause my IM to not wanna budge?

[1990HybridCB7]

I got some more work done on the car today, I finally got the head off.

For the exhaust mani, I just unbolted ( or my cousin did) the mani itself from the DP and for the intake, I forgot to one nut so thats what was preventing the intake from coming off.

The only other obstacle we ran into was with the damn auto tensioner, for some reason we could fit a wrench around it IDK what happened there, I guess we were just slacking, but I just tried putting the closed end of a 10mm wrench on there and it made it budge.

That was pretty much the only road block that slowed us down, Theres alot of carbon build up but besides that everything else checks out ( besides the valves of course)

The valve seats look alittle akward and we were able to see light from the bottom looking up so that defintly seems to be a problem. I'll call around for shops tomorrow and see if I could get prices on how much this is gonna cost to fix.

Anything else I should look for while I have the head off? BTW, What could be the cause of the carbon build up? and is that normal?

PS, , I see that I am banned, can any mod elaborate on this as to what I did?

[NAiL05]

Its the cool thing nowadays. You guys didnt have a ratchet to get to the auto tensioner?

[1990HybridCB7]

We did, but IDK, I was letting my cousin fool around w/ it and he could seem to make anything fit on there so he took the clip out and kept playing with it but couldn't seem to make anything fit.

I started to try with different sized wrenches and nothing was working, I eventually just tried one more time but tried with the cloed end of a 10mm and it worked.

It took alot longer than it should have.

[HondaFan81]

On removal and installation of heads, I prefer to disconnect all instake manifold and head related connections. Then, I remove the head and intake manifold together, meaning you only need to remove the head screws, then pull the head and intake manifold as an assembly. When pulled out, I then remove the intake manifold from the head. Why it makes sense to do this?

When you get the head ready for install, you simply bolt the intake manifold onto the head, which is HECK of alot easier to do outside the engine bay and you can do it correctly, causing no vacuum leaks from intake manifold gasket in the future. Then, install the head and intake manifold as an assembly. No need for trying to install the intake manifold nuts from top and bottom of car, while in the engine bay. Anyone that's done that can tell you they are hard to reach and you don't really feel confident about evenly torquing them down for no vacuum leaks.

That is my suggestion, quicker and quality in the end.

[1990HybridCB7]

I might just have to try that. It is a really tight squeeze trying to remove the nuts from under the car.

I can look in my service manual when I get home but does anybody know off the top of thier head how much those nuts should be torqued?

If its a good amount than i'll defintely remove the mani from the engine bay and put the head back in with the mani as an assembly upon reinstallation.

I was thinking of removing it all in the first place (head w/intake) but I thought it would be easier to just unbolt those nuts instead of unplugging everything on the mani

[1990HybridCB7]

I just found this while looking on ebay,http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H22a4...spagenameZWDVW

I would pick this up but its off a 97 and I have a 95. Would this head work on my car? Only three hours left so quick feedback would help bigtime

[owequitit]

On removal and installation of heads, I prefer to disconnect all instake manifold and head related connections. Then, I remove the head and intake manifold together, meaning you only need to remove the head screws, then pull the head and intake manifold as an assembly. When pulled out, I then remove the intake manifold from the head. Why it makes sense to do this?

When you get the head ready for install, you simply bolt the intake manifold onto the head, which is HECK of alot easier to do outside the engine bay and you can do it correctly, causing no vacuum leaks from intake manifold gasket in the future. Then, install the head and intake manifold as an assembly. No need for trying to install the intake manifold nuts from top and bottom of car, while in the engine bay. Anyone that's done that can tell you they are hard to reach and you don't really feel confident about evenly torquing them down for no vacuum leaks.

That is my suggestion, quicker and quality in the end.

I use this method also.

[1990HybridCB7]

At this point, i'm pretty much getting everything togther for the rebuild.

I'm gathering all the misc. gaskets and seals and sent the head out to the machine shop yesterday.

I was reading through the Honda manual for the installation and everything seems pretty straight foward. I am curious about the install of the timing belth though becausethat seems almost to good to be true for the install. So I am supose to just place the belt back on the teeth of the camshaft pulley's and screw the maintence bolt for the auto tensioner back into place and that should put all the tension back on the timing belt .

[cp[mike]]

the auto tensioner is just a spring that provides a constant pressure. once its popped out fully, good luck pushing it back in by hand. so you have to take the crank pulley and timing belts off. so now is a good time to replace them if they might need it (90k interval). youll need the holder bracket for the auto tensioner. if you take the 8mm cap off the bottom end (face up, its got oil inside) ull see a screw, use that to pull the spring in. put the bracket on to hold it for reinstall. you should be able to buy the holder at the dealer. new auto tensioners come with it premounted, so whether they sell them individually or not, they probably have a few of them sitting around...

also if you are doing this by hand, youll need this: http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64879.../dp/B0000TMLWQ and a second breaker bar to get the crank pulley off.

[owequitit]

At this point, i'm pretty much getting everything togther for the rebuild.

I'm gathering all the misc. gaskets and seals and sent the head out to the machine shop yesterday.

I was reading through the Honda manual for the installation and everything seems pretty straight foward. I am curious about the install of the timing belth though becausethat seems almost to good to be true for the install. So I am supose to just place the belt back on the teeth of the camshaft pulley's and screw the maintence bolt for the auto tensioner back into place and that should put all the tension back on the timing belt .

Theoretically, yes that works.

And yes it actually just worked for me a couple weeks ago when I put the belt back on after I bent my valves...

It will be very tight, but if you locked the tensioner correctly, it should go on.

There is a tool that Honda makes so that you put on the exhaust cam pulley, that is like a tapered ramp. You put the belt on the intake side, and then slide it up the ramp and onto the exhaust pulley. Quite slick actually.

[1990HybridCB7]

Ok, so basically im gonna have to do more work than I orginally thought. I already removed the crank pulley cause my cousin dropped one of the cam gear keys into the lower timing cover and had to remove the Crank bolt ( luckly he broke it lose for me) and slightly move the lower timing belt cover to let the key fall out.

I don't think I'll change the belts just as of yet, the engine came to me with alittle over 30,000 miles on it and I only put 10,xxx miles on it since (alittle over a year). I also don't wanna change the belts cause I'd like to do the whole nine ( belts, water pump, seals, etec, etc.) and just change the timing belt. Also, the mileage isn't high at all and I don't put that many miles annualy so i'll save that project for another time.

For right now, I just wanna make sure I put the timing belt on the right way. So its alright to use the tensioner thats on thier, just gotta get that stopper?
Looking through the manual, I see exactly what your saying about the auto tensioner now. I'll go to my job tomorrow and see if anybody has them lying around.