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    What's that hose?

    Can anybody tell me what the hose is that does a little u turn behind and underneath the EGR valve?

    It connects to something that looks like a pump on the left, goes back about 8 inches, does a u-turn, and comes back and connects under there somewhere about three inches to the right of the first connection.

    I'm guessing that the "pump looking thing" is the water pump, and that where it connects back there out of sight is the (inlet/supply/low temp side?) connection to the engine block.

    HOW DO I REPLACE THE THING?

    It looks pretty impossible to replace without removing something, but I'm guessing I should be able to get to it by removing my air intake pipe from the filter to the intake manifold.

    Can somebody let me know if I'm on the right track... not a pro at this, but I need to get to work tomorrow morning, so I'm going to ride my bicycle to the auto-parts store in a little bit.

    Thanks!

    D

    #2
    Pics please?

    Comment


      #3
      its a coolant hose. it loops from the thermostat housing (the "pump") to the back of the intake manifold.

      a haynes manual should explain how to get to it and how to replace it. its not hard to replace hoses, its just hard getting to them.


      - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
      - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
      - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
      - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
      - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
      - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
      - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
      - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
      Current cars:
      - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
      - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by cp[mike]
        its a coolant hose. it loops from the thermostat housing (the "pump") to the back of the intake manifold.

        a haynes manual should explain how to get to it and how to replace it. its not hard to replace hoses, its just hard getting to them.
        true that. my advice is to use a razor blade and put a slice onto the hose and a screw driver to help take it off. use silicone spray or wd40 on the new hose to put back on the new hose. good luck.
        The beginning of a new era............................
        165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
        184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by cp[mike]
          its a coolant hose. it loops from the thermostat housing (the "pump") to the back of the intake manifold.

          a haynes manual should explain how to get to it and how to replace it. its not hard to replace hoses, its just hard getting to them.
          Thanks for the input, guys.

          I ended up needing to leave to get the part without waiting for an answer so I could get back with time to put it in before it got dark.

          AND... I made it, it's in, and I didn't screw it up.

          As an FYI for any other newbies...

          1) To get at it, I removed the intake piping from the filter to the intake (2 vacuum lines attached, remember where they came from, and remember which routing clips everything goes back into). Everything else I worked my way through or around to get at the hose.

          2) I took the old hose off with pliers for the clips, and elbow grease. Yeah, a razor blade probably would have helped... I had to grunt a little and use the pliers to get back down in there.

          3) I used two wire nuts as plugs for the holes (I didn't drain the system). But I wouldn't recommend this unless you're sure they won't get knocked inside the engine or thermostat.

          4) Got a ride to the auto parts store from a friend, took the old hose, made sure new part matched, then bought it.

          5) Pinched and slid clips onto the new hose far enough to be out of the way, placed them at an angle that would be easiest to access with pliers once I start putting it in.

          6) A little anti-freeze on the inside of the new hose for lubricant so the new hose will go on.

          7) Slide the new hose into place, make sure it's all the way on.

          7) Pinch and slide the clamps into place to grip between the bulge in the nipple and the end of the hose, leaving a little bit of hose out the other side of the clamp for grip.

          8) Re-connect the intake piping and air filter, tighten that screw, and reconnect the two vacuum lines.

          8) Top off radiator with half anti-freeze and half water. Run the engine for a while to work through bubbles until... ? I didn't have to add much, probably less than a quart, then the rest of what I had mixed went into the overflow tank. But there will probably be bubbles that flush themselves out, I'm guessing. Put the radiator cap back on and tighten it down.

          9) [This step is skippable by other users] Almost done, so I checked out the job with a flashlight (it's getting dark)... when I set the flashlight down for a second to reconnect a wire into one of those little routing clips... it fell down the back of the engine compartment ALL the way down there back against the firewall. At least it was pointing up, so it made it easier to see how to stick my arm down in there... took a little creativity to fish it out. Gotta love it.

          10) Drive to the parts store again to buy the radiator hoses also, since they seem a little soft also.

          That's it.

          D
          Last edited by do2mind; 04-24-2007, 04:05 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            good job.
            The beginning of a new era............................
            165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
            184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

            Comment

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