How bad is this head?

[Abeerdrinker]

This head was on a car that was in the junkyard less then 2 days but in the glove compartment I found a dealer receipts that stated this car was fully serviced less then 1000 miles ago. The rear of the car was smashed but it ran perfect before I took the whole block out. I am tearing it apart infront of my home to learn more about the block for repairs and common problems. I was gonna take the head to my old shop and get them to blast it clean. Since my F20 head again is not living up to standard I might just change with this head if found ok.













I am taking more pictures. I see no scratches in the block walls but see alot of oil build up. The water pump looks still new compared to the rest of the block,

[Abeerdrinker]

[cp[mike]]

doesnt look too bad to me. normal looking carbon buildup.

only thing id point out is 3 cylinders are wet, 1 is dry. but thats probably just due to how you removed it. any rocker/cam wear? what does the oil buildup in the head look like?

[Abeerdrinker]

well the oil is still golden besides the dirt I put inside of it. The cam shows no scoring on it. It ran for about a hour before I pulled the motor. It does show alot of oil outside the block but it seemed to leak from the back of the valve cover. The coolant was perfectly green. No noise was detected during the run and the compression tested showed even numbers across the board. I didnt do a leak down test since I dont have that tool. I could only do the comp test while it was freshly started and after it ran for the hour and the numbers only changed a little but i figured heat will make the numbers change.

[cp[mike]]

if you run your fingernail across the slight scrapes in the cylinder wall, can you feel them at all?

from what i can tell, it looks like a normal 100+mi f22... nothing seems out of the ordinary.

btw, steel wool (used lightly) will clear all of the carbon right out of those combustion chambers.




im sure other people will have better input than that :P

[BuckChoklit]

When you see those tan deposits on the intake valves (the same deposits were most likely on the spark plug as well) that means the engine was running fantastic. I wouldn't have any reservations about putting that head on my motor.

[wed3k]

id take a valve out to inpect guide play and check the seats for pits.
it looks typical, the only f22 head i have ever dealt with was one that the seat fell out lol.

i wonder what the seals are like.

and BTW: the tan deposits are usually on exhaust side not intake.

[BuckChoklit]

You're right my bad. The intake valves are generally larger than the exhaust valves.

[wed3k]

my bad, fill the ports up with water and see if the valves leak it on the combustion chamber side. they should hold the water.

if they drip like one drop then it should be okay.

if there is a consistent stream of water coming from the valve, it will need a valve job since that cylinder will probably wont pass a leak down test very well.

its a quick and easy way of diagnosing the cylidner heads that we get at work.

[Abeerdrinker]

Well I finally got the leak down test done on my F20A motor since it was having problems but after a hour of sitting and waiting they told me that tube 3 has a bad valve guide cause pressure was escaping up. So I am extremely happy it wasnt something major. He said I could deal with it until they all give if they are not since the burning oil is so small. which is true since I can barely see the oil smoke and the dipstick hasny changed its level since the oil was changed


What someone told me to do to make sure was to first take the car for nice long drive. Then remove all the spark plugs and fill each cyclinder chamber with injector cleaner and leave a rag over the spark plug tubes. Then removed the injector wire. Let the cleaner sit for a while then crank the motor by hand little by little. Letting the cleaner disolve the carbon buildup. Then crank the motor with with a rag over all the spark plug tubes. So fluid pushes out the tube seals and then remove the head to clean the remaining carbon. The guide seals are fine except for just one which could be from a carbon build up and the fact that the motor has sat. I took the advice as a grain of salt but the guy hit the nail on the head about the motor on how it has sat when I got it which has been for month or so I didnt tell the person but they fact they knew that lead me to belive he knew something.

So I am planing on doing a motor flush complete for carbon removal. If not then I will buy the 4 dollar valve guide replace it. But I since decided to sell the car anyhow and cheap enough to compensate for the problem. So the next person can do it. I am not happy with selling the car with a problem but to a CB7 lover this isnt a big problem like I thought it was.