Fuel Pump Short

[SuperTuner12010]

Ok well today IU was messing with a kill switch and have no idea what I was doing.I had it to were if i flipped the switch the fuel pump would stay on(not cool) but witout it it wouldnt work at all.So I completely removed the swith and the wire I split into.Now when I go to accesory the S light doesnt come on and I cant here the pump ingage.So im thinking there is a short I caused.How can I check it and what do I do??

Thanks

[SuperTuner12010]

Bump

[cali-racer]

what wire did u split?

[SuperTuner12010]

It was a yellow one....Please help its getting realy eritating.

Its hard to explain though.When I got the switch to work, I would turn it on and it would stay on until I turnt it off.SO I just completely took it off.

[cali-racer]

where is the wire located at? are ya talkin about the yellow wire that goes to the plug that plugs into the pump it self (on top of tank) or somewhere else? and im guessing u re-wired the yellow back together.

[SuperTuner12010]

Yes but I did it about in the middle of the passenger door.

[cali-racer]

i say its a short, either the connection aint right or wire exposed or fuses. u have a light tester (forgot the name, sorry) that tells u if ur having electrical current flowin?

[SuperTuner12010]

I used a voltage tester and well im not getting power What fuse would it be? Or could it be the main relay?

[SuperTuner12010]

Bump

[SuperTuner12010]

Bumbs up

[SuperTuner12010]

What fuse would cause there to be no power going to the fuel pump?

[SuperTuner12010]

Well the search button is working for me right now, and when I turn the car to accesroy the check engine light stays on.....Whats wrong please?

[cali-racer]

i know that the main relay does make the fuel pump work but i doubt its that. i'll check the book today and see what i could find.

edit: is there power goin before u splice the wire? or just no power at all before u splice the wire? (u know, where u reconnected the wires)

[SN2BH22CB7]

^ good point...

use a tester...the one I have ...its got a red LED bulb in it..what you have to do is ground that tester ..and probe the wire...go along the wire.and probe...if you're getting power..the red light will come on...when you probe a certain section of the wire ..and it doesn't come on..THEN you know from the point where you got current...and the point where theres no current...( theres a breakage )

so that means...CUT AND SPLICE...ATTACH NEW WIRE....then if you get power all way to the pump...after finding the problem...SOLDER the section..and HEAT SHRINK WRAP..then wrap ELECTRICAL tape around the HEAT SHRINKED area!

but if the pump isn't priming....and you're sure its not the MFR...try it in another CB7..if it starts up with YOUR MFR in that other CB7..the MFR is good!...but ...

..check the wires going to and from the ECU to the MFR....

its an electrical mishap..you just have to find it...we are trying to point you into the right direction...



I hope you get it fixed...I know how you feel..I was in your shoes when I was dealing with my girl's CB7! come to find out...her harness and ECU was faulty!...some bad sections had chaffed and grounded out the ECU :

NOTE: it could become a long stretched out work!

WAIT...I had to re-read your post..

Hmm...when you took the kill switch off...was the battery still hooked up??

Hmm..this could get tricky!

you HAVE to unhook the battery NEG cable when you're dealing with ANYTHING dealing with FUEL or ELECTRICAL ...thats the NUMBER 1 RULE!

if you had that negative still on..and if the key was turned to ACC...and the wires were exposed to bare metal on the chassis..you could've shorted out ANYTHING!

you could've shorted out the TCU and possibly the ECU ..if thats the case!

( if you're auto ) = TCU

[SuperTuner12010]

^ good point...

use a tester...the one I have ...its got a red LED bulb in it..what you have to do is ground that tester ..and probe the wire...go along the wire.and probe...if you're getting power..the red light will come on...when you probe a certain section of the wire ..and it doesn't come on..THEN you know from the point where you got current...and the point where theres no current...( theres a breakage )

so that means...CUT AND SPLICE...ATTACH NEW WIRE....then if you get power all way to the pump...after finding the problem...SOLDER the section..and HEAT SHRINK WRAP..then wrap ELECTRICAL tape around the HEAT SHRINKED area!

but if the pump isn't priming....and you're sure its not the MFR...try it in another CB7..if it starts up with YOUR MFR in that other CB7..the MFR is good!...but ...

..check the wires going to and from the ECU to the MFR....

its an electrical mishap..you just have to find it...we are trying to point you into the right direction...



I hope you get it fixed...I know how you feel..I was in your shoes when I was dealing with my girl's CB7! come to find out...her harness and ECU was faulty!...some bad sections had chaffed and grounded out the ECU :

NOTE: it could become a long stretched out work!

WAIT...I had to re-read your post..

Hmm...when you took the kill switch off...was the battery still hooked up??

Hmm..this could get tricky!

you HAVE to unhook the battery NEG cable when you're dealing with ANYTHING dealing with FUEL or ELECTRICAL ...thats the NUMBER 1 RULE!

if you had that negative still on..and if the key was turned to ACC...and the wires were exposed to bare metal on the chassis..you could've shorted out ANYTHING!

you could've shorted out the TCU and possibly the ECU ..if thats the case!

( if you're auto ) = TCU

Yah its an auto, and no one has never told me that.I didnt disconnect the battery

So what might I have shorted out???

I used a voltage tester and Iwasnt geting any juice to the fuel pump.

What should I try and do?Thanks