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Re-doing the wires - mass corosion problems

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    Re-doing the wires - mass corosion problems

    Well as the title says, im having some extensive corosion issues, and it was to one point that the car wouldnt start. So im starting to do the ground wire kit myself, (all crimping and wiring bought in bulk, and im putting it together myself)... until now. I got the my Positive line that is a -2 gauge line (i think anyways) and its seriously coroded bad, my gold plated terminal adapter even has corosion on it (when it shouldnt) That line goes to the starter if im correct, and its getting really bad, however, how the hell am i supposed to replace a line that big... i mean its GIGANTIC, and it doesnt flex very well, can i use a -2 gauge audio cable, or do i need to move over to industrial lines? I know this line alone will cost me 100 bucks, but if this is all thats causing my shit to go bad, i want it replaced asap...
    Also, even if my sub and stereo is off, the friggin turning signals will dim down the rest of the car, so i have reason to believe im going to be replacing most of the wires in the engine compartment... at least it will give out good power after that. I need to know the gauge size of that line, as well as the rest in the car going to the fuse box, (i think its 4 gauge), and the line going to the alternator, is that also a 4 gauge?
    Thanks muchly
    90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
    2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

    #2
    When I did alot of my wiring including the battery relocation I went to a welding supply store and got some fat wiring and good connectors there, and it is much cheaper than buying any type of stereo stuff, and better in my opinion. Try and find an outlet store or something and go there. L8r
    Turbo H23a3 build has begun
    01-01-2019

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      #3
      Well i was thinking of that, however here is my argument on it. Audio wiring that im getting is VERY flexible, so im going to make it a bit longer, and secure it against posts where i can, The only thing i really want to argue on is wether audio wiring is better power consistancy then average vehicle wiring.... DOes it operate better then the average wire, or should i just get a standard line and be done with it...
      90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
      2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

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        #4
        Originally posted by js593
        Well i was thinking of that, however here is my argument on it. Audio wiring that im getting is VERY flexible, so im going to make it a bit longer, and secure it against posts where i can, The only thing i really want to argue on is wether audio wiring is better power consistancy then average vehicle wiring.... DOes it operate better then the average wire, or should i just get a standard line and be done with it...
        Not all audio wires are the same, Some are pure junk.

        Welding wire is your best bet. Pretty cheap compared to audio wire of the same size. The only difference is audio wire has more strands and is more flexible.

        The one that goes to the alternator I believe is either 10 gauge or 8 gauge.

        The one from the battery to the starter should be either a 2 guage or a 4.

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          #5
          Well i got the one for the starter off before, and i had to get a ring terminal for it, and it was a 0 gauge terminal, so i would assume its a 0 gauge wire right? THere was no room left int he terminal for anything else either.
          90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
          2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!

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