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    OK new alternator still dying

    i got the new alternator it was at 15V and then resting at 14.5 even with the lights on. Mind you my car has been sitting for 3 days. its dark so I turn on my lights drive about 5 miles the radio shuts off and car begins to die. I think that there is a bad wire on the engine harness. I have a 91 accord but will the 92 93 harness work. I know the distributor is external on the 92-93 but what if I just leave those off. Let me know.
    Mr. $3 Dollahz Himself!

    #2
    check all your grounding points.

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      #3
      1. Is your battery holding voltage?
      2. Is the output wire on the alternator clamped on tight and plugged in.

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        #4
        When replacing your old alternator with a new one it is recommended also to buy and replace your old battery with a new one. An old battery will make your new alternator work harder to recharge.

        Also check your alternator belt.
        Last edited by Chan_Man; 11-29-2007, 02:07 AM.
        "form follows function."
        Louis Sullivan

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          #5
          i kind of had the same problem with mine. i replaced the battery and it ran fine for the next 2 weeks i had it then it sold. so hopefully the guy i sold it to doesnt have any problems. but it ran fine and didnt die once i changed the battery. one wierd thing that did happen to me though was in 2nd gear around 3 grand the battery light popped up. but it only did it randomly and when it was really cold.
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            #6
            ok...

            I dont know it the battery is hold a charge it was weak when I put the new alternator on, i jump started it and it ran I never got to turn it off and see if the battery was charging. But even so if the alternator had to work harder why would the car die out. Then I check the grounds the tranny one is tight, the one under the fuse box is tight, the small battery ground goes to the fender, the one on the thermostat housing is fine, and the valve cover to power steering pump is on. They belt is tight, it does squeak. The plug is in tight, has some white stuff like that dried grease stuff but not much so I guess its making good contact. the charge wire is on the alternator tight and is not lose at all. Will wire shortage pull voltage while the car is running, I mean enough to make it die and the voltage continually get lower and lower and the only time it kinda charges is with the lights off, the car not moving and not pressing the brakes. I was going to change the whole wire harness, but I have a 92 harness and want to know it it will work. Also can oil be hot enough coming out of the engine to melt wire casing, b/c last week when the car was running oil was leaking from my oil filter onto my O2 sensor. I need to get under the and check the wires, I put a new filter on and I think it has stopped but I smelled something behind the engine burning, I guess its the old oil on the cat. I dont know it could still be running. Im so confused. All my fuses are good. Im lost. Pray for me.
            Mr. $3 Dollahz Himself!

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              #7
              no a 92-93 harness will not work. just look at the plugs at the passenger side strut tower on both harnesses, you will see right away why it will not work.

              Comment


                #8
                Ok Ive read some where that...

                to check the small relay above the glove box, I pulled out the glove box and I dont see any 4 wire relay. I read on my last post about this and it said to check the ICU and that relay. where are these things and how do I test them.
                Mr. $3 Dollahz Himself!

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by 1991acclude
                  i got the new alternator it was at 15V and then resting at 14.5 even with the lights on. Mind you my car has been sitting for 3 days. its dark so I turn on my lights drive about 5 miles the radio shuts off and car begins to die. I think that there is a bad wire on the engine harness. I have a 91 accord but will the 92 93 harness work. I know the distributor is external on the 92-93 but what if I just leave those off. Let me know.

                  Wont work unless you modify it. Sounds like a short to ground. No draw if it does it with the car on. Is this only with the headlights on that it loses power? Is one brighter than the other? Did you check the continuity in the charging circuit? If you have a circuit tester/test light turn your headlights on, poke into the ground wires on both your headlight connectors and see if it lights up. Leave them on a while before you do that.

                  If it does you have a short somewhere in that circuit for sure.A ground or a power wire chaffing metal somewhere. The result is wires getting hot,welding fusing together. When exactly does the car loose power? Is it when you turn something on or is it when you are just driving around?
                  Last edited by Fake Thug; 11-29-2007, 10:11 AM.

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                    #10
                    losing power driving around, I guess its worse at night....

                    because its using more power, park lights, headlights etc.
                    Mr. $3 Dollahz Himself!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Chan_Man
                      When replacing your old alternator with a new one it is recommended also to buy and replace your old battery with a new one. An old battery will make your new alternator work harder to recharge.

                      Also check your alternator belt.
                      X to the 2

                      if you have an old battery like Channy Chan said...

                      and you put on that new alternator...that battery could be NOT holding 100% of its charge meaning...the alternator is working harder to compensate for the lost charge of the battery.

                      which ...will cause premature failure of the alternator.

                      so...yes..its wise to change BOTH!

                      alternator and battery!..triple check the plugs for the alternator..and crimp on new battery post clamps!

                      NOTE: replace the starter wire as well!
                      92 LX. A6 with GUDE bullfrog Cam. M2S4 transmission..Gutted H23 intake mani. The rest you will just have to find out!


                      MR Thread:
                      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=174586
                      My tribute page: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=70489

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by oozingmachismo2
                        Wont work unless you modify it. Sounds like a short to ground. No draw if it does it with the car on. Is this only with the headlights on that it loses power? Is one brighter than the other? Did you check the continuity in the charging circuit? If you have a circuit tester/test light turn your headlights on, poke into the ground wires on both your headlight connectors and see if it lights up. Leave them on a while before you do that.

                        If it does you have a short somewhere in that circuit for sure.A ground or a power wire chaffing metal somewhere. The result is wires getting hot,welding fusing together.

                        yup!

                        if in fact there is a short...like Ooz said...you need to check for continuity!
                        92 LX. A6 with GUDE bullfrog Cam. M2S4 transmission..Gutted H23 intake mani. The rest you will just have to find out!


                        MR Thread:
                        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=174586
                        My tribute page: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=70489

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                          #13
                          just had my week old alt. checked again

                          the volts are fine but, they said the amps were low, I watched the screen and it said like 12.74V at 9 amps. Car still doesnt hold 14V does this sound like a wire short. I think Im about to drop it off at a certified car place and tell them to look at it and see if they can trace it down.
                          Mr. $3 Dollahz Himself!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 1991acclude
                            the volts are fine but, they said the amps were low, I watched the screen and it said like 12.74V at 9 amps. Car still doesnt hold 14V does this sound like a wire short. I think Im about to drop it off at a certified car place and tell them to look at it and see if they can trace it down.
                            How heavy is your battery?
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                            And yes, get a new Battery

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                              #15
                              think I found the problem

                              so I took the new alternator off and took it back to Auto Zone, they tested it and it checked out but he still gave me a new one, b/c my diagnostic from a near by shop said that was the problem. I got home to install it and when my belt came off the crank pulley I got on the ground and found my problem. The outer portion of the pulley(the part that drives the alt. and a/c comp.) had come attached from the actual pulley. So I have a old pulley thats rusted and laying by the house, getting it installed right now, that should do it. Thanks for all the help, you guys are the best.
                              Mr. $3 Dollahz Himself!

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