Driver side Ball joint problem

[Rootznation]

Well today i was finishing up putting in my new stage 3 clutch when another problem occured!

Not too sure what those arms are called but you know how the ball joint has to drop in the hole behind the hub(drivers side) and then you got too put that black nut with the grooves on along with the locking pin ? well when i attempted to screw it in the hole the whole bolt turns with the nut which is not supposed to happen therefore the nut cant be screwed on. the other side was fine but i guess that ball joint is no good.

Did anyone ever have this problem ? and if so did u just get it replaced or is there any other solutions to this problem.

[Fake Thug]

Well today i was finishing up putting in my new stage 3 clutch when another problem occured!

Not too sure what those arms are called but you know how the ball joint has to drop in the hole behind the hub(drivers side) and then you got too put that black nut with the grooves on along with the locking pin ? well when i attempted to screw it in the hole the whole bolt turns with the nut which is not supposed to happen therefore the nut cant be screwed on. the other side was fine but i guess that ball joint is no good.

Did anyone ever have this problem ? and if so did u just get it replaced or is there any other solutions to this problem.

Just replace the whole control arm

[Gettin_faster91]

I've had this problem myself. I just used allot of lube on the threads and nut along with needle nose vice grips to get the nut started. After you get the nut up far enough put the vice grips on the bottom and tighten it up the rest of the way. Hope this helps ya some.

[Rootznation]

i will try that thanks!!

[Chrisisiced]

Ooooo Cpmike helped me with this problem before... He told me to grab the hub/rotor and drop the ball joint bolt into the arm where it belongs and have somebody stand on the rotor while you tighten the nut and it worked like a charm!

[ceelooboob]

Ooooo Cpmike helped me with this problem before... He told me to grab the hub/rotor and drop the ball joint bolt into the arm where it belongs and have somebody stand on the rotor while you tighten the nut and it worked like a charm!

yea that works....also not sure if u have access to air tools but mine was doing that and i hit it with the air gun and it tightened right up....but air tools arent always around so i just bought new ball joints....not too exepsnsive

[HondaFan81]

yea that works....also not sure if u have access to air tools but mine was doing that and i hit it with the air gun and it tightened right up....but air tools arent always around so i just bought new ball joints....not too exepsnsive

That sometimes works, depends on how easily it spins.

This guy I think is referring to the lower ball-joint dropping into the lower arm bore does not achieve a tapered-fit and rotates within the lower arm bore before allowing the castle nut to tighten. It's all about anything you can do to push that lower ball-joint into the bore with more force to get enough tapered-fit squeeze so it does not rotate.

The use of a jackstand under the lower control arm pushing up on it, while using the knuckle assembly weight/gravity sometimes helps. Then, hit the castle nut with an impact (quicker to turn than by hand, maximizes your chance of tightening the nut). Achieve similar concept positioning a pry bar in a good location pushing knuckle down into lower arm bore or like cpmike said by putting weight on rotor, just don't bend the dust shield.

[Chrisisiced]

Yeah dont bend the dust shield or if you do remember to unbend it back OFF of the rotor

[jay82985]

Ooooo Cpmike helped me with this problem before... He told me to grab the hub/rotor and drop the ball joint bolt into the arm where it belongs and have somebody stand on the rotor while you tighten the nut and it worked like a charm!

ya that well work or use a air gun with just did all my ball joint

[trah]

That sometimes works, depends on how easily it spins.

This guy I think is referring to the lower ball-joint dropping into the lower arm bore does not achieve a tapered-fit and rotates within the lower arm bore before allowing the castle nut to tighten. It's all about anything you can do to push that lower ball-joint into the bore with more force to get enough tapered-fit squeeze so it does not rotate.

The use of a jackstand under the lower control arm pushing up on it, while using the knuckle assembly weight/gravity sometimes helps.

that will ruin the ball joint thread if your not careful.

[HondaFan81]

that will ruin the ball joint thread if your not careful.

No, as you are doing nothing to ruin the threads. Lining up the ball-joint into the bore does not ruin anything, that is the way it normally sits. Ruining the threads comes from banging on the end of the joint to pop it out like some people do when trying to remove it or cross-threading.

[owequitit]

x3 applying downward pressure on the balljoint to help it seat is the best idea.

It shouldn't take much, just enough friction to hold it still while you get the nut started and ready to tighten.

[trah]

No, as you are doing nothing to ruin the threads. Lining up the ball-joint into the bore does not ruin anything, that is the way it normally sits. Ruining the threads comes from banging on the end of the joint to pop it out like some people do when trying to remove it or cross-threading.

hahah read what you posted again and I read it wrong. I thought that it said to use jack on the ball joint.

oops read it wrong.

[HondaFan81]

hahah read what you posted again and I read it wrong. I thought that it said to use jack on the ball joint.

oops read it wrong.

That would be a negative hahaha, may as well take a hammer to it.

[Rootznation]

right on guys! i succesfully changed my ball joint on the driver side. It went pretty smoothly and saved me a bunch of money since my local honda dealer charges an arm and a leg for everything. thanks for all the replies