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ENG: FITV Delete, Home Depot style

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    ENG: FITV Delete, Home Depot style

    I removed my FITV and made this block plate cheap. Re-routed coolant line into a loop off IACV, which seemed like the right thing to do. Works great for me, idle is much smoother, should have done it sooner. After a certain point tightening down the plastic screw in the FITV stops working and effectively all you are doing is blocking it off. This removes the non-functioning part.

    After a few months looks like this:



    This is an F22a1, if it matters.

    There are other threads on methods and commentary on removing the FITV. You should research before doing, do at your own risk, blah blah.

    Assuming you already have gasket paper, you can get everything else at a well stocked hardware store.

    - plate
    - gasket paper
    - hose connector
    - hose
    - hose clamps
    - shortened bolts
    - paint if you want

    Materials:
    Electrical section; square box cover plate. ~58 cents.



    This is much sturdier than the cut up can route, though is more work. I think this is a better way to go, IMO.

    Plumbing section;
    - Hose connector: you can either get the brass double ended barbed connector (1/4") (~$3.50), which was out of stock in two HD's i went to, or substitute with a length of 1/4" copper tubing. They come in one or two foot lengths...look carefully, easy to miss. Mine cost ~$1.58.

    These are better than the plastic connectors you can get at auto store. (In first pic you'll see one...i had cut this section of tube before for cleaning...it was deformed but had yet to fail when i removed it after ~20k.)

    - Hose clamps. Near the barbed connector, or get at auto part store. You only need two, but i opted for a third. Not sure if cheaper at hd or auto store.

    Mower section;
    1/4" fuel line for repair. If you need gasket paper, i'd say get this at the auto part store, but i dont see why this item available at Home Depot wouldn't work...slim chance not anti-freeze safe, but this is probably just regular auto vacuum line repackaged.

    One foot is plenty.

    (Note: if you really wanted you could prob just carefully bend the flexible copper tubing into a loop and clamp down into a short length of hose off the IACV).



    Auto part store:
    - gasket paper ($5 for a roll with lots left over)
    - Hose clamps and 1/4" line (cheaper by the foot behind counter) if you didn't get elsewhere.

    Optional: short bolts (you can reuse the old ones shortened) and spray paint.

    So if you have no materials to start estimate 10-15 bucks. I had most this stuff so I paid about $2.

    Procedure:
    Remove FITV and disconnect hoses. Estimate size of plate needed. I think mine was ~2.25x2.5 inches.



    I scratch scribed and cut down the plate with a jigsaw.

    I then radiused the edges with a drill mounted abrasive disk. I just did it by eye. It's slightly imperfect, but no sharp corners. *





    Carefully figure out the location of your drill holes. There are some hoses on the right side which are a tight fit. I'd suggest locating the right hole first, checking, then using the FITV itself to locate the other two. Drill them slightly oversize for wiggle room...plenty of gasket surface here so it's ok.

    Cut the gasket paper. Put holes in it. A gasket punch is best, but i just drilled through against a backer block and cleaned it up with a knife.

    Cut the bolts down. These are very short, less than 10mm I think. Just cut a bit at a time, too short and you'll need a new bolt. I used a dremel cutoff wheel. I kept my long bolts and used some spares.

    You could mount the FITV back on top of this plate if you were concerned about emmisions inspection giving you issues but this seems unlikely.

    Loop a hose from iacv down to the line below. Cut where it looks like a good spot (engine cold), no kinks or rubbing. Hose may be a tight fit on IACV, I chucked a nail set (smooth conical head) into a drill, put on some soap and spit for lube, and flared the end of the hose. Easier installation.

    Hose barb is simple. If using tube then cut a length maybe 3.5", clean up ends, and clamp in one side then slip in other and clamp.

    You'll need to bleed your coolant for bubbles and maybe refill a bit.

    Last step is to reset your base idle.

    Done.

    *this is a galvanized steel plate and should not rust, however by cutting the edges you're exposing the metal inside, so hit it with matte black paint to keep it rust free. I didn't, and it's not really a problem, but I might paint it at some point.




    #2
    This is a great little guide for those who want to do this. It can also work for the Air Boost Valve on the side of the plenum. In fact JDM H22As come with a block-off plate on the ABV from the factory.

    Some tips:

    Instead of connecting the outlet hose of the IACV to the original outlet of the FITV you could just run a brand new hose the entire length. This modification is attractive to some because it cleans things up in the bay. This would help that.

    Also, for bolt length you could stack a couple of washers under the bolt head but on top of the plate to make up the length. It shouldn't be much of a difference. Sure, using shorter ones is cleaner but cutting bolts can be tricky sometimes.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      #3
      what is the purpose of the air boost valve? ^


      "You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
      "the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
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        #4
        I see the plate. But can u get a pic where u looped the hoses?
        **Blk Housed Slut Crew Member #1**

        **Don't b scared be prepared for the worst**
        Da Drizzle's Sedan - Dr. Diy's Blk Housed Thread

        '90 2Tone Coupe-Car Heaven_'89 Lude-Junk Yard
        Mostly Usdm, some Jdm,Edm,&Puerto Rican RICE

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          #5


          You see the two hoses here? Connect them.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

          Comment


            #6
            Ok I see it now. I have h23 setup. So its pretty similiar.
            **Blk Housed Slut Crew Member #1**

            **Don't b scared be prepared for the worst**
            Da Drizzle's Sedan - Dr. Diy's Blk Housed Thread

            '90 2Tone Coupe-Car Heaven_'89 Lude-Junk Yard
            Mostly Usdm, some Jdm,Edm,&Puerto Rican RICE

            Comment


              #7
              Would this cuase a longer time of warm up since you don't have the extra air to heat the engine up faster ?
              10th Anniversary Accord.
              05 Audi A4 Ultra Sport 6MT.

              Comment


                #8
                I thought I set this thread up to send me email updates! I hadn't got any emails so I just forgot about it.

                Well, these comments are two months old, but I'll comment anyway.

                Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
                This is a great little guide for those who want to do this. It can also work for the Air Boost Valve on the side of the plenum. In fact JDM H22As come with a block-off plate on the ABV from the factory.

                Some tips:

                Instead of connecting the outlet hose of the IACV to the original outlet of the FITV you could just run a brand new hose the entire length. This modification is attractive to some because it cleans things up in the bay. This would help that.

                Also, for bolt length you could stack a couple of washers under the bolt head but on top of the plate to make up the length. It shouldn't be much of a difference. Sure, using shorter ones is cleaner but cutting bolts can be tricky sometimes.
                Thanks for the tips and helping with questions.

                Originally posted by 10thAnnivCB7 View Post
                Would this cuase a longer time of warm up since you don't have the extra air to heat the engine up faster ?
                The FITV is the "fast idle thermal valve". Basically, it makes the engine idle fast, and then when it gets hot enough ("thermal") the valve part shuts it off. It doesn't effect how fast the engine warms up unless you are *just* idling. So if you normally start your car, put it in gear, and drive it, it doesn't effect anything.

                Now that it's December, I find that in the first 10 seconds after startup, if I blip the throttle and then let the RPMs crash back down, the engine might die, but I also have the load of a dying power steering pump on it. If I let it back down slowly, the IACV compensates. If I just start the car and do nothing (idle), the car stays running, I don't have to give it gas or anything. If I put it in gear and drive it, it's fine. Past those first few seconds, it's fine.

                The advantage is that I don't have that surging idle from the broken FITV any more.
                Last edited by aluminum13; 12-26-2012, 06:45 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  You could do this alot easier than you did it

                  GO get an old aluminum soda can

                  cut it out in the shape of the FITV

                  Fit it between the FITV and the plenum

                  Done

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Very nice. Good job. I just may do this upon eliminating the FITV on the future H install. Thanks.
                    The Lord watches over me!

                    "...they did the bowties, I did the ascots, as much as I have, I'm still reppin' the have nots..."

                    - So Raspy

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Tippey764 View Post
                      You could do this alot easier than you did it

                      GO get an old aluminum soda can

                      cut it out in the shape of the FITV

                      Fit it between the FITV and the plenum

                      Done
                      yep, I mentioned that in the OP. I like this better, removes stuff I don't need. To each their own.

                      Originally posted by aluminum13
                      This is much sturdier than the cut up can route, though is more work. I think this is a better way to go, IMO.
                      Keeping the FITV retains a look which might, but probably won't, make a difference in inspections.

                      Originally posted by Straight Success View Post
                      Very nice. Good job. I just may do this upon eliminating the FITV on the future H install. Thanks.
                      Thanks, it's pretty simple to do. I do recommend painting it when it's done. Really anyone can do this, I suppose the "trick" was thinking that one of those electrical plates would come in handy for something.
                      Last edited by aluminum13; 12-27-2012, 06:47 PM.

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