Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

ENG: TB Coolant Bypass

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    ENG: TB Coolant Bypass

    Better Pics. now you dont have to read 2 threads to understand...

    Ok, I don't know if any has seen this I can't take credit for it but It might help some. If this is wrong to do please explain why and what the purpose of the cooling lines throught the TB is.

    Free Hp...Throttle Body Coolant Bypass Instructions w/ pictures!!!

    This is pretty much a FREE MOD. I know all you out there like free engine upgrades.
    Well this is pretty much an easy DIY that adds some HP, not sure how much. Can guarantee that it does because what you are doing with this MOD is eliminating a coolant line that runs through your TB. Thus lowering the air temp. that runs through.

    I suggest that you only do this if you live where it stays pretty much warm all year, or that you hook it back up in the winter.

    Iíve asked around and people on other sites say that the purpose of this is to prevent the Butterfly in the TB from freezing up in the cold season.


    There is a color code in the letters...
    RED means you just totally disconnect those
    BLUE you will connect back together
    WHITE is just a guide so you know where you are in the engine bay

    Oh yes, donít do like Donny Donít and do this mod when your car cooling system is still hot.

    That way you wonít spill hot coolant on yourself.

    You'll needÖ

    1.Needle nose pliers to remove the clamps and to pull off the hoses
    2.Extra coolant in case you spill too much
    3.Pick up coolant hose from Auto Zone or where ever to make the necessary connections.



    I took the intake piping off so it would be easier to work with. Disconnect points A and B. The hose that came from A will connect to point C, and the hose that came from B, you just put aside. Some hoses are easier to connect that others, so switch them around as you like just as long as you get point C to connect with point D.



    Does the metal pipe at E look familiar? There's a coolant line that runs through there so I just moved it under the intake pipe. F is the main coolant line that runs back to the radiator. D is located just above F, near the block. The next picture illustrates that the best:



    Once you get C to connect D using any combination of hose length, then you're pretty much finished. This is what the final layout should look like:



    For your reference, the stock flow goes from A to B to E to D. Points A and B are input and output from the throttle body. We simply bypass those by adding the point C and connecting it to E. I have no clue how much power this MOD will provide.
    Last edited by KillerAccord; 12-15-2005, 04:19 PM. Reason: Improved Pics

    #2
    I'm sort of skeptical whether it will do much. I'm not saying its risky to do, but I am not sure if its worth the potential risk. It probably couldn't give you more than .5 horsepower gain if that.

    Props on coming up with some new stuff though, I hope you can prove me wrong and make some benefit from the DIY. Good luck!

    Comment


      #3
      ive just done my job.Not sure the HP but my temp are bit low now!
      Good for me because i live in asia
      Signature Picture removed due to excessive size

      VOLVO 240GL bandit crew....all mighty supertank

      Comment


        #4
        Nice DIY, I did that in the spring and it def. keeps the t/b so cold! I actually haven't hooked it back to stock and I haven't had any problems w/ the throttle plate sticking at all in the cold weather. Good deal Oh, BTW, what vehicle was this done on b/c it's alot different from the F22aX- the TPS is on top of the t/b and the egr valve is diff. too. Is it a F22b1?

        Dan

        Comment


          #5
          Like I said I can't take credit for it. So I'm not sure what Eng it is, but my F22A1 is set up like this. I just haven't done it yet because it is to damn cold in DE right now to be playing outside.

          Comment


            #6
            I remember reading somewhere that on some cars the coolant flowing through the t/b controls the idle. I don't know if this is true on our cars but once i had a leak on one of the lines going into the t/b and it made my idle bounce up and down. Has anyone had this happen as a result of this mod?

            Comment


              #7
              i havent done that and my butterfly sticks. when i let off the gas fast or sometimes randomly the pedal wont go down. its stuck in the idle position. i think its the throttle rotor. i cant firgure out any way to get it to un stick.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Funnel77
                I remember reading somewhere that on some cars the coolant flowing through the t/b controls the idle. I don't know if this is true on our cars but once i had a leak on one of the lines going into the t/b and it made my idle bounce up and down. Has anyone had this happen as a result of this mod?
                No, mine idles perfect w/o it. Are you maybe thinking of a vac. line or something? B/c that would greatly affect idle if you had an issue w/ vac. lines and whatnot.

                Originally posted by 93accordexcoupe
                i havent done that and my butterfly sticks. when i let off the gas fast or sometimes randomly the pedal wont go down. its stuck in the idle position. i think its the throttle rotor. i cant firgure out any way to get it to un stick.
                Travis, you need to adjust that small set screw/lock nut "Stop" on the t/b. It basically stops the entire throttle shaft assembly from sticking itself in the t/b's bore. Just adjust it up some so it stops alittle bit early, but not too much b/c if it's cracked open alittle bit, your engine will idle higher. Just look for it, right on the front to the right and just below the rotor.

                Dan

                Comment


                  #9
                  Im kinda skeptical on doing this....
                  I mean, it is there for a reason right.

                  So imma have to research this and get back to you.

                  As it stands now, No i wont be doing this.


                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Granite CB7
                    Travis, you need to adjust that small set screw/lock nut "Stop" on the t/b. It basically stops the entire throttle shaft assembly from sticking itself in the t/b's bore. Just adjust it up some so it stops alittle bit early, but not too much b/c if it's cracked open alittle bit, your engine will idle higher. Just look for it, right on the front to the right and just below the rotor.

                    Dan
                    are u talking about the idle screw? which way should i turn it? do u have any pics of it?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Sorry for the delay Trav No, I am not ref. to the idle screw, I am referring to the "Stop" for the throttle rotor. It's what stops the throttle rotor at a certain point, preventing it from getting stuck from the spring's tension when you let off on the throttle. I do not have any pics, but find the throttle rotor and look directly to the right and down @ about 4 o'clock (pretend the rotor is a clock). There's a set screw w/ a lock nut, you can adjust that "UP" slightly so the plate doesn't go too much vertical in the t/b, causing it to stick. This is set from the factory but since you have a JG T/B, someone may have messed w/ it.

                      Sorry if that's confusing, PM me or w/e if you need some help! If you can't find that stop, just hold WOT at the t/b (w/ engine off) and look where 4 o'clock is and you should see the stop, it's tiny, it's there!

                      Dan

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X