Overview
Over summer I swapped my coupe's interior from blue to black. Unfortunately for us USDM folks, the only black interior offered for coupes was exclusive to DX trims. This means that, unless you have a DX, you're going to encounter some problems when swapping interiors. Specifically, problems with door panel installation and a lack of power feature support. This DIY documents how I solved these issues in my 1993 EX Coupe.
NOTE: This isn't a complete step-by-step guide.
Mundane steps and photographs, such as door panel installation and removal, are not featured. Use your imagination and prior knowledge as visual aids.
The elusive 1990-1991 Phoenix Red DX coupe, with its infamous black interior:
Since DXs do not have power windows and mirrors, LX/EX/SE coupe owners encounter evident issues when installing the front panels.
Questions arise:
- Do you eliminate your power windows and mirrors?
No! Piss that! Unless you want to switch to manual windows and mirrors.
- Do you swap the door armrests to accommodate LX/EX/SE switches?
No. They aren't interchangeable without serious modification.
- Do you use the rear panels and ditch the front panels?
What a waste. Why bother painting your front panels? The paint will rub off.
- What about the Window Crank holes?
Stuff them with tweeters (see below), or cap them off with delete plugs.
I wanted to retain my power windows and mirrors. At the same time, I wanted to keep my black panels intact and cut as little out of them as possible. I also kept a prerogative against using any paint in my interior swap. Why paint door panels? They're high traffic parts that might flake if painted (unless taking proper measures; but again, I decided not to use paint).
So, I decided it'd be best to install a Single Switch into the driver's door panel. The same kind of window switch found on the passenger door panel, and both rear doors on sedans / wagons. This single window switch would eliminate my Master Switch to control the driver side window. It also meant I would lose features - the Auto Down feature and the ability to control the passenger window.
Aside from the obvious benefit of using legitimate black door panels, eliminating the Master Switch will give you a little extra legroom - literally. Your left knee will no longer bash against the armrest / Master Switch.
Awesome.
Tools and Materials Required
- Razor Blades
Box Cutter for large cuts and an Xacto for detail work.
- Needle-Nose Pliers
- Philips-head Screwdrivers
You're going to encounter small and large screw heads.
- JB Weld
Epoxy resin will suffice, but I recommend JB Weld.
- Two Single Switches (with adequate-length pigtails)
Found on any CB door panel besides driver's side. Passenger side switches recommended.
- 10-Pin Male Honda wiring connector (with adequate-length pigtails)
Three locations off the top of my head:
- 1990-1993 Accord: Heater core plug, A/T shift selector, etc.
- 1997-1999 Acura CL: Trunk wiring connector. Located behind the trunk paneling, driver's side.
- Soldering Equipment
- Soldering iron
- Solder
- Shrink Tubing
- Electrical Tape
- Wire Strippers
-DX Coupe parts:
- Pair of DX Coupe interior Door Locks
- Pair of DX Coupe interior Door Handles
- Pair of DX Coupe door lock Latch Rods
- Pair of DX/LX 6.5" Speaker Pods
- Patience!
Power Lock Integration
With your LX/EX/SE door panels removed, swap the following parts over:
- DX Coupe interior Door Locks
- DX Coupe door lock Latch Rods
Power lock functionality will remain in your coupe with DX lock parts. You'll eliminate the "LOCK" buttons, but your lock latch will provide the same functionality. (Driver's side only.)
In addition to exchanging your LX/EX/SE lock components for DX lock components, EX/SE owners are going to have to swap their 5" speaker pods for DX/LX 6.5" speaker pods. The swap is necessary in order to fit DX panels onto your doors. There isn't a cavity for the EX/SE 5" pod on LX and DX door panels. To some, this in itself may be a worthy upgrade.
Top: EX/SE 5" front door speaker pods.
Below: LX/DX 6.5" front door speaker pods.
Power Window Integration
Here's where the real meat and potatoes of this DIY are introduced.
I installed my window switches inside the door-grab / coin stow areas. You'll have more room to cut into the panels if you remove the armrests. Use a Philips-head screwdriver to open up your Switches. Separate the garnishes (top half) from the electrical switch (bottom half). Use the garnishes as templates to decide where to cut into your panels. After you've cut holes into your panels, seat the switch garnishes with JB Weld to ensure their stability. When the epoxy cures, screw the bottom halves of the switches back onto the garnishes.
Look at the image below for an idea of how to install the switches into your panels. Also take note of the tweeters I used to fill the window crank holes - I had to widen their diameter approximately 1/4" to fit snug. Again, JB Weld is optional for support under stress.
The above installation process applies to the passenger door panel and switch, too.
Wiring Your Windows - Without a Master Switch
Okay, now with the panels all switched up and ready to go, all that's left is wiring everything up.
Here's a diagram of how I wanted to go about doing this.
After studying the Haynes wiring diagrams and prodding around with a multimeter, I came up with a wiring solution. The trick to eliminating the Master Switch is allocating ground current to the passenger side window system. This will replicate the "ON/OFF" button found on the Master Switch, keeping it "ON" continually.
Lucky for you, I've already done the hard work! All you gotta do is follow these diagrams to make your own Master Switch delete harness, like the one shown in the illustration below.
Eliminate, Combine, Connect
Now grab your single switch's 5-pin female pigtail and your 10-pin male wiring connector.
Study the diagram below to get an idea of what does what, and what to solder together.
Take consideration of the wiring and pin placement of the 10-pin Male connector. You're going to have to plug it into your door's Master Switch, to match up pins and leads. Since the 10-pin connector was removed from something very different than a CB7 window harness, the wires and colors are sure to be entirely different. Match the diagram's colors with the leads on your 10-pin connector, and verify them against your own door harness wiring.
Note: Pay close attention to color patterns and pin placement if you're unable to find a front passenger door switch and pigtail. You can use any single switch / 5-pin female pigtail from any CB sedan or wagon, but the colors featured on my diagrams will differ slightly from your switch and pigtail if they weren't removed from a front passenger door.
Follow the diagrams below to construct your harness. You need to eliminate some wires (those which operate the Auto Down function), and combine certain pairs of grounds together. It may seem confusing, but it's all shown in the illustrations below.
The wiring isn't even an issue on the passenger panel. Unlike the driver door, all you have to do is take your original LX/EX/SE passenger door panel, remove the window switch, and place it somewhere in the DX panel. Since you're retrofitting the passenger window switch back into your new DX passenger panel, it's all plug-and-play for the passenger side.
That should do it.
Be sure to seal-up your new harness with electrical tape.
You don't want condensation getting in there.
Plug it in, and give it a go!
Afterthoughts: Another Method for Power Window Integration
Another way to do this is to keep the Master Switch intact and stowed away behind your door panel. You would make a jumper harness that would use a single switch as an auxiliary harness to tap into your master switch. You would need to keep the Master Switch intact to make use of the power window control unit, located inside the Master Switch. You would essentially be making auxiliary switches connected to your Master Switch. It would control your driver side window, and you could also tap into the passenger door leads to add a second Single Switch (to control the passenger side window). Check out this diagram to get an idea.
I didn't bother trying it this way. I wanted to eliminate the Master Switch entirely.
Over summer I swapped my coupe's interior from blue to black. Unfortunately for us USDM folks, the only black interior offered for coupes was exclusive to DX trims. This means that, unless you have a DX, you're going to encounter some problems when swapping interiors. Specifically, problems with door panel installation and a lack of power feature support. This DIY documents how I solved these issues in my 1993 EX Coupe.
NOTE: This isn't a complete step-by-step guide.
Mundane steps and photographs, such as door panel installation and removal, are not featured. Use your imagination and prior knowledge as visual aids.
The elusive 1990-1991 Phoenix Red DX coupe, with its infamous black interior:
Since DXs do not have power windows and mirrors, LX/EX/SE coupe owners encounter evident issues when installing the front panels.
Questions arise:
- Do you eliminate your power windows and mirrors?
No! Piss that! Unless you want to switch to manual windows and mirrors.
- Do you swap the door armrests to accommodate LX/EX/SE switches?
No. They aren't interchangeable without serious modification.
- Do you use the rear panels and ditch the front panels?
What a waste. Why bother painting your front panels? The paint will rub off.
- What about the Window Crank holes?
Stuff them with tweeters (see below), or cap them off with delete plugs.
I wanted to retain my power windows and mirrors. At the same time, I wanted to keep my black panels intact and cut as little out of them as possible. I also kept a prerogative against using any paint in my interior swap. Why paint door panels? They're high traffic parts that might flake if painted (unless taking proper measures; but again, I decided not to use paint).
So, I decided it'd be best to install a Single Switch into the driver's door panel. The same kind of window switch found on the passenger door panel, and both rear doors on sedans / wagons. This single window switch would eliminate my Master Switch to control the driver side window. It also meant I would lose features - the Auto Down feature and the ability to control the passenger window.
Aside from the obvious benefit of using legitimate black door panels, eliminating the Master Switch will give you a little extra legroom - literally. Your left knee will no longer bash against the armrest / Master Switch.
Awesome.
Tools and Materials Required
- Razor Blades
Box Cutter for large cuts and an Xacto for detail work.
- Needle-Nose Pliers
- Philips-head Screwdrivers
You're going to encounter small and large screw heads.
- JB Weld
Epoxy resin will suffice, but I recommend JB Weld.
- Two Single Switches (with adequate-length pigtails)
Found on any CB door panel besides driver's side. Passenger side switches recommended.
- 10-Pin Male Honda wiring connector (with adequate-length pigtails)
Three locations off the top of my head:
- 1990-1993 Accord: Heater core plug, A/T shift selector, etc.
- 1997-1999 Acura CL: Trunk wiring connector. Located behind the trunk paneling, driver's side.
- Soldering Equipment
- Soldering iron
- Solder
- Shrink Tubing
- Electrical Tape
- Wire Strippers
-DX Coupe parts:
- Pair of DX Coupe interior Door Locks
- Pair of DX Coupe interior Door Handles
- Pair of DX Coupe door lock Latch Rods
- Pair of DX/LX 6.5" Speaker Pods
- Patience!
Power Lock Integration
With your LX/EX/SE door panels removed, swap the following parts over:
- DX Coupe interior Door Locks
- DX Coupe door lock Latch Rods
Power lock functionality will remain in your coupe with DX lock parts. You'll eliminate the "LOCK" buttons, but your lock latch will provide the same functionality. (Driver's side only.)
In addition to exchanging your LX/EX/SE lock components for DX lock components, EX/SE owners are going to have to swap their 5" speaker pods for DX/LX 6.5" speaker pods. The swap is necessary in order to fit DX panels onto your doors. There isn't a cavity for the EX/SE 5" pod on LX and DX door panels. To some, this in itself may be a worthy upgrade.
Top: EX/SE 5" front door speaker pods.
Below: LX/DX 6.5" front door speaker pods.
Power Window Integration
Here's where the real meat and potatoes of this DIY are introduced.
I installed my window switches inside the door-grab / coin stow areas. You'll have more room to cut into the panels if you remove the armrests. Use a Philips-head screwdriver to open up your Switches. Separate the garnishes (top half) from the electrical switch (bottom half). Use the garnishes as templates to decide where to cut into your panels. After you've cut holes into your panels, seat the switch garnishes with JB Weld to ensure their stability. When the epoxy cures, screw the bottom halves of the switches back onto the garnishes.
Look at the image below for an idea of how to install the switches into your panels. Also take note of the tweeters I used to fill the window crank holes - I had to widen their diameter approximately 1/4" to fit snug. Again, JB Weld is optional for support under stress.
The above installation process applies to the passenger door panel and switch, too.
Wiring Your Windows - Without a Master Switch
Okay, now with the panels all switched up and ready to go, all that's left is wiring everything up.
Here's a diagram of how I wanted to go about doing this.
After studying the Haynes wiring diagrams and prodding around with a multimeter, I came up with a wiring solution. The trick to eliminating the Master Switch is allocating ground current to the passenger side window system. This will replicate the "ON/OFF" button found on the Master Switch, keeping it "ON" continually.
Lucky for you, I've already done the hard work! All you gotta do is follow these diagrams to make your own Master Switch delete harness, like the one shown in the illustration below.
Eliminate, Combine, Connect
Now grab your single switch's 5-pin female pigtail and your 10-pin male wiring connector.
Study the diagram below to get an idea of what does what, and what to solder together.
Take consideration of the wiring and pin placement of the 10-pin Male connector. You're going to have to plug it into your door's Master Switch, to match up pins and leads. Since the 10-pin connector was removed from something very different than a CB7 window harness, the wires and colors are sure to be entirely different. Match the diagram's colors with the leads on your 10-pin connector, and verify them against your own door harness wiring.
Note: Pay close attention to color patterns and pin placement if you're unable to find a front passenger door switch and pigtail. You can use any single switch / 5-pin female pigtail from any CB sedan or wagon, but the colors featured on my diagrams will differ slightly from your switch and pigtail if they weren't removed from a front passenger door.
Follow the diagrams below to construct your harness. You need to eliminate some wires (those which operate the Auto Down function), and combine certain pairs of grounds together. It may seem confusing, but it's all shown in the illustrations below.
The wiring isn't even an issue on the passenger panel. Unlike the driver door, all you have to do is take your original LX/EX/SE passenger door panel, remove the window switch, and place it somewhere in the DX panel. Since you're retrofitting the passenger window switch back into your new DX passenger panel, it's all plug-and-play for the passenger side.
That should do it.
Be sure to seal-up your new harness with electrical tape.
You don't want condensation getting in there.
Plug it in, and give it a go!
Afterthoughts: Another Method for Power Window Integration
Another way to do this is to keep the Master Switch intact and stowed away behind your door panel. You would make a jumper harness that would use a single switch as an auxiliary harness to tap into your master switch. You would need to keep the Master Switch intact to make use of the power window control unit, located inside the Master Switch. You would essentially be making auxiliary switches connected to your Master Switch. It would control your driver side window, and you could also tap into the passenger door leads to add a second Single Switch (to control the passenger side window). Check out this diagram to get an idea.
I didn't bother trying it this way. I wanted to eliminate the Master Switch entirely.
**Don't b scared be prepared for the worst**
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