zmos86 : 1991 Accord LX

[Jarrett]

Glad to see that you have the F20B installed.

Usually buying an H22A intake manifold is a bit of a redundant purchase to accompany an F20B as it's more or less the same thing. However, if that F20B was originally from an automatic car then you'll need the plenum from the H22A in order to retain your factory IACV.

As for the injectors, just use what came with the F20B. You'll have to get OBD2 pigtails and solder them onto your Accord harness, but that's not difficult. Then you'll have to delete your injector resistor box. You can either make your own delete plug or get one online like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Civic-CRX-In...2a5a41&vxp=mtr

If you need any more wiring help just feel free to ask me or post it up in here.

[zmos86]

Yes, I thought about reusing the injectors I got with the motor but I already got the p13 Mani bolted to the motor. The f20b injectors are to short to fit in the prelude Mani and fuel rail.

[zmos86]

I did a compression test and for some reason cylinder 2 only got up to 120 lbs. I'm a little concern about that. The other 3 cylinders had normal readings of around 200lbs or more.

[zmos86]

Duely noted, fuel return line must point up or this happens and fills garage with gas fumes.

[zmos86]

All parts received, problems starting.

Lately i have ordered all the parts i needed and have been working hard to get my cb7 running. when all seems to be working out right, theres a wall that stop you. These thing make me happy i dont work on other people cars, lol. Well back to the point, i have installed RDX injectors wired up per the wiring diagram in the repair book. also installed is a Walbro high flow fuel pump, aftermarket aluminum radiator and a H22 distributor. All this is wired and installed correctly. Although, i there is a small fuel leak where the fuel line meets the Rail. I did replace the water pump and timing belt prior the motor being install and i made sure everything was in timing. My ECU is from Pherable.net all parameters are correct for my setup.

The problem: i turn the key to start it, she sputters alittle and dies. i have a few ideas, i made sure the firing order is right. next i guess im going to make sure the distributor is clocked right. other than this, i draw blanks. Need some help, is there someone out there Dr. House of Hondas. Im working on uploading the fail startup vids, maybe they will help the diagnosis .

[Stoner51]

I assume you blocked off the Injector relay harness thing? The plug you make out of the 5 wires going to the injector box.

steve

I see jarrett already hit on that point.

What type of ECU are you using?

[zmos86]

Yes, I did block off the resistor box. Instead of purchasing a block off plug I made one. My ecu I assume it's one of the popular vtec ecu like a p28. I look for markings after I received it and apparently the stickers have been removed.

[zmos86]

I do have to note that O2 sensor has been deleted, along with the egr and knock sensor. I do have a wide band gauge which doesn't do any good at this point if it won't start. Not deleted completely, the connections are still there just nothing Is plugged up.

[zmos86]

I just made sure the distributor is clocked right. Timing is right. All connections are plugged up. I'm baffled, all this time I was hoping it would fire right up. That's not always the case.

[Jarrett]

When you say "timing is right" are you referring to the ignition or the mechanical timing?

Do you still have the H22A P13 intake manifold in the car? I ask because I want to make sure you have the 2-wire IACV connected.

[Stoner51]

are you sure all the plug wires are correct? Are they pushed in fully?
The other thing would be you didn't mis wire the injectors?

Have you pulled the plugs to look at them? Ie are they wet.

If you were a little closer I would let you try my ecu to rule out that. Have you opened the ECU to make sure there aren't any burned spots.

I am just throwing some Ideas Out there. I'm sure you've already done these things.

I almost think ignitor. But that little blip makes me think not. I don't think I got anything when mine went out. Just kept turning over.

steve

[zmos86]

When you say "timing is right" are you referring to the ignition or the mechanical timing?

Do you still have the H22A P13 intake manifold in the car? I ask because I want to make sure you have the 2-wire IACV connected.

P13 Manifold is still bolted on. 2 wire IACV. pretty much everything is "like stock." Mechanical - Crank, Balance Shafts, and Cams lined up. Ignition - at TDC the rotor points to position one (bottom left on Distributor) firing order 1-3-4-2.

are you sure all the plug wires are correct? Are they pushed in fully?
The other thing would be you didn't mis wire the injectors?

Have you pulled the plugs to look at them? Ie are they wet.

If you were a little closer I would let you try my ecu to rule out that. Have you opened the ECU to make sure there aren't any burned spots.

I am just throwing some Ideas Out there. I'm sure you've already done these things.

I almost think ignitor. But that little blip makes me think not. I don't think I got anything when mine went out. Just kept turning over.

steve

I need ideas thrown at me. the more i have the faster this thing will be on the road. im sure i have the injectors wired correctly. according to the wiring diagrams and the way the oem injectors were wired. the solid colors are pin one and the red/black wire is pin two. I do need to check the plugs, maybe go and get a fuel pressure tester, check for spark.

[zmos86]

I have spark. today i was going to check the fuel pressure but the rental fuel pressure gauge from Auto zone doesnt have a fitting for a rail connection.. I leaning my towards my timing being off. i did replace my timing belt with a Prelude timing belt, 155 teeth.

I think my next step will be to first off go get a fuel rail fitting for the fuel pressure tester. I realized, after the dozens of times being on creepers under the car, Im going to need a oil pan gasket. its been sitting for a couple months with clean oil in the pan and has started to leak a little.

[zmos86]

She runs

Figured out the my map sensor was miss wired. Oddly enough I figured it out after making sure no air was in the fuel line. I forgot to plug the map sensor back up, started it she reved past 3k rpm. So I noticed that it wasnt plugged in, I attempted to start it with the sensor connected and the motor did what it did in the video. After a bit of deductive reason, and a few mins pondering at the wire diagram I had the VCC and signal ground backwards. Well hopefully that's the issue, the battery needs charged now.

[Stoner51]

Glad it is fixed.

steve