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Old 04-23-2018, 10:55 PM   #20
ukemike
CB7tuner Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Marin County, CA
Posts: 223
ukemike is cool... so far.
I've gotten a cv joint back together without removing it from the car. It works best if the bearings are still a bit engaged. So put it in neutral and rotate the wheel a little bit. If the cup turns this isn't too hard.

There are three bearings on the end of the axle and they slide into three grooves on the inside of the cup. See this illustration:



If you disconnect the spring fork from the lower control arm, you can get enough freedom of movement to get the axle lined up a bit straighter. I use a jack under the brake rotor to lift the knuckle and axle up. It helps to have some extra hands, but I've done it alone. Then get a light hammer and tap on the end of the axle. It will go back in. If the bearings didn't fall apart it will work. If not you'll be able to tell as soon as you drive it *CLUNK*. I've found it is a little easier to tap the axle back in if you have removed the axle nut, which gives the axle a bit more back and forth freedom of movement.

Probably people will say I am crazy and reckless, but I've done it and then raced on that joint. Give it a try and if it doesn't work you'll need a new axle anyway.

After you've got it back in pay more attention to the inner boot when you are re-assembling the suspension.
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1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

Last edited by ukemike; 04-23-2018 at 10:59 PM.
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