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H22 SWAP: The Complete Parts List

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    H22 SWAP: The Complete Parts List

    What parts do you need for an H22 Swap? It's not a question that I know how to answer in a sentence or two, but it becomes pretty important to know the answer for those of us trying to swap an H-series into their CB7.

    Well, I've done more than a few of these swaps, and started out using a collection of wiring diagrams, incomplete guides and lots of question-and-answer sessions, usually on this forum, to figure out all the details. Maybe this info exists somewhere else for free on this here internet, but I don't know where and I felt the need for it.
    Yeah you need the motor and ECU and you should get a timing belt and waterpump, thermostat, etc., but when I take on one of these swaps for someone as a job, I need to give them a parts list that is as complete as possible, since I don't want to keep running back to the store, and I want things to be as reliable as possible...especially since I want my name to stand strongly behind my work.

    I know that there are many ways to solve mechanical problems, and that this list can never be 100% complete, but I want it as close as it can get. I highly encourage anyone with any relevant additional info to share it here so that we can all benefit. Also feel free to ask related questions if there's anything you need clarified or that maybe didn't get covered. I am considering adding a section on required tools for those of us who want to try this as a DIY project, but that should go in a swap guide, I think. This thing is big enough already just as a parts list



    For my friends here at CB7tuner.com


    My parts list for swapping an H22 into a 90-93 Accord, properly and as reliably as possible:
    _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-



    I. MINIMUM REQUIRED SWAP PARTS:

    a) OBDI ((91)92-95) H22 complete engine, including;
    -Distributor
    -Intake Manifold, w/IAB box & solenoid
    -Throttle Body
    -Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pressure Regulator
    -Good Knock, TPS, IAT, VTEC Oil Pressure, MAP (?) Sensors, VTEC Solenoid, EGR, FIT, IAC Valves
    -Engine wiring harness, uncut or cut with sensor plugs intact and alternator wiring
    -Power Steering pump & bracket (If keeping PS)
    -Exhaust manifold & downpipe, OBDI VTEC Prelude
    -P13 ECU
    -1-5 wires, depending on make, model and technique, will need to be run from the ECU to the VTEC Solenoid, VTEC Oil Pressure Sensor, Knock Sensor and IAB solenoid (exc. EX w/A6) on the new motor
    -Don't jam new sensor wires into ECU harness plugs made for pins, so you need an extra pin for each wire added above. Cut an ECU connector and a few inches of wire from any pre-96 OBD1Honda/Acura. This is a junkyard part worth basically nothing to them.
    *Optional but preferred; H22 Crankshaft Pulley, Flywheel, Alternator,Starter,
    Transmission (LSD if you can find one),(for these, F22,H23 & OBDII H22 parts are ok too)

    b) Accord Keeper Parts;
    -Front Waterneck & temp sensor, the thing on the head that the upper radiator hose goes to
    -Fuel Rail, CB7 or 92-96 US Prelude (If your H22's rail is timing side inlet/JDM)
    (Use H22 Fuel Pressure Regulator)
    -A/C system, Pump & Bracket (If keeping A/C)
    -Alternator & Bracket, or 92+ Prelude
    -Engine Wiring Harness
    (This will be modified to fit your new engine, note that almost everything reaches on H22 without cutting if you unwrap your harness and reroute/retape it)
    -Axles & Intermediate Shaft
    -Engine Mounts (Check condition before reinstall)
    -Some of the F22 timing parts can be used for the Manual Tensioner Conversion.
    -You can keep your Transmission if you want, though a Prelude one would generally be faster, there are many options

    d) Keeping Power Steering:
    -92-95 H22/H23 Prelude Pump, bracket and hardware, as listed above
    -Complete 92-95 DOHC Prelude Power Steering Line, HP side
    -discontinued by Honda, available at autoparts stores
    -I found one at Advance Auto for $100.99 (I'd swear it was around $80 before) at

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pro...ype=18&PTSet=A
    -A small amount of tube bending will be required to mate this perfectly to the CB chassis, gradual bends, not crimps!
    *OR you could have a custom (longer) line made from your CB7 line and the pump end of the Prelude line, by someone with brazing skills or a hydraulics shop.
    Make sure this is done properly since it's a high pressure line, I don't think you can seal it with hose clamps or anything like that. I suggest getting a complete Prelude line.

    -F22 Pump and Bracket will fit to H22 after shimming one bracket hole,
    but the pump will tend to hit the underside of the hood, at least on the H22,
    Prelude parts fit pretty much perfectly, so I don't use or recommend this method

    _______________________________________________

    II. REQUIRED TUNE UP PARTS:
    *These parts are necessary to ensure reliability, at least in my opinion.
    I would not want to do a swap without replacing this stuff.

    a) NEW H22 Parts;
    -Timing Belt
    -Balance Belt
    -Water Pump
    -Thermostat & Gasket
    -Fuel Injector seals, cushions and O-rings (if switching fuel rail), including FPR O-ring
    -PS Line to Pump O-Ring
    -Valve Cover Gasket Set w/ Grommets and Spark Plug Tube Seals (Needed after Valve Adjustment)
    -Exhaust Gasket, Downpipe to Catalytic Converter
    -Spark Plugs
    -Oil Filter
    -Front Balance Shaft Oil Seal Retainer Kit
    (Keeps your balance shaft and seal from popping out)

    b) All (H23) Manual Tensioner Conversion Parts.
    -some F22 timing parts are reusable here, see posts below

    c) NEW Accord Fuel Filter

    d) NEW 92-96 Prelude Radiator Hoses and hose from heater core to water pipe
    -Your existing Rad hoses MAY reach and be reusable if good
    -The above heater hose often won't come off without cutting during engine removal

    d) FLUIDS;
    -5qts 10W-30 Oil
    -2qts Honda MTF (for 5-speed)
    -2gal Coolant
    -Power Steering Fluid for Honda

    ________________________________________________
    Last edited by lucid; 02-09-2009, 01:17 AM.

    The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
    After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
    Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
    PM me and get it done right!

    #2
    III. RECOMMENDED PARTS:
    *I would suggest replacing or upgrading of all of these parts with your swap while you're in there.

    a) Synthetic Engine Oil (10W-30)
    -Mobil1, Castrol Syntec, Royal Purple, whatever you think is best

    b) Quality Engine Oil Filter, JDM HAMP, Mobil1, I like K&N for peace of mind
    -I have been told by people who probably know...DO NOT USE FRAM!
    -I have also heard that FRAM makes the stock filters for HONDA, but the JDM HAMP ones are better and come on the upper trim levels in Japan. I can't say for sure but I don't mind being cautious.

    c) NGK Spark Plugs- ZFR6F11 (V-Power,<$15) or PZFR6F11 Platinums (OE) if you have $40+ for the good stuff.

    d) Distributor Cap and Rotor
    -These should be in required tune-up parts but technically you can look at your H22 Dizzy and Reuse these if they are okay.
    -A JDM H22A Internal coil distributor cap can be purchased as a 2000 Honda Civic SI (B16) part,
    and may also be the same as B18 Integras or any (Honda 4cyl) internal coil TEC dizzy.
    -Any US H22/H23 Prelude distributor should be (and have) an External coil,
    the cap can be bought as any 92-01 DOHC Prelude cap;
    -Rotor buttons are all the same for the Honda TEC distributors if I'm not mistaken
    -NOTE; If mounting a US External Coil (w/dizzy) on a JDM H22, some bolts, brackets with longer hardware and a thermostat housing will be needed from Honda for a Prelude with the same engine.

    e) Oil Seals;
    *Most of these are a pain at any other time
    You don't want your new engine to leak oil
    -Definitely replace any gaskets or oil seals that you can see signs of leakage from
    -Front Main (crankshaft)
    -Front Balance Shaft
    -cam (plug) seal, consider a billet aftermarket one for less than $10
    -camshaft seals
    -Rear Main (crankshaft)
    -Transmission output (axle) seals, keep your transmission from leaking, not too hard to replace with motor in either

    f) CLUTCH KIT;
    -If you already have a good clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing, you CAN reuse them, if not, replace them
    -Any F- or H-series clutch should be okay, we use the same transmissions- except Prelude SH and S2000
    -OE Exedy clutch kits are not expensive,
    there are many choices out there depending on what you want or can afford.
    Do your own research or ask someone, and avoid buying total crap.
    -Get a HONDA Stock clutch release (throwout) bearing, even if you have one in your new clutch kit, I think they are KOYO.

    g) New Alternator and Power Steering Belts;
    -A good idea if yours are used
    -I like to use the H22 Accessories and pulleys (except A/C) wherever possible, and get new belts to match
    -Though it is possible to try to match H22 and/or F22 Pulleys to reuse your belts
    -Be prepared for it to take a couple tries to find the right size belt.


    h) Get the Prelude Accessories if you can;
    -Alternator, Starter, O2 sensor, MAP sensor, etc.
    -If they are lower mileage than your F22 ones and made for the engine, using them is a good idea
    -Keeping the (F22) spares isn't a bad idea either

    _______________________________________________

    IV. OPTIONAL:
    *These things are not really necessary for the swap, but I like all of them for different reasons, be it performance, reliability or removing the unnecessary.

    a) Performance Intake;
    -92-96 Prelude, brand not really important, EBay's good for this kind of stuff, $30+
    -You can use your Accord one if you have one , but it's probably not a 2.75"

    b) Solid Polyurethane Front Engine (Torque) Mount;
    -Our engines tend to chew up and wear out front engine mounts from hard shifting
    -Costs less than $20 in urethane and you get some reliability and engine response when shifting hard
    -This can be done with the motor in the car, at least check your mounts for wear

    c) High Quality Silicone Vacuum Hose Kit;
    -Replace your old stock hoses with, reliable silicone vacuum/coolant hoses with your install
    -Also ok for coolant & FITV bypass
    -Mr. Gasket makes a line of kits for about $30, in Black and Bright Colors

    d) FITV Block & Bypass;
    -Unless you live somewhere that's it's always below freezing, you don't really need this
    -It puts heat into the throttle body, and screws up your idle when it goes bad
    -Just run a new coolant line that goes around it and make a solid gasket to bolt between the valve and bottom of tb

    e) EGR Block;
    -The EGR system lets the engine rebreathe some hot exhaust gas and can clog the intake manifold or cause driveability issues.
    -For those of us that don't have emissions testing, I highly recommend this
    -Which is not to say that a well maintained engine still wouldn't pass emissions without EGR
    -I have swapped in an otherwise fine H22 and had it misfire at idle from a faultu EGR system
    -EGR Block-Off Plate (<$20), new EGR gasket(s) needed for install
    -For stock ECU and/or stealth install, use longer hardware and sandwich plate between valve and intake manifold

    f) Oxygen Sensor;
    -Not necessary, but an old worn out one can screw your gas mileage and performance.
    -Unfortunately they are expensive, usually over $100

    g) Other PERFORMANCE PARTS;
    *These are nice to swap in with your engine if you can afford them
    -Performance Header, 93-95 Prelude Si VTEC (H22) (<$100-$300+)
    -Chipped ECU (~180?, varies) P28, P72, P06, etc. chipped w/H22 basemap..tune if you can afford. I have had all good experiences with Phearable.net and would recommend them if you don't know someone who can do this
    -Now would also be the time if you want to get a lightweight flywheel


    __________________________________________________

    V. Useful Interchange info:

    a) F22/H22/H23 parts that are basically interchangeable;
    *Pulley dimensions will vary slightly and connector may change on OBDII parts
    -H22 & H23 Si distributors are the same.
    -Alternator & Bracket (90-95+ Accord & 92-01 Prelude
    -Flywheel, Clutch, Transmission, release bearing, slave cylinder/line and speed sensors
    -Power Steering Pulleys
    -Harmonic Balancer/Dampener / Crankshaft Pulleys
    -EGR Valves (cb connector diff.)
    -Fuel Rails (US ONLY ENGINES, 90-93 Accord & 92-95 Prelude ALL MODELS)
    -OBDI H22/H23 Power steering lines, pump, tensioner and mount bolts
    -Bracket for above- H22 should fit on H23 eng., H23 bracket will bolt on H22 after grinding off a fin on the rear,
    -OBDI F22/H23 Fuel Injectors (?)
    -F22A6/H23/H22 IAB system- box, solenoid, butterfly plate
    -F22A6/H23 lower intake manifold runners (H23 longer)
    -H23/H22 upper intake manifold plenum and throttle bodies
    -Ignition Coils
    -Most Sensors
    -Some F22/H23 timing parts (and a couple H22)
    -H22/H23 IACValves, connectors in slightly different spot, but interchangeable



    Whatever engine you have, these things should match it to run properly; INJECTORS, ECU and DISTRIBUTOR
    Last edited by lucid; 02-08-2009, 12:33 PM.

    The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
    After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
    Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
    PM me and get it done right!

    Comment


      #3
      Pretty good post. I thought all 90-93 accords were obd1?? Otherwise looks good.

      H23a vtec doesn't come with power steering so you have to add all h22 P/S parts and a flywheel. I know its not totaly H22 related but every piece of info helps! Your are very devoted to have spent all the time you probaly took on this!

      ^Click Me!^

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the input, I didn't know that about the H23VTEC.
        90-91 is OBD0 and 92-95 are OBD1 tho, for sure

        The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
        After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
        Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
        PM me and get it done right!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by lucid View Post
          Thanks for the input, I didn't know that about the H23VTEC.
          90-91 is OBD0 and 92-95 are OBD1 tho, for sure
          You are talking about civics, But ALL accords from 1990 to 1995 Were OBD1.

          Comment


            #6
            This is just the thread that I needed to give me an idea on what I need for my swap. Thanks lucid, I know who I'm gonna call when it's time to make it happen
            "I'm a dude playing a dude, disguised as another dude"
            "That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved."

            Romans 10:9
            ><((((º>



            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by bruno8747 View Post
              You are talking about civics, But ALL accords from 1990 to 1995 Were OBD1.
              Well that's good news, it's the only wiring system worth having if you want to tune!
              I haven't had a chance to mess with a 90 or 91 yet and didn't realize any of the hondas/acuras were OBD1 before 92. Thanks guys, I'll edit that above.

              Originally posted by bigjoegood1 View Post
              This is just the thread that I needed to give me an idea on what I need for my swap. Thanks lucid, I know who I'm gonna call when it's time to make it happen
              That's what's up, I'm glad to help.

              More details are coming soon, I'm adding part numbers and thinking about adding diagrams and pics. It's still not specific enough, at least on the tensioner conversion, where there are a lot of mixed small parts from different motors.
              I'd like this thread to have all the info anyone would need to confidently place an order from Honda to get everything they'd need in one shot. Then I can come here as well, instead of digging around for the same bunch of receipts and diagrams every time someone wants me to do what I do.

              The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
              After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
              Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
              PM me and get it done right!

              Comment


                #8
                Great write up............ I'll have this thread up when I'm throwing my H22 into the coupe
                I fly by like the coupe grew wings!!!
                Speeding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
                My coupe!!!
                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=152924

                Originally posted by Racer_XXX
                Excuse me miss, YOUR FUPA IS IN THE WAY!!!

                Comment


                  #9
                  im lost what is the final conclusion on obd??


                  THREE tone ya dig

                  Comment


                    #10
                    the 90-91 accords were ODB-1

                    Most other hondas

                    88-91 obd-0
                    92-95 obd-1
                    97-up obd-2

                    good post,

                    the parts you need other then the f22 tensioner parts are the 11mm washer and the timing belt tensioner holder (the little nubby thing)

                    I have the part numbers saved, i'll post them up.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by d112crzy
                      90014-P14-A00 (little nub thingy)
                      90140-P14-A00 (11mm washer)

                      Use everything else from the f22. Also, you'll be missing a few parts that you don't actually need. Like the where the springs mount onto the block, you don't need the mounting bolt nor the springs.
                      I basically ordered every part number that had p14 in it from the tensioner list whether i needed it or not. I also bought new springs and such.




                      EDIT*

                      parts list taken from collective racing
                      Parts list:

                      13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
                      13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
                      14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
                      14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
                      14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
                      90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
                      90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
                      90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
                      90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)

                      Here is a link for the parts list:

                      http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto....%282%29

                      Comment


                        #12
                        9093 had OBD1 sensors/harnesses etc...

                        90 had a OBD0 ECU which is why you'll find the little indicator light on the 90 ECU's as well as the service connector is female.

                        91-93 had the OBD1 ECU's with no light and male service connector.

                        OBD2 was 96 and up FOR EVERY car sold in the us.
                        wat?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          great post, this should be a sticky
                          http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...82408002-1.jpg

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by C91BLX7 View Post
                            9093 had OBD1 sensors/harnesses etc...

                            90 had a OBD0 ECU which is why you'll find the little indicator light on the 90 ECU's as well as the service connector is female.

                            91-93 had the OBD1 ECU's with no light and male service connector.

                            OBD2 was 96 and up FOR EVERY car sold in the us.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              yeah mann all this info is pretty awesome to have. From noobs all over thanks!!


                              THREE tone ya dig

                              Comment

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