So, bumping this up because I'm about to do the swap. I have a '90 EX sedan, and a complete '93 BB1 Prelude with an H22A that has everything swapped in. Got the 'Lude for $900 running gr4eat because the kid got hit in the rear quarter. No CEL's, nada, and it's a manual trans. I need to know if I have to buy anything off of the parts list or can I just use what is there, and also, what modifications do I have to do to the trans mount so the motor will sit correctly in the cradle?
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H22 SWAP: The Complete Parts List
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You still have to go through everything on that list to make sure you have it all, it's just like many of us here that bought a complete longblock from HMO/Tiger/whoever. To mount a Prelude transmission (which you definitely want to do, as the H22's trans is geared shorter than the Accord's) using an Accord mount, read this:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=74780
For the rear mount, use whatever bracket+mount combo you have on your F22 now. The F22's stock driver side mount will bolt up to the H22's block-mounted mount bracket.
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Originally posted by CyborgGT View PostYou still have to go through everything on that list to make sure you have it all, it's just like many of us here that bought a complete longblock from HMO/Tiger/whoever. To mount a Prelude transmission (which you definitely want to do, as the H22's trans is geared shorter than the Accord's) using an Accord mount, read this:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=74780
For the rear mount, use whatever bracket+mount combo you have on your F22 now. The F22's stock driver side mount will bolt up to the H22's block-mounted mount bracket.
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You could, but the huge plugs that connect to the chassis harness are different than the Accord's; even between sub-models, RyWire says they vary. You'd have to figure out what each wire is for for both cars, de-pin their large end connectors, and re-pin the Prelude wires into the correct holes on the Accord connectors. Sounds simple, but it's just a lot less of a headache to move the extra circuits (mostly VTEC-related, which the Accord's chassis harness isn't rigged for) from the Prelude harness to the Accord's and swap a couple of the Accord plugs for Preludes to fit the H22's sensors.Last edited by CyborgGT; 05-30-2013, 12:02 AM.
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Originally posted by CyborgGT View PostYou could, but the huge plugs that connect to the chassis harness are different than the Accord's; even between sub-models, RyWire says they vary. You'd have to figure out what each wire is for for both cars, de-pin their large end connectors, and re-pin the Prelude wires into the correct holes on the Accord connectors. Sounds simple, but it's just a lot less of a headache to move the extra circuits (mostly VTEC-related, which the Accord's chassis harness isn't rigged for) from the Prelude harness to the Accord's and swap a couple of the Accord plugs for Preludes to fit the H22's sensors.
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Originally posted by Hooligan90 View PostEven if I'm using the P13?
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The short of it: use the Accord's engine harness, it's massively less complicated. The Swap FAQ covers the necessary changes.
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Hey, Lucid, I got a quick ? for you...
I noticed throughout your swap thread, I did not see if you kept the power steering and ac. I have a blue top swap going into my cb and wanted to keep the power steering and ac. I know you listed the part number for the belts, but was that for keeping the power steering & ac, or without them? If that belt was to keep the p/s and a/c, do u have the part number for that?
Great swap by the way!Last edited by Accord1320; 09-01-2013, 06:49 PM.
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quick question ... i had a f22a6 at 1st swapped in a h22a4 and kept the dizzy with extrnal coil. crank sensor is on timing side. ok so now i have pulled the h22a4 and got a obd1 h22a. internal coil dizzy that has the
crank sensor inside
the
dizzy. ok so
heres
the
fun part since i will be changing all the
front seals timing belt balance
belt balnceshaft seal retainer ect ect. should i use the
jdm dizzy rewire it and ditch
the
external coil? or should i keep the external coil? and if i do switch to my external coil dizzy what
to do about crank sensor? change out oilpump plate and gasket and crank timing gear? or keep jdm dizzy? i have read
on here that
internal coil dizzys are weaker than
external? more or less what are my options for the
crank sensor?
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I don't remember having to deal with the crank sensor on mine - maybe because I've an OBD2 longblock with an internal coil? But you're correct regarding the internal vs external coil:
Originally posted by Ryan Basseri, HondaTuning MagazineIn the mid-’90’s, Honda began placing the coil outside of the distributor; a technique that produces greater spark efficiency for their larger-displacement engines. This elevated level of efficiency in turn lowered operating temperatures and increased fuel economy with a better, cleaner spark. The larger coil allowed for better recovery after the coil was discharged, resulting in a steady and consistent spark on high-revving applications; something internal coils struggle with.
Read more: http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...#ixzz2uoyQC8AnLast edited by CyborgGT; 03-02-2014, 11:58 AM.
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Originally posted by accord2nr81 View Postquick question ... i had a f22a6 at 1st swapped in a h22a4 and kept the dizzy with extrnal coil. crank sensor is on timing side. ok so now i have pulled the h22a4 and got a obd1 h22a. internal coil dizzy that has the
crank sensor inside
the
dizzy. ok so
heres
the
fun part since i will be changing all the
front seals timing belt balance
belt balnceshaft seal retainer ect ect. should i use the
jdm dizzy rewire it and ditch
the
external coil? or should i keep the external coil? and if i do switch to my external coil dizzy what
to do about crank sensor? change out oilpump plate and gasket and crank timing gear? or keep jdm dizzy? i have read
on here that
internal coil dizzys are weaker than
external? more or less what are my options for the
crank sensor?
Your car is an external coil car from the factory unless it was a '91 SE or '91 EX wagon based on the fact that it came with an F22A6. The '92-'96 Prelude with the H23A1 or H22A1 has the distributor that you need that will make everything completely plug and play with your setup. Do not use the oil pump from the H22A4, but if you do, just take the sensor off or leave it unplugged. It's redundant at that point.
Distributor challenges are so easy to handle with the H22A swap in this car that it's staggering how many questions still exist about it.
If you have an internal coil '90-'93 Accord (other markets had them past '91) then you will use the JDM F22B DOHC/H22A OBD1 distributor (TD-60U).
If you have an external coil '90-'93 Accord then you will use the USDM H23A1/H22A1 OBD1 distributor (TD-61U).
This applies whether the engine you get is a JDM H22A with a '91 stamp on the block or an F20B with '01 stamp on the block. It doesn't matter. If it's going into the '90-'93 Accord, reuse your factory engine harness and choose the appropriate distributor.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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sorry about the typing.. on iphone and just did it out of accident. i have the external coil i was just worried about crank sensor. so i dont have to have it? just leave the h22a without it and dont worry about plugging it up? it wont throw a cel? and will run fine without one? i think you may have misread my post. i had an fa6 along time ago. swapped in a h22a4 and now thats toast because of timingbelt issue. now i am dropping in the h22a and was wanting to know what to do about not having a crank sensor at allLast edited by accord2nr81; 03-02-2014, 12:39 PM.
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