SUSP: Manual rack

[GreenMadness]

^ you really would not need to, the fluid does not lubricate anything. The piston tube has wiper seals and o rings to keep the fluid in that section of the rack. The actual rack gear and pinion gear are lubricated with grease from the factory and never gets relubed unless you take it apart.

At 180k when i tore mine apart there was some aged grease, but grease none the less... i had tried to add some by lubing the teeth on the rack while changing inner tierods many miles earlier but the wiper seals are good and let very little grease get on the pinion, instead i found it packe around the seal on the outside.

so the PS fluid does not lube anything except a nylon piston ring, which has its cylinder removed in this write up causing nothing to slide against and need lubricated. i machined off the pistion but either way it accomplishes the same goal eliminating the only sliding surface that the PS fluid touches.

[moetan]

Good to know, my motor will be out soon for some service so I think I'll give this a try.

[uslspct]

Get a a 94-00 accord VSS or BB6 VSS, no VSS lines

And these ones don't need fluid running to them? Why is ours run like that then?

[Accrdwgnguy]

And these ones don't need fluid running to them? Why is ours run like that then?

Its purpose is to decrease the steering assist at higher speeds, so its not as twitchy.

[J3wman]

what car did the manual rack come on? can you post it in the first post

[short1]

Anybody else's seem alot harder to turn right than to turn left?? I did it a little different by cutting off the piston ring?on the shaft. I think I might try it without cutting that off using the rack I took out. There also seems to be some play in the steering wheel when driving straight, it wanders a little. Any input?

short

[GreenMadness]

did you get an alignment, and did you get the steering wheel lined back up dead on after you took the universal joints off.

i machined off the pistion also, so i am in same situation, i did not notice more effort in one direction over the other, but it did seem like the wheel would turn slightly more in one direction before stopping, i think the piston may have acted as a stop for right turns.

also, i noticed minimal play it wasn't actually in the steering but it seemed like the set up has a little more freeplay than PS which is to be expected.

[short1]

So i'm redoing the manual rack with the one I originally took out, i'm not going to cut the ring off of the rod this time. Curious though when you say "do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight" are you talking about the big silver sleeve? I put that back when I originally did mine and am now thinking that's my problem, just want to verify that's what you're talking about before i put the next one back together!

short

[HybridKyle]

what car did the manual rack come on? can you post it in the first post

There has never been a manual rack, this is a DIY for making your own from a power rack.

Nice write up, bookmarked for future use!

[Darkcloud]

So i'm redoing the manual rack with the one I originally took out, i'm not going to cut the ring off of the rod this time. Curious though when you say "do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight" are you talking about the big silver sleeve? I put that back when I originally did mine and am now thinking that's my problem, just want to verify that's what you're talking about before i put the next one back together!

short

Yea the silver sleeve dont go back in. Yes there is a lil bit of whel play but not much. Also there is an adjuster nut that you can adjust the rack with

[short1]

Thanks for clearing that up for me!

[gdout90accord]

where can i get manual rack?

[Darkcloud]

Thanks for clearing that up for me!

NP man

where can i get manual rack?

This DIY is for converting the power rack to manual. Accords never had manual racks

[GreenMadness]

So i'm redoing the manual rack with the one I originally took out, i'm not going to cut the ring off of the rod this time. Curious though when you say "do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight" are you talking about the big silver sleeve? I put that back when I originally did mine and am now thinking that's my problem, just want to verify that's what you're talking about before i put the next one back together!

short

thats not the problem, what you are doing is eliminating the seal either way.

its a piston, a piston ring, and a cylinder, if you remove just the seal there is a chance you would get metal to metal contact from the "big silver sleeve" and the piston... remove either and the problem is solved.

the "big silver sleeve" also acts as the retainer for the rack bushing on the passenger side of the car, with out the sleeve that bushing could walk out and end up somewhere in the middle of the rack where it would do nothing.

that is the only reason i left the sleeve and machined the piston off the rack. although mine is alot less reversable than just removing a sleeve.

so you see it does not matter which you do... what you are feeling as "play" is the rack moving.

under normal operation the piston holds tight with the outer sleeve and any movement out of round is minimized by the thin layer of PS fluid between them.

once the seal is gone there is nothing holding the rack on the passenger side you are basically trying to support the rack at the geared portion and just leting the rest hang out there.

edit: Short, I know that did not really answer a question was just trying fully inform you of the possible setups, incase the only reason you were rebuilding it was because you though you did it worng.

[Jack93prj]

I am sorry to bring up a old thread but say I have a leaking power steering rack and I don't feel like fixing it. I have another rack from a parts car that I bought for 25 bucks. I saw that I could get something called a steering quickener http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...DisplayId=8280. Could a manual rack and this steering quickener be a good combo?