i did saves me a whole $2 lol but hey every little bit helps and it covers shipping which is also $2. very nice of them to do this for us
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Just some clarification:
On the F22A4 and F22A6 (and the equivalent JDM/EDM market ones), the exhaust style is 4-2-1, meaning the "header" is 4 ports to 2 ports, and the downpipe is 2 ports to 1 port. The reason the O2 sensor is in the downpipe is because it needs to sense all of the 4 ports, and this is the earliest place to do it. The F22A1 header (and again, the equivalent JDM/EDM numberings) is 4-1, and the O2 sensor can sense all 4 ports right from the single opening in the header.
The "upstream" vs "downstream" O2 sensor refers to its placement with respect to the catalytic converter; if it's before, as with all F22As, then it's "upstream", and if it's after, then it's "downstream." Unlike the 4G Accord, many vehicles have both, hence the confusion.
To make matters worse, Honda decided to wire the O2 sensors differently for the different header designs, using a male plug on the harness for one, and a female plug for the other. There is likely a technical reason for this, but I believe the O2 sensors are the same thing, just with a different plug, so I can't think of a real technical reason, honestly.
Finally, the O2 sensors can be a PITA to remove without an O2 sensor socket, especially for the F22A1 as there is very little clearance to get a wrench in there. It can be done, I've done it for both styles, and I will say that the sensors in the downpipe have much more clearance for a wrench or vice-grips, and you likely won't need the socket. If you do need the socket, you can do the free rental from a local auto parts store. Be sure to use the copper antisieze when you install the new Denso sensor; it comes with a little packet. Be careful to keep it only on the threads so you don't damage the sensor.
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Did you search at all, Ryan? Code 43 has been discussed at length on this site... In fact, I've given advice myself to members regarding Code 43 and related problems twice already this week... and it's only Tuesday!
The low idle is likely something else. Read the thread in the Beginner Forums that says "read here first". Idle issues are addressed very clearly in there. Idle issues are very common in our cars, and they can be due to a number of different things.
Thanks, reklipz, for that information. All that is found pretty well scattered among the various o2 sensor and header threads on this site, but that's probably the clearest, most easy to understand summary of the differences I've every read.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostDid you search at all, Ryan? Code 43 has been discussed at length on this site... In fact, I've given advice myself to members regarding Code 43 and related problems twice already this week... and it's only Tuesday!
The low idle is likely something else. Read the thread in the Beginner Forums that says "read here first". Idle issues are addressed very clearly in there. Idle issues are very common in our cars, and they can be due to a number of different things.
Thanks, reklipz, for that information. All that is found pretty well scattered among the various o2 sensor and header threads on this site, but that's probably the clearest, most easy to understand summary of the differences I've every read.
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reklipz went over that quite well. Denso or NTK is what you need. No Bosch. (also said over and over and over and over again.) Get the one appropriate for your car.
A failing fuel pump COULD be the issue, as low fuel pressure would likely show a CEL... but in all my time here, I've only encountered ONE member that had a Code 43 in response to a legitimate fuel delivery problem. Usually, if the fuel pump is failing, the car just won't run.
To prolong the fuel pump's life, do your best to keep the tank at least 1/3 full. The fuel pump is in-tank, and cooled by the fuel... so a low fuel level will allow it to overheat. Any electronic item will fail when subjected to enough heat.
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Originally posted by deevergote View Postreklipz went over that quite well. Denso or NTK is what you need. No Bosch. (also said over and over and over and over again.) Get the one appropriate for your car.
A failing fuel pump COULD be the issue, as low fuel pressure would likely show a CEL... but in all my time here, I've only encountered ONE member that had a Code 43 in response to a legitimate fuel delivery problem. Usually, if the fuel pump is failing, the car just won't run.
To prolong the fuel pump's life, do your best to keep the tank at least 1/3 full. The fuel pump is in-tank, and cooled by the fuel... so a low fuel level will allow it to overheat. Any electronic item will fail when subjected to enough heat.
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If you have a loud fuel pump then you are riding on borrowed time already. Would you fly an airplane with a bad fuel pump?1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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Honda sounding like a GM ... hmmm something is very bad there! LOL...
My pump only seems to make noticable noise when priming, if that helps anything.1993 SE Coupe MRT - 1992 LX Sedan MRT
93 Accord SE Bose Stereo MYTHS & FACTS - F22A* Power Plant Removal(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
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Originally posted by ryandavis33 View Postim at the shop now getting a pressure test. the mechanic said the fuel press regulator is putting out 70 pounds instead of 40Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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ok so the mechanic told me that the coolant leak going to the IACV is what is causing the idle issue and the code because the engine does not know how to idle or something along those lines.
on the way home i got the cel to come back on and ran the codes. i got code 1 and code 43 so unless im wrong i think a new o2 is in my near future right?
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