Hello all, first post here and unfortunately it’s because my car isn’t running. So here is some background. I got the car in September it drove fine up until about the middle of October. I came out of work, went to start her and it would just crank but no start. Pulled the plugs and noticed oil in 3 of the 4 spark wells. Bought new plugs and seals for valve cover and spark wells. Still no start, this is while it’s in the lot at work so I start throwing part at this point. I purchase new pull wires and dizzy... still no start.. I decided to rent a dolly and tow her home, from here I have tested spark and it was good on all cylinders. I have checked fuel by removing the bleeder screw and have fuel shoot all over the place.. compression was a concern being that #1 and 2 were 175 with #3 at 120 and #4 at 150. But it sat for awhile and I had it in my garage for about 2 weeks. So this weekend I had some guys from work over we checked the timing and it looked good the crank marks lined up with the head while the number one was TDC and the dizzy was pointing towards the #1. We recharged the battery put it back together and BOOM! She started it was rough and it idle rough but she was running. It sounding like it was possibly misfiring, as it would idle it would vary between 1200rpm to 600 sound like it was going to stall then it would stall. It continued to start that night as we messed with it and in the morning it started as well. I pulled it out of my garage after a couple starts and drove it around the neighborhood it wanted to die unless I was on the throttle. I get home pull in the driveway and record how she’s running and then it died and that was the last time it ran. This was last weekend, since then I have gotten NGK plugs and blocked the EGR to see if it was possible stuck open. Still no start. Please help, my wife is on my *** to take it to the shop but I’m so invest at this point.. I have have done some other stuff I haven’t post please ask questions and let’s get this ole girl running.
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Crank no start, fuel, spark, air, timing, and compression tested
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Well oil in the spark plug wells is gonna be the seals that are underneath
the rocker assembly. So that should solve that problem.
How does your dizzy inside look? I wouldn't be surprised that since the way
your plug seals seem to be leaking, the distributor o-ring could be allowing
oil into the dizzy which would deff give you issues.
How about the fuel filter? Has that ever been replaced? Could be clogged up.
Also, take a look over the grounding wires for your car. Make sure they are
all tight & also it wouldn't hurt to clean up the contact points for them as well.
You said you had to charge the battery & it started running fine? What is the
voltage of the battery? That is why sonikaccord asked about the alternator.
If the alternator is on it's way out, the battery won't charge like it should.
Is the battery light on?Last edited by G. Wiffington; 12-07-2018, 03:59 PM.Keep Pushing..
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The dizzy is new and all the seals are new that could have been leaking in too the wells. No battery light and if it was the alternator then it should run fine and just have trouble starting not trouble staying running? Or could the alternator cause it to run bad? Also the car wouldn’t start off of a jump from a another car.Last edited by Coupe93cb7SE; 12-08-2018, 03:36 AM.
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When correctly operating, the battery only provides the power to start the engine. Once started, the alternator is the primary source of electrical power. If you have a fully charged battery, but a bad alternator, the car will start fine, then run for maybe an hour while it drains the battery to provide electricity to operate the car. The battery light should come on, the gages will start to act up, lights will dim, then the car will eventually shut down.
If you can get it started, check the voltage across the battery and from the positive terminal on the front of the alternator to a ground. You should see a little more than 14 volts at both places; if not, your alternator (or voltage regulator, which is in the alternator) is not working correctly. If you have 14+ volts at the alternator, but not across the battery, then there is an issue with your wiring between the alternator and battery.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Autozone will test alternators free of charge if you take it into their store. Test takes one minute.
As for idle issue, look into the idle air control valve being either stuck or clogged. I once had a surging idle caused by a stuck open valve fixed by simply replacing with a junkyard iacv that moved freely and sprung back closed like it is supposed to for $10. Easy, couple of bolts, some hoses and an electrical connector. Im sure someone here has done a diy on this part in the past.
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Originally posted by djALBINI View PostAutozone will test alternators free of charge if you take it into their store. Test takes one minute.
As for idle issue, look into the idle air control valve being either stuck or clogged. I once had a surging idle caused by a stuck open valve fixed by simply replacing with a junkyard iacv that moved freely and sprung back closed like it is supposed to for $10. Easy, couple of bolts, some hoses and an electrical connector. Im sure someone here has done a diy on this part in the past.Keep Pushing..
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Guys this is far from the alternator. OP said it's cranking but not starting? Two things you should almost without fail be checking on a CB is main relay, if you are getting the same result then check your ECT. That can cause a crank and no start symptom as well.The CB7 Collector.Team Kindred Impulse Member #392 LX Coupe F22A12013 Toyota Corolla S92 EX Sedan F22A1Originally posted by deevergoteDo you really need to make a thread asking if having your car like this /---\ will cause uneven tire wear? Try walking like that for a few weeks and see if your shoes wear funny! (hint: they will.)
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Exactly what I was thinking. The car will crank like crazy, and as I said it would start for about a month and I wasn’t able to tinker with it after the initial stuff I changed. So it sat for about 3 weeks, I had so friends over we checked the timing put it back together and boom it just started. But it was a rough start and a rough idle after about 5 seconds it would sound like it was missing a cylinder. Since then I bought a main relay and still no change, which is a tough pill to swallow especially since I feel like I’m throwing parts at her. Everything I have bought could possible be causing the issue and now I am at the point where I have absolutely no idea what it is... is there any possibility that something electrical could have some how fried and is stopping her from starting? Also she is still not throwing any codes and I have tried jumping the car to no avail..Last edited by Coupe93cb7SE; 12-21-2018, 02:37 PM.
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Your method of checking fuel is not sufficient. All you did was open the fuel rail bleeder and have fuel come out. That means there's fuel in the rail, but possibly not enough pressure, but most likely the injectors aren't firing.
So the car is not starting now while you crank the motor over right?
You can try a couple things. You can crank the motor and put a screwdriver on the injectors to see if you can hear them ticking (the ticking means they're firing) You might also hear faint valve noise and think that's the injectors, but it's not. The injectors will be a very obvious TICKTICKTICK when firing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_PBwp0dXFE
Secondly, you can check if it's a fuel issue by removing the intake hose from the throttlebody, and spraying some carb cleaner down the throttle body while cranking over the motor. If it starts running (it will be very rough) then you know spark and compression are good and you have a fuelling issue you need to troubleshoot.
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I understand that that isn’t enough to sufficiently test for pressure, but would that cause it not to start then one day start a few times then nothin again? I’m not trying to insult you intelligence I’m just trying to understand more. I’ll take a listen to the injectors when I have a second person around and see if I can here them. Also i did try to shoot some starter fluid in the throttle after it quit running that second time when it ran rough for about a day but it didn’t seem to affect anything. Also when we did get it running, it would start multiple time that night and also about 3 times the next day. Then I pulled it out of the garage and “drove” it around the block and parked her, then got out and she just sputtered out. That was the last time running, I have that on video as well.
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