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Old 04-05-2016, 10:54 PM   #61
Offroadr
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I was one of the folks that suggested you come here. Welcome.

Ha thats funny! small world
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Old 04-06-2016, 02:53 AM   #62
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can you post some pics of your ducting work? I have been thinking of doing the same thing.

I think the brakes need all the help they can get. I have been also been looking for some kind of scoop to put on the lower quarters and drilling through the body with a duct to the rear brakes as well. Haven't found what I am looking for on the web.




Won't have pics of the way it is plumbed in until this weekend. Hint 3' of duct per side is the least you can get away with.
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:11 PM   #63
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nice work!

what did you guys use to get that tar like insulation off the floor to weld you spreader plates in? That is some tough stuff
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Old 04-08-2016, 06:29 PM   #64
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nice work!

what did you guys use to get that tar like insulation off the floor to weld your spreader plates in? That is some tough stuff
HA! We bought ours from another LeMons team. They did a real nice job on the cage. Ask that question in the LeMons forum. Most cars have the same stuff, so many there have done it.

You should start a build thread in here so you can post your progress and ask your questions. I'd subscribe for sure. The nice thing about having the discussion here is that if you talk about doing cheaty things the judges won't be likely to see it. If you show up with a basically stock motor and a not obviously modded suspension then you'll be in B class with no laps. But if you start asking questions on lemons about how to disguise your new bilstien heavy duty shocks...

Not that we have bilstiens. I only wish we had that much spare money. Is anyone interested in making an investment that is guaranteed not to pay off in anything but thanks and warm feelings? OR... We have one team member that hinted that he'd sell his soul for a tranny with lower gears and an LSD. Any takers? one slightly tarnished soul for an H23LSD tranny? Well maybe not such a good deal, I suspect his soul already has a lien on it.
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Old 04-08-2016, 06:46 PM   #65
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nice work!

what did you guys use to get that tar like insulation off the floor to weld you spreader plates in? That is some tough stuff
Dry ice.

Google "removing insulation in cars with dry ice"
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:14 PM   #66
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I used an air chisel lol
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Old 04-19-2016, 01:57 PM   #67
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I used an air chisel lol
Would have been a lot easier with the dry ice.

Did you end up scratching the crap out of the floor? Probably lucky you didn't put a hole through it either.
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Old 04-19-2016, 11:55 PM   #68
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Popped right off, super easy. Did I scratch it? Yes, do I care? Lol no
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:15 PM   #69
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Does anyone know how much brake fluid is required to flush the system completely? I looked up the fluid capacity faq here but for brakes it said something like "top it off". I want to flush the DOT3 out of there completely and replace with some racing DOT4.
It took me pretty much a full 32oz bottle of fluid to bleed my brakes until mine were clean.
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:40 PM   #70
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It took me pretty much a full 32oz bottle of fluid to bleed my brakes until mine were clean.
Yeah it ended up taking me a lot too. We're using Redline 600, it ain't cheap. I have to say it is nearly miraculous and worth the price. Our brakes got so hot at our last race after the pad material all wore off that the backing melted and distorted and even with that heat the fluid didn't boil!
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:54 AM   #71
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Won't have pics of the way it is plumbed in until this weekend. Hint 3' of duct per side is the least you can get away with.

Dude, I'm super curious how you're ducting your brake ducts. I want to add them to my lemons car and it will be pretty easy on the passenger side, but I cant see how to route the ducting on the drivers side. The engine pulleys and belts are really in the way for routing the hoses.
What diameter hose are you using?
Can you take lots of pics of the ducting?

Did you remove the splash shield from the brakes? That's the first thing you should do to improve cooling.

I fabbed some up for my E30 track car and used 3" tubing. I documented it here:
Check out the 5th post http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=262155



Oh here's a pic of the caliper on my Accord, you can see the missing splash shield a bit, and like I mentioned, the Raybestos ST43 pads are lasting 2 or 3+ races
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Old 05-03-2016, 02:14 PM   #72
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good discussion! I pulled the shields off all four brakes, I also removed the rubber fender extensions that protected the airbox and washer tank when I removed them . i figure that will help with airflow when I get to working on the bumper cover.

Rear brakes I put on EBC yellow, now that I know I have Akebono calipers I can get front pads, bought the wrong ones, live and learn lol
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Old 05-13-2016, 03:28 AM   #73
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Race next weekend

Thunderhill is next weekend may 20something. I've been working on aero.

Check out the redneck splitter.



I also replaced the right headlight with a ram-air intake and we have the brake ducts installed. I don't have a picture but I also fabbed up a spoiler on the rear.
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:36 PM   #74
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I love the boat railing on the hood!
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:22 PM   #75
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Ready for thill?! I wish we could be at the same race
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:01 PM   #76
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Well we were doing well until the tranny died. On our way home. More later.
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:01 AM   #77
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Well we were doing well until the tranny died. On our way home. More later.
We got up to at least 51st place. I had a 4:04 and Dennis had a 4:01. It was running great until it wasn't. On the video on the last 1/3 lap it started making a whining noise and by the time he was pulling into the pit it was clearly over. I suppose we could have attempted the heroic fix, but I'd rather do it right and get all those other things done while we are in there.

So we're looking for a tranny. Something with some limited slip and lower gearing like an m2b4. While we are in there we'll do many other things that are easier with the engine out. It's gonna be a lot of work.

I'm going to edit together some of our gopro footage and get it uploading to youtube tonight. Might have a few things to watch in a few days.

Last edited by ukemike; 05-22-2016 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:18 PM   #78
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I've been searching around. Is there a sticky somewhere here about removing the engine and transmission. We have to replace the transmission and we want a new clutch, timing belt, water pump, oil pan gasket, etc while we are in there.
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Old 05-23-2016, 01:25 AM   #79
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When you find that sticky, I'd love to use it too.
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:56 PM   #80
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From what I've read about the factory LSDs is that they're viscous, which means any used one is going to be about useless at this point in it's life and they're not rebuildable.

I'd love to hear that I am wrong though.

I think you can get a Phantom grip for $300, or go for a real diff and get an Mfactory/Wavetrac/Quaife for ~$800


Was there any warning that your trans was on it's way out?? My race car grinds if I shift hard into 3rd but other than that seems good. I don't want it to blow up on the track though.
We run Redline MT90, what fluid did you have in yours?



If you are goign to do the timing belt, (it's easy, I've did mine twice last weekend..), you should remove the balance shaft belt and free up 1 or 2 hp.

Think about getting an F22A6 cam at the same time, I just did that 2 weekends ago and it gives a little bump in top end power.

And if you're doing oil pan gasket, you should get the F22A6 windage tray for sure.
And if you have a welder, weld up some baffling in the oil pan. I put a baffle in our pan, but I will add some more next time I have it out and I still see pressure drop on hard, sweeping left corners.

Gonna copy this H22 pan.
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