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Old 04-22-2014, 12:20 AM   #1
af_1132
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af_1132 : 1993 Accord LX

First and foremost, I will list those I need to thank for their help and support:
God for everything He has blessed me with, the love of my life, mom and dad, Eddy, Pedro, Mike, Ben, James and the rest of the Blacktrax crew, Deevergote, GhostAccord, tishock, jdm92_accorn, Stoner51, djcaz_aom, domesticated, F20A_CB7, sonikaccord, cp[mike], Jarrett, Johnl, illinois_erik, cloudasc, Corweena, Tony, Wayne, Edwin, Chelsea, Dallan and everyone else who has helped me live out my dream.



The Plan:
Stages 1 and 2 - Build a CB7 street car for drag racing, driven to and from the track.
Stage 3 - Build a direct port nitrous drag CB7 for the drag strip only, no street use.
OR
Finish at stage 2 and keep this car as an autocross beast.

Mods Color Key:
White = installed
Silver = purchased but not yet installed

ENGINE:
F22A1 rebuilt head
F22A1 block (308k miles!)
H23A1 Intake Manifold with double stacked IAB plates (to be redone soon for more air)
Synchrotech built M2Y4 with Accord 5th, 4.266 FD, and MFactory Helical LSD
P06 ECU with Hondata S300 V3
Innovate MTX-L Wideband 02 Sensor
Custom silver painted valve cover
Apex-i Power Intake with 70mm adaptor
Weapon R velocity stack attachment (for racing only)
H23 60mm throttle body
AEM 320 lph fuel pump, high flow fuel rail, and fuel pressure regulator
K-tuned RDX 410cc injectors
Spectre VC air breather
DC Sports 4-2-1 ceramic coated header with collector/flex pipe (to be redone soon for more air)
Magnaflow C.A.R.B. catalytic converter (to be redone soon for more air)
Magnaflow 2.25" resonator
Custom 2.25" Exhaust to the rear
Bisimoto Level 2 camshaft 0.400" lift
Bisimoto STD valves and valve springs
Exedy Stage 2 Cerametallic 4 puck clutch
ACT Streetlite 12.6lbs flywheel
Single core aluminum radiator for CD
Optima 34/78 Battery
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs and NGK blue wires
Cruise control full delete
A/C full delete
Windshield wash delete
Airbox intake chamber delete
FITV and ABV delete plates
EGR Delete Plate

EXTERIOR:
Black primed OEM style bumper
EX lip
DIY antenna delete plug and paint
Windshield wash system delete
Custom rear bumper cuts (for less drag)

INTERIOR:
Rear seats/seatbelts delete
Passenger seat delete (for racing only)
Center console delete
Interior pillar panels delete
Roof lining delete
door panels delete
Carpets delete
Glove box delete
Blower delete
Climate controls delete
ECU plate delete
Trunk lining delete
Spare tire delete

SUSPENSION/WHEELS:
Energy Suspension Hyper F System
Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers with swift springs (12k front and 8k rear)
SPC front and rear camber kits (1.5 deg adjustable)
Filled motor mounts with 80A Polyurethane
ESP Traction Bar with Torque Mount
ESP Triangulated Front Strut Bar
Moog front lower ball joints
TAS Auto HOR 11" drilled big brake kit
TAS Auto steel braided brake lines
Driveshaft Shop 400whp Axles
Centerline Warrior 15x7 Custom 4-lug wheels (front wheels for racing only)
Mickey Thompson Street Radial II 225/50R15 (front tires for racing only)
Kuhmo Ecsta XS 205/50R15 on Maxxim 15x6.5 11 spoke wheels


AUDIO/ELECTRONICS:
Stereo delete
Speakers delete
Antenna delete
Custom mount for rear defrost/hazards/interior lighting

FUTURE PLANS
There are really too many to list

Please see my live build document for a complete list of color coded future plans as well as completed steps.





























Race Ready: __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________











When I first started out: __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________





Progress snapshots: __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __




















Any comments and/or questions on my choices, racing, and future plans on the build document are greatly appreciated.

Thank you for stopping by .
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MRT
FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?

Last edited by af_1132; 07-08-2017 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:29 AM   #2
af_1132
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Race video archive

I will post highlights from the car's drag race life in this post.

Run from 1st visit to the track (1-26-14): Sonoma Raceway
Best that day: 17.18 @ 81mph


Run from 2nd visit to the track (4-19-2014): Sonoma Raceway
16.59 @ 83mph


Run from 4th visit (7-9-14): Sonoma Raceway
15.79 @ 86mph
Best run of the day was 15.71 @ 86.3mph


Run from 6th track visit (2-28-15): Sonoma Raceway
15.413 @ 88.72mph


Run from 7th track visit (6-17-15): Sonoma Raceway
15.377 @ 89.12mph


Run from 8th track visit (8-5-15): Sonoma Raceway
15.284 @ 88.75mph


Run from 10th track visit (4-15-17): Sonoma Raceway
15.327 @ 88.87mph


Quickest and fastest run to date from the 11th track visit: Sonoma Raceway
15.111 @ 90.41 mph


I ALSO DO AUTOCROSS NOW!

Best run to date at the Cow Palace Autocross: Mad Cow


Best run to date at the Marina Autocross event:
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"Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


MRT
FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?

Last edited by af_1132; 07-08-2017 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:00 PM   #3
Tishock
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Digging the progress sir and the videos.

Drag racing is not my thing but I thought you want to keep the battery in the engine bay?

Does that track not require a battery cut off switch outside the car when you have your battery in the trunk? That's the only reason I've never taken my cb7 to a drag strip around here for a couple of runs.

Did you resolve your AMR issues? I'm going to order my AMR's around June (my GC coilovers and Tokico Illuminas have seen better days).
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:00 PM   #4
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Not bad for stock...can't wait to see your progress
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:12 PM   #5
af_1132
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Dude, you guys really are the coolest. Really good to know I have some support for this crazy project. I feel like I am in over my head, and then I come back here and read up on some great information and I calm down .

The reason I relocated the battery is because I wanted to install and use the Weapon R Secret SR and the ram air attachment that came with it.





In the engine bay picture in the OP, you can see the ram air slinky pipe slithering down to the bottom right of the radiator. On race day, I remove the front right headlight and send the ram air through the remaining headlight housing. The velocity stack gets fresh cold air, and I'm testing to see if that makes a noticeable difference, seeing as the wind at Sonoma Raceway heads down the 1/4 mile in the opposite direction of the drivers.

I actually do need to get a battery cut off switch installed before I can race there again. Everyone is REALLY nice there, and gives street car owners a little time to get up to rules specs. Racing there is definitely the best $25 I have ever spent.

Concerning AMR, they still have not emailed me back or replied to my voicemails. I'm trusting Domesticated on this one, but I think it is time for another call. Everything they sell just looks drop dead gorgeous, but $1500 charged is $1500 charged, and I need some reassurance from them (maybe a road trip to Washington is in order ).

I really think with a perfect start at around 2750rpms, I could have gotten into the 15's on April 19th. Right now, I plan to go back on the 21st of May to practice for the Memorial Day Weekend Bracket Drags. I will have the Centerline Warriors and M/T radials on for that.

Right now, I have to get some new 15" wheels and tires so that I can fit the TAS Auto 11" big brake kit that came in a few days ago.
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"Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


MRT
FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?

Last edited by af_1132; 05-06-2014 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:14 PM   #6
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Raf99 is very helpful Raf99 is very helpful
Glad to see someone having fun and enjoying the site too

Keep it going
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:33 PM   #7
af_1132
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Yeah bud, thanks. I'm totally having more fun racing than I have doing anything else. Spending $25 to compete at Sonoma Raceway all day is the best $25 I have ever spent!
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"Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


MRT
FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:11 PM   #8
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I guess there was a miss communication on my part. I stand by what I said, but I didn't mean to insinuate to stand by and wait. I'd be calling everyday until I talked to someone lol. Get on it!
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:26 PM   #9
af_1132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domesticated View Post
I guess there was a miss communication on my part. I stand by what I said, but I didn't mean to insinuate to stand by and wait. I'd be calling everyday until I talked to someone lol. Get on it!
Oh, no, you were fine. I should have been calling the last week or so after I talked to you about it. I'm going to start again tomorrow.
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MRT
FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:34 PM   #10
af_1132
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Next Set of Parts: Early Sumer 2014

Here is the next wave of suspension, brakes, and tire upgrades + dual tip muffler, minus the AMR coilovers and the TAS Auto braided brake line set (which I also have to call about ):



I had a little low moment today on the build when I realized that those Centerline 15x7s will not clear the brake calipers the way the dish is designed. Im taking the car to the tire shop that wrapped the M/Ts to see what they can do about spacers and extended studs, which is how I assume I will have to fix the fitment issue. Any advice on that would be greatly appreciated. I won't hire them to do any work just yet.
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F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
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MRT
FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?

Last edited by af_1132; 05-12-2014 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:40 PM   #11
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Your battery wire going to the back is IMO to small. You should be running 2 guage or 0 guage to the rear.

Nice ride tho...I see potential!
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What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

Retro!

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Old 05-12-2014, 11:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accordztech View Post
Your battery wire going to the back is IMO to small. You should be running 2 guage or 0 guage to the rear.

Nice ride tho...I see potential!
Thanks !

Im actually using 2 gauge to the starter soleniod and 4 gauge for the fuse box. They do look smaller in the pictures, I'll give you that. I wouldn't go any smaller, that is for sure.
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15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:38 PM   #13
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Go buy some dry ice and pull the vibration damping material. Should save another 20-40 depending on how much you get to. There should be a lot behind the dash too.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domesticated View Post
Go buy some dry ice and pull the vibration damping material. Should save another 20-40 depending on how much you get to. There should be a lot behind the dash too.
Behind the dash too? Interesting, because I was going back and forth about pulling the dash out to remove the heater core components. Then, I nixed the idea due to a need to loop the coolant lines, the fact that only about a pound is saved, and the dash had to be removed. I can get dry ice pretty easily, and I do need to continue to lighten the rear half of the car, so I may just do that and remove what's in the trunk and under the seats. Thanks for the idea!
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15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:06 PM   #15
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I did it with my old Neon. I saved 45lbs. When I pulled the heater core I just blocked off the lines. Don't loop them, you'll lose cooling capacity. A lot of fluid will route through the lines without the core in the way. You'll run hot. I had me old Neon to weigh 2000lbs. I even re wired the entire chassis to remove unnecessary wiring and it didn't have a dash.
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:06 PM   #16
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Dry ice can be purchased at almost any grocery store. I spend about 20 dollars to pull everthing.
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domesticated View Post
I did it with my old Neon. I saved 45lbs. When I pulled the heater core I just blocked off the lines. Don't loop them, you'll lose cooling capacity. A lot of fluid will route through the lines without the core in the way. You'll run hot. I had me old Neon to weigh 2000lbs. I even re wired the entire chassis to remove unnecessary wiring and it didn't have a dash.
Ooo, thank you for that. I've never overheated and I don't want to start now! If you have an image, I would love to see how you blocked off the lines . Are you referring to welding the coolant ports shut at the engine?
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FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?

Last edited by af_1132; 05-13-2014 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:37 AM   #18
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No, I just blocked the openings with the hose and then plugged the hose.
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Old 05-15-2014, 01:22 AM   #19
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[quote=af_1132;3200074]Thanks !

Im actually using 2 gauge to the starter soleniod and 4 gauge for the fuse box. They do look smaller in the pictures, I'll give you that. I wouldn't go any smaller, that is for sure.[/QUOTE]

That's what she said

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What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

Retro!

Hater

I love nooBs...They make me look good
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Old 05-15-2014, 01:53 PM   #20
af_1132
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[quote=accordztech;3200271]
Quote:
Originally Posted by af_1132 View Post
Thanks !

Im actually using 2 gauge to the starter soleniod and 4 gauge for the fuse box. They do look smaller in the pictures, I'll give you that. I wouldn't go any smaller, that is for sure.[/QUOTE]

That's what she said

Really? Well, I guess I walked right into that one .
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MRT
FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s continues...or AutoX?
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