Rust repair?

[Wetop]

What would be the best way to get rid of the rust in the pic? I don't want to spend that much money on it if possible...




Edit: Sorry about the huge picture, on a phone again.

[cb7h22sleeper]

[QUOTE=Wetop;3043555]What would be the best way to get rid of the rust in the pic? I don't want to spend that much money on it if possible...

Wish I had your problem, at lest its not as bad as mine. Find a good body shop, that's what I'm going to have to do. I don't know much about body work so that's the one thing I would have a professional work on my car. I can do pretty much everything else.

[IMG]
picture hosting[/IMG]

[deevergote]

Cut the metal out. Weld in new metal. It's best to replace the entire panel (which is welded in.)

Any bondo/fiberglass fix will be temporary, and when the rust returns, it will be worse than before.
Sadly, a proper repair is NOT going to be cheap. Hell, I had Maaco repair mine (cut and weld), and it was the cheapest option... the repair failed twice.

[Mike1357]

If you're looking for a short term fix, there are companies out there that make rust converter or preventer. I've heard it referred to as OSFO. Sprayed or brushed onto the rust, a chemical reaction occurs and converts the rust. You can then clean the area and paint over it, but this is only a temporary fix.

Ultimately Deev hit this one on the head, to get rid of rust completely you'll probably have to replace the panel with a new repair panel.

[deevergote]

I've used a rust converter on the rusty butthole in my engine bay where my CAI passes through... it didn't work at all (I took a wire wheel to the rust as best I could.)

It's an option, but it's highly unlikely that it will work for very long, if at all.

[Mike1357]

Maybe a difference between brands? The stuff I've used before worked pretty well, it just took a bit of time to do it's job. It also depends on how deep the rust is. I've used it only on surface rust and parts I've wire-wheeled down first.

[Fleetw00d]

This is what you're looking at, depending on the extent of your rust. Having a body shop do this would be very expensive.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180806

[MortsAccord]

You must sand the area clean of ALL rust, then sand back 1 more inch around it. it must then be cleaned and prep'd for primer, primed and painted.

If you wish to rebuild it to look "like-new" you'll need some time with bondo, and the mesh that reinforces it. Body work cannot be rushed, putting on too much bondo at once is a waste of your time and money, because as it dries it shrinks, as with drywall, cement, and other things, it will cause tiny cracks down to your freshly sanded surface and allow water to get in there.

Bondo must be built up gradually, sanded and built on again, reapeating until you have what you need. if you've done drywall or patched it and had success, then doing bondo is nothing. Less is more, take your time and do it right.

[cuate01221]

Rust repair is cheap if you do it yourself. If you want a shop to do it for you, you will be looking at about $2000 to properly repair, paint, and blend. I did mine myself for a total of $400 and I am very satisfied with the final product. It has been 8 months and there is absolutely no sign of rust on my panels. I'll post a few pics showing whats involved in fixing rust.

Here is how it was before I started



You may also have to rebuild the inner quarter and rocker panels





I chose to not weld in my quarters. I used a panel bonding adhesive made by 3m which is actually better than welding. I don't have to worry about my panels rusting from the inside because of the welds and I also don't have to worry about my panels warping due to the heat from welding

Only bondo on the car is to make the panels look level





and finally here it is all painted

[deevergote]

That adhesive sounds pretty cool. My rust issues are recurring around the weld. That may end up being a good solution for me as well!

Body work that looks decent takes a bit of skill, though. Some people have the knack for it, others do not. i fear I may be one of those that do not...

[MortsAccord]

If you have issues with welding then it wasn't welded right or wasn't sanded, bondo'd or primer/painted correctly.

You have to be good at welding and have nice equipment to do sheet metal the right way, and its extremely time consuming. more so than the adhesive option cuate01221 went with.(which I like but Id prefer welding if I could get it done without costing my kidney)

Notice how he sanded everything back from the rusted area? This ensures that the area is clean and rust free. You must always peel off more paint than just what you see bubbled up.

+1 for bondo being used to shape a final form. It is essentially "mud" if you look at it from a dry wall perspective. that saying "less is more" fits well with bondo body work.

lol just noticed a nice tumor on that rear tire cuate01221. are you still rolling on it?

[cuate01221]

If you have issues with welding then it wasn't welded right or wasn't sanded, bondo'd or primer/painted correctly.

You have to be good at welding and have nice equipment to do sheet metal the right way, and its extremely time consuming. more so than the adhesive option cuate01221 went with.(which I like but Id prefer welding if I could get it done without costing my kidney)

Notice how he sanded everything back from the rusted area? This ensures that the area is clean and rust free. You must always peel off more paint than just what you see bubbled up.

+1 for bondo being used to shape a final form. It is essentially "mud" if you look at it from a dry wall perspective. that saying "less is more" fits well with bondo body work.

lol just noticed a nice tumor on that rear tire cuate01221. are you still rolling on it?

I still prefer the panel bonding because it is 3 steps in 1. Welds, prevents rust, and can also be used as seem sealer. It's been 8 months since I did this and still not a sign of rust anywhere. Rust will always come back because of where I live though. It's only a matter of time. :/

And no that tire was actually taken off the next day haha

And bondo work isn't really that hard, a cool trick I learned a few years ago is to use solvent wash as a clear coat to see how the work is. For example, throw the mud on the panel and when it dries, sand it to what you think is right. Then throw solvent wash on it and look at it from different angles. apply more where you think you need more and repeat.

[silver91]

For - cuate01221 - So, for clarity if I may - You've literally glued the new skins on? Also in the second picture it looks as if you're fabricating a new inner lip - did you use only the 3M adhesive for this as well? Thanks

[cuate01221]

For - cuate01221 - So, for clarity if I may - You've literally glued the new skins on? Also in the second picture it looks as if you're fabricating a new inner lip - did you use only the 3M adhesive for this as well? Thanks

Yeah, they are practically glued on. I welded the inner quarters because I was able to paint the back side easily. Then I glued on the skins and used rubberized under coating to prevent rust from returning for as long as possible.

[blazenem]

i need to do this with my coupe but no one makes patch panels