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Old 06-01-2018, 12:38 PM   #1
SlammedHappY
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Swapping F22a1 INTO F22A6 car

I see alot of threads going the other way, F22A6 into F22A1, but not the other way around, and yes i am sure there is a reason for it!

I started this project farther back than i would like to admit, got burried with work and lost interest, but now have a week or so off and not only want to move forward but NEED my shop back so i can move forward on other projects.


I have a '92 cb7 automatic F22A6 with a blown bottom end.

A friend gave me a Running F22A1 I would like to install, but from what i gather it is not a direct swap and some things need to be swapped with it to make it work correctly.

Can anyone point me i the direction of what needs to be swapped to the A1 and what the most efficient way to execute this? Both motors are out and on stands as we speak.


First we get it running reliably then we play with cosmetics and performance!
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Old 06-01-2018, 02:00 PM   #2
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The differences between each engine can be removed and replaced easily with basic mechanical tools and skills.

They are:
camshaft
valve springs
intake manifold
exhaust manifold
windage tray
oil cooler (automatic transmission models)

Pull the valve covers off of both and swap the cams around. You're fine without the valve springs, but if you want, swap those too. You'll just need a way to keep the valves in the F22A1 seated when reinstalling the locks. You're going to want to remove the cam followers anyway to install the lower spark plug tube seals that will come in any valve cover gasket kit you buy. No more oil in the spark plug holes.

Since you should check the bottom end of the new engine for sludge and damage anyway, swap the windage tray over. Perfect time to replace the gasket (Hondabond or Permatex gray in the corners).

The intake manifold and exhaust manifold kind of go without saying. They're going to be immediately obvious when you have them next to each other. Just swap them over to the F22A1 and use new gaskets. Use your existing wiring harness and coil, and not the one that may or may not come with the new engine. That will allow everything to plug up perfectly fine.
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Old 06-01-2018, 03:51 PM   #3
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The reason is that the A6 is rated at 140 HP vs. 125 (Corrected from 130 - see deev's note below) for the A1.

If it is just the bottom end that is bad, take the entire head with manifolds off the A6 and install it on the A1. If you want to, drop the pans and swap over the windage tray.
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Old 06-02-2018, 10:16 AM   #4
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Word

Thanks Jarrett & Fleetwood Appreciate the help there!
Windage tray? you mean the oil baffle? will do

Off to get a bit, There is a head bolt on thwe old A6 head that is rounded so i suspect someone has been in here before. I drove the car for a year before the bottom end took a crap.... Rod knock are flippin loud when they go and youre at a stoplight in 90 degree weather

Kinda makes me wanna jus swap the cam

Looks like a shop day for me today, fuel pump went out on the BMW so got that going too

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Old 06-02-2018, 12:48 PM   #5
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Yeah, no thanks on drilling out a head bolt on a $100 engine. More time and effort than it's worth.
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Old 06-02-2018, 01:00 PM   #6
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Get a set of the sockets designed to remove bolts/nuts that are rounded off? How many miles on the A6 vs A1?
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Old 06-02-2018, 01:56 PM   #7
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Fleetwood, I Blew the A6 266,804 mi.

i pulled the A1 at 120000ish miles

Lowes has a set of grip rite bolt extractors for like 20 and some change since i think my kid made off with mine, really don't like drilling out head bolts... either way ima tackle it here shortly after i assemble the other car now that the pump is in and working

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Old 06-02-2018, 06:34 PM   #8
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The A6 head could probably use at least of set of valve seals if you decide to swap the whole thing. Good luck either way.
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:55 PM   #9
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It may be worth noting that you don't have to swap any of those parts for the A1 to work. But if you do you will keep most of your power. I would swap the parts. It'd be easier when the motors are out.
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Old 06-11-2018, 09:34 PM   #10
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A6 is rated at 140 HP vs. 130 for the A1. There's no need to swap any of those parts for the A1 to work.
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:26 AM   #11
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Where did this 130hp come from? The Accord’s F22A1 is rated at 125hp for all years. The F22A4 is rated at 130hp. Granted, the only difference between them is the exhaust manifold, but let’s keep the information accurate. Especially if we’re going to be condescending.

Internally, all F22A engines are identical. That means you can bolt all the parts unique to the F22A6 onto an F22A1 and get that full 140hp. Alternatively, dropping the F22A1 into the car and reusing none of the F22A6 parts (including intake and exhaust manifolds) will only require the use of a PT3 ECU, lengthening the o2 sensor harness (an extension harness is the smart way to do this), and tucking the IAB wiring out of the way.
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Old 06-12-2018, 07:59 PM   #12
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My bad. Somehow I had it in my head that the 92-93 A1 had been bumped to 130, but I can't find any HP info in my owner's or service manual. A quick check on Edmunds (authoritative??) indicates 125 as deev pointed out.

(makes me want to convert the wagon to A6!)
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:12 AM   #13
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yeah because doesn't the A6 have a different cam (or cam gear), the black box for the intake & the header is more efficient right?
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:00 AM   #14
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I listed the changes in the second post of this thread.
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