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Car is in my driveway
Going to sell these XXRs to my friend an pick some wheels. I want to do RPF1s strictly for their lightweight properties, but I can't convince myself to get a wheel that everyone has or has had before. Plus, I don't know if they will fit over my old RL brake caliper set up that I had on my CB.
You'll need 17s. I hated my XXRs, when i had them. But your car has a unique color, so I don't think gold rims would look good or even bronze. I can't see white either, maybe white.
Installed the driver's door lock cylinder last night. Feels good to be able to lock the car again. Next is a full security system. I'm a Compustar fan boy, so I'll go with them again.
I'm kind of on the fence about a smartphone system vs the dongle. I would rather not pay a subscription fee as the most useful thing to me is gps tracking not 3G/CDMA/LTE car unlocking and starting. Then there is Lo-Jack which I would trust more than Drone Mobile. After what happened with my CB, I know I'll go overkill on the security/theft prevention part of the car.
Raf, I think the best wheel color would be a silver or diamond cut aluminum type finish. I've been leaning toward a machined + clear coat finish, multi-spoke style wheel. I'm going to be paying some cash for that as those are mostly forged.
I've put about 750 miles on Lude. The clutch should be nice and broken in by now, so I've been doing harder and harder launches. I can break these weak ass tires loose with a fast take off at about 2k rpm and spin all the way through 1st and quite a bit through 2nd. My next major purchase for this car may be some wheels. I have my eye set on some Enkei PF01SS 17x9 et48 with Hankook model something 245/40/17 for about $800. If my buyer comes through with these XXRs, I'll have a new set of shoes!! And that size looks soooooo good on a Lude!!
MEATY!!
Second thing is my fuel trims are going pretty negative and sometimes throws an EVAP code and a too rich code. My TPS also needs to get adjusted as it goes over voltage during WOT pulls. Other than that the engine feels solid. Wait, I think my timing belt is rubbing on something so I'll have to pull the covers off and find out what's going on.
I picked up an H-series Fluidampr. Yeah I know I don't need it, but I've been doing so well with selling stuff on eBay that I could use a small gift. These things are pretty rare. I haven't seen one for sale since the last guy here was selling one...about 2 years ago or so. I figured it would be a nice addition for the reliability goal of the build.
Personally, I think those kinds of mods are more important than any power adders. Anything to make the foundation more solid, for me.
On the subject of wheels, have you seen BB6s with 05-06 RSX Type S wheels on? Back when I was shopping for a Prelude (when I ended up with the DC5 instead), I was crazy for that look. Still am, actually; it's just too bad they're not an 8" wheel.
Personally, I think those kinds of mods are more important than any power adders. Anything to make the foundation more solid, for me.
On the subject of wheels, have you seen BB6s with 05-06 RSX Type S wheels on? Back when I was shopping for a Prelude (when I ended up with the DC5 instead), I was crazy for that look. Still am, actually; it's just too bad they're not an 8" wheel.
My buyer for the XXRs fell through. He couldn't find anyone that would stretch tires for him. 225s on 9" wheels is still to much of a liability to tire shops it seems. If I could trade them for a nice set of RSX-S wheels and good tires, I'd hop on that in a heartbeat! I love those wheels on a Lude, not matter how many times it has been done.
Not really an update, just kind of a thought dump post.
The fluidampr is 7lb exactly according to my hi-tech, research grade scale.
And 7.25in in diameter, using my recently calibrated measuring stick:
There is also no hex keyway on this pulley. An impact should make quick work of the pulley bolt. Note that this would delete PS, so wide tires with the planned SH suspension(lots of caster) swap would make this a complete PITA to turn. Maybe those RSX-S wheels are a good idea after all.
Meanwhile, I broke the center vent panel trying to remove it. Sucks, but I have something better in mind...see where I'm going with this?
The tach gauge is redundant and won't be used, unless I can re-purpose it for another function. There are a few more inputs that the controller has that I may try to fill such as EGT and Fuel Pressure. Then of course a dedicated A/F gauge will have to go in there. I'm thinking of a nice magnetic cover for concealing them when parked. It looks like it should flow nicely once it is cut and shaped. Yes, this is my inner ricer coming out. I need all 8 gauge spaces filled.
Make sure to tie those into the brightness control somehow. One regret for my gauges. Blue light shinning in your face non stop :P
The "brain" for the gauges has an illumination wire that I can tie in to. The day and night brightness is also adjustable from the controller. Pretty neat actually!
I finally got a chance to put my damper on, but there is a clearance issue between the frame rail. I'll need to take my sledge to it and give it a few mm of breathing room. If I decide to keep it, then I'll have to do some supporting mods such as stiffer engine mounts and a manual rack conversion.
There is also a 30% alternator underdrive, so no blasting trap music at idle. Speaking of electrical, I sold my soldering setup for extra funds since I really didn't need production grade soldering equipment. I may also sell my mil-spec connectors, grab a used crimper and pick up some crimp termination mil-spec connectors.
They were on eBay. I was randomly searching for cheap MIL-spec connectors and ran across them. I guess it was just good timing!
The technical term for them is cannon plugs. You can find all sorts of them if you search for them that way. They are pretty standard in the aviation industry.
I got tons of results for "cannon plugs." Thanks for that tip!
Raf, I'm hopeful that it will/can fit. I'll have to get some upgraded motor mounts for sure! It's not as bad as it looks on the pictures. I think I can get a good 5mm dent in that spot on the frame plus play around with the motor mount tolerances and try to shift everything over to the passenger side.
This also means P/S has to be deleted. I'm looking at the AP1 rack mounting holes and they appear to be close to the Lude's. If it bolts up, I can run an EPS system and have a quicker ratio.
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