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IAC Valve Leak?

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    IAC Valve Leak?

    What's up everyone?

    During this past winter I was experiencing a rough surging idle in the morning, unless it was pretty warm out - furthermore after my engine heated up the problem wouldn't occur until the following day.
    However, my car had recently been sitting for a while (I was in need of a replacement shift cable for my automatic transmission) and when I got her started back up the idle persisted through this summer weather and it was a bit worse:
    At first the idle was only surging from 1,000 - 2,000 while in park, now it was beginning to jump from 1,000-2,500 in park as well as while driving at moderately slow speeds (1st and 2nd gear) and it would jerk every time that the idle would spike.

    After digging around a little bit on the forums, YouTube, and Google I gathered enough information to assume that it was either a vacuum leak, a bad wire or of course just an entirely bad assembly. So, I recently did a little bit of exploring in the engine bay in an attempt to find the culprit that has been causing the infamous "Honda Idle" to my 93' EX.
    First, I went ahead and checked on my transmission fluid just to make sure that it was topped off and that the jerking/lugging was definitely cause of the idle surge and sure enough I needed some fluid. After correcting that, it was a bit softer however I could definitely still feel the spike every time, and it would sometimes begin to occur while stopped at a light.
    I ended up going to a junkyard and hoping for the luck of finding one that was in working condition (since apparently this problem is so common for our cars), unfortunately after I switched parts - there was no change. Anyways, I proceeded to clean my throttle body and sort of eliminate each possible source and ultimately after a day of working in the sun I noticed the weirdest thing in the world.

    Here is a link to the thread I was reading which read about setting your base idle properly..

    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=146239

    - I followed those steps and "bottomed out" the little plastic screw under the metallic lid that's around the little coil spring thing (I don't know what it's called but here's a picture - the thing with the blue sticker) >



    Anyways what I found was that when I would apply just the softest hint of pressure to the center of the plate where the head of the spring sticks out a bit the idle would immediately go down to +/- 800, perfect!

    My uncle suggested that I had lost a gasket or something, but I insisted that when I unscrewed and opened the little plate that I hadn't moved anything. What we ended up doing to sort of "rig" the fix was by far the funniest thing I have ever witnessed. We clipped the rubber grip from the tip of a glove and maintained the pressure in between with two pennies and just sealed the latch.
    I wouldn't necessarily have to force down a bunch or anything, but I noticed that I would have to apply enough pressure and cover enough space to stop the flow of air. Ultimately, what I'm trying to figure out is if there is like a rubber gasket or anything that belongs on top of it?

    If you guys would happen to know if I'm missing something, or if there could be something else that's causing this I'd totally appreciate some feedback. I've been contemplating really putting forth a bit of an investment into the Honda, but I can't imagine wanting to work with this car long-term if I can't even move past something as trivial as an annoying idle.

    PS. Sorry for the huge picture, honestly I didn't think it was gonna' upload that big..
    Last edited by ricobravousa; 06-27-2017, 01:29 PM.

    #2
    You didn't quite search enough on this site. There are number of threads on surging idle in the DIY section. The valve you messed with is the FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve). From one of the DIYs:

    This can be fixed to work correctly with two o-rings. At your local hardware store, they should have a selection of o-rings with the plumbing repair parts. A #29 size fits the cover groove; #32 fits the pale yellow piston. (Just to be sure, take the old rings with you to match the size).

    1. Remove the cover.
    2. Remove the cover o-ring (it has typically turned to a brittle plastic).
    3. Unscrew the yellow piston.
    4. Remove the o-ring from the piston (again, it may break like plastic).
    5. Install the #32 o-ring on the piston.
    6. Lightly lubricate the inside of the FITV with WD40 or other spray lubricant (this helps the new o-ring slide as you thread the piston back in).
    7. Install the piston. Turn it all the way down, then back off about 2 complete turns. This should put your cold idle between 1500 and 2000 rpm.
    8. Install the cover o-ring in the groove.
    9. Install the cover.

    If the cold idle is too high/low for your taste, turn the piston out to increase the cold idle speed, in to decrease.

    For more information on operation and complete disassembly/reassembly of the FITV: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206012
    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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      #3
      Whew, Life Saver

      Appreciate it broadie! Couldn't have laid it out better for me.

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        #4
        For anyone who's looking over this or is curious -

        I followed the steps mentioned above ^
        This helped the issue as far as me actually being in drive and getting a terrible spike or a feeling like the car was da*n near jumping gears.. Also, it did sort of lower my base idle RPM (it was at like 2,000 on cold start 1,500 when it warmed up, then it went down to about 1,200 consistently) However it did not resolve the issue with the spiking idle in park.

        Now, many people have probably searched this problem on YouTube and seen a video by "EricTheCarGuy"..

        Long story short - Best advice, go ahead and replace the IAC Valve.

        Quite honestly I was thinking that it would be the solution from the beginning, but recently i've been on quite a budget and the local autoparts stores (O'Reilly, Advance Auto, Autozone) were asking for $140-200 for the part.
        I found one at the local "Pull-A-Part" for about $30.
        Of course, it's not reallly safe to assume that anything at a junkyard is any good - but i'd rather save $100 and roll the dice than get robbed blind.

        Ended up being no good, and I was frustrated - so I decided to look around online and try and find it from another source. My other go-to before eBay or Amazon would have been Rockauto.com, but even THEY wanted to charge about $120 for the piece.

        After about 15-20 minutes of google searching I finally found another website. (carparts.com) Now, at first sight I was a bit skeptical - the website was very staightforward but it just seemed a bit sketchy.

        Anyways, the price was lovely $35 (including shipping which was free).
        http://www.carparts.com/details/Hond...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
        A week later, i've got the part - plug it in, and the CB7 is running like a f*cking champ! My idle is at like 600 RPM and it just sounds so smooth.
        Last edited by ricobravousa; 07-31-2017, 07:04 PM.

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