Transmission Related Clunk after new Exedy Clutch

[af_1132]

Car: '99 CG5 EX
Engine: F23A1
Transmission: P2A8 manual
290k original miles on the motor and trans.

I brought it to a trusted shop (Honda and Acura specialists) to replace the worn out clutch. The clutch that was in there had worn to the point of slipping under anything but the lightest accel. pedal action once in gear. The shop replaces with Exedy OE clutches, and I was happy to hear that. They said that was the plan in my case, and that the flywheel would be resurfaced as well.

Right away, I noticed that clutch pedal pressure was decidedly less than before, and the engagement point is very different, but I did my best to get used to it. Then, a week into the new clutch (which I am not beating on, by the way), the car started to make a "clunk", sometimes "cu-clunk" sound right as the engine fired up when starting the car. I also discovered a rattle when engaging into first and 2nd, and this sounds very similar to tiny, repeated versions of the "clunk". I also heard the "clunk" when coasting in 2nd gear and then placing a little pressure on the accel. pedal to keep the same coasting speed. Lastly, I knew I had to do something when it popped out of 5th gear on the freeway, after never popping out of any gears except first once (on the old clutch with a bad engagement on my part).

Here are the clunk sounds at start up from different points around the front of the car:

1. Placing the recorder at the top-passenger side corner of the closed hood.
2. Placing the recorder underneath the transmission. You can't hear it at all, but I definitely heard it from the driver's seat.
3. Placing the recorder in the driver's side wheel.

I've started some investigating:

1. The clutch fluid level is full.
2. The clutch engagement seems smooth, just different than before (here is a video of the slave cylinder action when clutch is depressed).
2. All the engine mounts are in great shape.
3. All front end bushings are intact and all ball joint boots are without tears.
4. Both axles can be rotated freely when the transmission is in neutral, and what I consider a "normal" gear sound can be heard rotating both ways (here is the video for that test, image is mirrored). Let me know if you think that is not normal.
5. The trans. is full, and I mean FULL, of transmission fluid, and most likely Honda MTF. When the car was lifted in the front only, I loosened the fill bolt, and it came spewing out when I lost the bolt in my hand. I had to wash it off, since I have a dirt driveway, before I put it back on, so I lost about an 8oz. glass full of MTF. I just ordered some more on rush shipping.

I'm not sure what else to do, so I am here.

For all those who use Exedy OEM replacements, is this just a part of the break-in process? The whole clunking sound is never the same twice, and seems to be progressing towards a quieter double clunk on startup, and more rattling when engaging first and second (more prevalent when the engine is cold). If not, then would any of you be able to point me in the right direction? I know I haven't checked everything yet.

Thank you in advance for your help.

[Lucien]

I'm still learning about clutch feel and manual trans component noises, so i can't offer any technical help. I would suggest calling up the shop to let them know you're concerned and would like to bring in the car for them to check.

[Raf99]

I had this happen before and it was because they didn't tighten the transmission bolts on the passenger side mount. You can't tell there is movement there and you can't put enough force to move the engine tranny but when driving it was there.

You need to take this back to the shop that did it ASAP! Cluck = bad. You should not have any clunking sounds period.

[Lucien]

I had this happen before and it was because they didn't tighten the transmission bolts on the passenger side mount. You can't tell there is movement there and you can't put enough force to move the engine tranny but when driving it was there.

You need to take this back to the shop that did it ASAP! Cluck = bad. You should not have any clunking sounds period.

Interesting. I'm gonna double check my mounts for bind and torque spec. I also have a random clunk up front and have been replacing most of my front suspension, both because it's needed and in hopes of ridding the car of the clunk which definitely feels like a fore/aft shifting upon load. A mount being loose or binding makes sense!

I'm also going to check/replace my front sway bushings, radius rod bushings, lower control arms and tie rods. If that and adjusting the mounts doesn't fix the clunk, i'm gonna sell/trade for a 4 door. lol

[af_1132]

Thanks for responding, gents. I did what you suggested, and they took it right away like the good shop that they are.

They got it on the lift and immediately realized the problem when they tapped the exhaust: the honeycomb insert in the cat had broken off and is loose in the cat housing. No wonder the clunk was happening when the exhaust system was under structural pressure.

Luckily, this is the LEV emissions version of '99, whose cats can run $800, and not the ULEV version starting in '01 whose cats can run $1300. I'll be forking out some many couples of Benjamins for a new cat, but don't need to for a while, since it was smogged a year ago.

[Lucien]

Huh. Wouldn't have thought of that one without lift access. Glad they figured it out.

[Domesticated]

Uhh, why is the cat so expensive? The should be like 120 dollars?

[af_1132]

Huh. Wouldn't have thought of that one without lift access. Glad they figured it out.

Me too, even though my heart sank a little when he hit the cat with the back of his fist. But, life goes on and my kids will see the inside of this car.

Uhh, why is the cat so expensive? The should be like 120 dollars?

Because California, welcome to the Honda LEV and ULEV project of the turn of the millennium.

Gosh, if it wasn't so dang gorgeous here, and if all my family and friends weren't here, and there weren't so many famous race tracks and car related shows, and God didn't have me here, I would move to England!

Interestingly enough, Majestic doesn't have a KL branch of parts available for the '99 Accord. The part for the KA5MT version is 18160-PAA-305, and it's 501.91. On top of that, there is a $150.00 core charge.

Where did you get your price? I would love to know if that's the real thing.

When I told the two shop mechanics that I would just go to Majestic, they said, "yeah, you might get a better price there." Well, $751.00 up front is a little better.

Please excuse the somewhat confusing seriousness of this post. This is what happens when you watch Prison Break for about 3 hours straight.

[Domesticated]

Huh, Idk anything about that stuff. I think I paid 100 for mine and most straight through style ones are around 100-150. Idk what's special about a CA cat, but that is a stupid amount to spend on one. IMO...

[af_1132]

It is, considering what's in these cats. It is not justified, only explained by the sad and sorry state of California Politics.

This is why people steal cats in California. My friend had an '02 4-runner, and both cats got stolen. The price for replacement was enough to convince him to sell.

[Lucien]

Not for nothin', dude, but i had to replace basically the whole exhaust when i bought my cb and i paid $150 for the cat. Took the car to smog the next day and it passed with flying colors, both in readings and the visual.

If the $150 versions work just as well under inspection as the required $700 units, why buy the latter? Unless it's more of a consideration of ethics, in which case the exorbitant cost is less critical than the possible environmental damage.

In Orange County, it's pretty well known that you just have to hit up one of the many exhaust shops in LA to get "grey market" parts/work done and many people do, because it's actually affordable and makes a lot more sense than buying a part that costs 4x as much for no discernable difference.

[af_1132]

So you bought your cat from one of those shops? Well, that's a lot better than what some homies do out here, with their cat-less systems that sound like old fart.

Another thing to consider is longevity. The car is at stock height, so I don't have to worry about bottoming out, but I do have to worry about longevity under daily driving. I've heard that the cheap cats don't last as long in general, but that would make sense.

I appreciate the conversation, guys.

[Raf99]

Glad you got it sorted out!

[Lucien]

So you bought your cat from one of those shops? Well, that's a lot better than what some homies do out here, with their cat-less systems that sound like old fart.

Another thing to consider is longevity. The car is at stock height, so I don't have to worry about bottoming out, but I do have to worry about longevity under daily driving. I've heard that the cheap cats don't last as long in general, but that would make sense.

I appreciate the conversation, guys.

Yep, got mine from an exhaust shop in LA. Dude guaranteed it would pass smog so long as my other emissions parts were up to snuff, or he'd refund my money. Worked great and haven't had a problem since. It hasn't been long enough for me to speak on it's longevity, though.

I would just call around or google local exhaust only shops until you hit a winner.