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Old 06-17-2011, 06:18 AM   #1
KeeleDesign
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Automatic Transmission FAQs

The Electronic Automatic Transmission - Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.

(this is an accumilated ammount of information that we as a group will continue adding to)

D4 blinks , S blinks what am I going to do?
The solution is , go outside dressed in a pink tutu and impress the hell out of everybody.


Easy to diagnose the codes. It's very similar from pulling the ECU codes , except that either the D4 or S will blink.

For 90/91 equipped with the "S" , the S will blink.
For 92/93 the D4 will blink.

CODES:

1: Faulty , Disconnected or shorted lock-up solenoid A
2: Faulty , Disconnected or shorted lock-up solenoid B
3: Disconnected throttle angle sensor
4: Speed Sensor
5: Console switch
6: Off Console switch
7: Shift Solenoid A
8: Shift Solenoid B
9: NC Speed Sensor
10: Water Temperature Sensor
11: Ignition Coil
14: FAS Wire , PGMFI
15: NM Speed Sensor



Statistics



Type: Mechanical/Electronic
Transmission Diagnostic trouble code: 1,2,7,8,9, and/or 15
Under the hood: Yes, TCU is under carpet.
Destructive: No
Manufactured: Japan
Cars affected: Accord 90-93
Overall repair ease: Medium
Reported incidents: High
System impact: Low
Information available: Low

Overview



The purpose and function of the transmission -
The Honda Automatic transmission is designed to allow the engine run in a favorable speed range in spite of varying acceleration and terrain. The Automatic transmission also allows the wheel to grip bad, loose or slippery roads, to provide engine braking and to protect the motor from excessive lugging.

The 90-93 Accord is a modern vehicle that relies on the computer to determine shifting points to increase comfort and safety. Without the computer the transmission won't shift and the car will simply move at a snail's pace or will simply default to limp mode, which can either be 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. For example, a faulty transmission computer could cause the car to suddenly shift into lower gear while driving. This causes the car to drop in speed while the RPM shoots up. With other cases, the car will have a hard time accelerating from a stop unless the car is first manually shift to D2. The symptoms are followed by the 'S' or 'D4' shifter status light on the instrument panel blinking, or lights up or doesn't light up at all.

If the car won't shift into correct gears and displays a self-diagnostic light most likely the fault is not with the transmission. Sometimes a clattering sound may also be heard in the cockpit. This may be the sound of the transmission interlock system misbehaving, which may indicate a bad TCU.

Do not replace the transmission without first confirming the situation electronically. The fault is usually the Automatic Transmission Control Unit (also known as the automatic transmission computer or TCU/TCM.)









Proper operation: The car starts at first gear at half throttle.

When the speed reaches about 17 - 21-mph the car shifts to second gear.
When the speed reaches about 35 - 39-mph shifts to third gear.
When the speed reaches about 54 - 60-mph the car shifts to fourth gear.
When the speed reaches 60 - 65-mph or more the lock up torque converter engages. This is felt as a slight nudge. Shift sequence ends.
The rpm may range from 2000 - 5000 before shifting depending on the throttle position. The 90-93 Accord can stay up to 68-mph in second gear.
If there is a problem with the input or output in the A/T control unit the D4 or S light in the gauge assembly will blink. However, some PGM-FI problem will also make the D4 light in the gauge assembly blink. If there is a problem with the emission fuel control system the code will have to be retrieved from the check engine light first. Repairing the emission fuel control system is first priority. After repairing the PGM-FI system then reset the A/T unit's memory.



Problem: The usual problem with the Honda Accord transmission, namely the 90,91, -, - Accord, is a bad transmission computer. What happens is that the transmission computer has a couple cheap parts that fail. The failing parts may or may not automatically put the TCU into a saftey (limp) mode (aka, the "fail safe strategy.") The three known failed components are two resistors and a capacitor inside the transmission computer. The symptoms are of several types. The car "S" light or "D4" is on (just stays on D4 no matter what gear is selected) or blinking and the transmission won't shift into any gears or sometimes stuck on a certain gear. The trouble codes could be 1,2,7,8,9,15 or None. Shifter interlock control unit buzzes. When the driver steps on the gas the rpm goes high but the car refuses to move at the expected speed. By resetting the TCU, either by removing the fuse for a certain period or by disconnecting the negative battery for 5 to 10 seconds will eliminate the problem, but only temporarily.





TCU/TCM Fix


The resistors R41, R42, R43, are overheated or burned and capacitors C27, C28, C32, C33, C5 leaking or shorted. Some resistors will be burned off to the point where no one can determine the values. A common sense approach is to consult a working TCU and read the color code on the resistors or start with the highest resistance and go down. Find the best wattage resistor or the best voltage capacitor that can fit.



The problem originates with the electrolytic capacitors leaking. Often, the capacitor short circuits frying other components such as your resistor. Another words, the burned resistor is a result of another component failure, namely the capacitor. The fix is to replace the bad parts. See the values below.


Parts values: R41 is most likely 15 Ohms; R42 is 15 Ohms, both appears to look like a 1/4 to 1/2 Watt; Capacitor C28 105`C 220uF 35V Nichicon H9146. Replace all of them or else the problem may return. If the problem returns, it's likely not your solenoids, but the parts on the circuit board.



sample:
Before it was new and now it has fried.


Maintenance Schedule Info: For the first, second and third generation Accords.

Replace the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles or every two years, which ever comes first, using DEXTRON II ATF Premium Formula ATF (2.5quarts). Under harsh conditions the ATF is service twice as often. All are a recommendation of the service manual. Harsh conditions are classified as towing, stop and go traffic, extreme climates, and extreme hill climbing.

The Honda ATF-Z1 is recommended as source for premium fluid with smoother shift and specifically design for certain components inside the transmission. Sold only at dealers or from websites. Search for "ATF-Z1" or "08200-9001"

Current price comparison: DEXTRON II,III ATF is 3.3USD per quart, Honda ATF-Z1 is 5.176USD per quart. A complete fluid overhaul would require about 10 quarts or more. (A simple drain and refill, maybe about 2-1/2 to 4 quarts.)

Author recommends ATF-Z1 to protect from harsh shifting in the future:
I believe it may be possible that the generic aftermarket ATF can
cause the clutch to change in a negative way (often permanently)
when the owner uses the generic aftermarket ATF. The symptom is a
harsh shifting that many people have been complaining about. And
when the owner begins to change back to using the genuine ATF the
harsh shift only improves very little and the harsh shift doesn't
go away. After switching to the ATF-Z1, only time will tell as the
genuine fluid begin to leach into the clutch and replaces itself
with the new ATF-Z1 completely. If the generic ATF is truely a real
problem then Hondas are pretty picky about fluids, just as the
power steering is also picky about its power steering fluid.

Won't shift and no "D4" or "S-light":


The electronic solenoid valve will likely need to be removed and cleaned if there are no diagnostic light and the transmission shows the symptoms above. The solenoids may be restricted with metal particles or debris causing shift malfunctions. The old fluid should then be removed and inspected for dark color and debris then replaced with a Honda ATF (using the recommended fluid or the Honda ATF-Z1.) This section will hopefully point you to a TCU, thermostat, TW sensor or a valve body or a solenoid problem.

If there are no diagnostic light and the car doesn't move on the right gears or does not shift into first, second, third, fourth or reverse gear, inspect the two Shift Control Solenoid Valve (A,B) (location 2) which is located a feet below the two Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve (A,B) (location 1) in the circled areas on the image above, near the bottom of the radiator.




The solenoid assembly can be removed with a ratchet and a 10mm socket and the inlet and outlet of the assembly cleaned with a carburetor cleaner while engaging the solenoid with a battery. The gasket can cleaned with soap and water (DO NOT SOAK in solvent cleaners) and be reused but you should check for leaks after having shifted thru all the gears and have test driven.



Troubleshooting: Connecting the battery to the solenoid test. The solenoid produces a click when battery voltage is applied to the terminal 1 and/or 2 while the solenoids are still attached to the transmission. The same click should occur under fluid pressure. If they don't work under pressure then they need replacing.




Troubleshooting: Wiring. To troubleshoot the solenoid wirings see Troubleshooting: Proper operation and check whether the solenoids are clicking okay. If not, then the proper way to check for a faulty wiring is to check for the solenoid resistance at the TCU harness and ground. How to do this? Read the wire color on the solenoid. Go to and disconnect the TCU wire harness at the TCU. Locate that wire color. Measure for the resistance to ground. The resistance should show (correction 12-24 Ohms.



Troubleshooting: Resistance test. Measure the solenoid's resistance using an Ohmmeter. Their resistance should be between 12 to 24 Ohms. If their resistance are not within the spec then they need replacing.



Troubleshooting: Thermostat. If the thermostat temperature is too low the car will refuse to shift because the temperature sensor (TW sensor) tells the TCU not to shift on a cold motor. To troubleshoot, try a hotter temperature thermostat, check the resistance of the TW sensor or check for low coolant.



Troubleshooting: Proper operation. Warm up the transmission after a drive and put the car into reverse and you should hear or feel a click on one of the Shift Control Solenoid Valve. Put the car in neutral will feel another click. Put it in D and another click is heard or felt, except it will be felt on the other shift solenoid. Use a mechanic's stethoscope.

The activation of the solenoid is triggered after receiving signals from each sensor fed into the TCU. A disconnected TCU will still allow the car to move but will do so in 4th gear.



Troubleshooting: Checking the solenoid and TCU for proper function.

Tip: The proper way to test the solenoid function is to do a pressure drop test on the selected solenoid pressure ports (see "Troubleshooting the solenoid and the modulator fluid pressure" several paragraphs below.)

To troubleshoot, a current measurement can be taken. What this does is attach an ammeter at the solenoid connector and observe the reading for trouble. If there are no ammeter a test light is fine if you just want to know if the TCU is putting out the right power to the solenoids at the right time. The driving test results should point to a malfunctioning TCU, or PGM-FI problem based on how the gear engages and the activity on the ammeter. It can even point you to an external problem such as a bad thermostat or a low coolant level. Look for the following when operating the ammeter:

The gear should shift when the reading in the ammeter or the test lights comes on.
To find out when the readings is expected to come on, see below:


1. How the second gear engages: The second gear engages when solenoid B is on and solenoid A is on. When the solenoid is off fluid is restricted from flowing back into the oil (fluid) pan.

2. How the third gear engages: The third gear engages when solenoid B is off but the solenoid A is on. This engages the 2-3 shift valve, thereby supplying the third clutch with pressure.



A troubleshooting tool called an AMP connector (left.) (Right) the ammeter on the solenoid helps determine whether the TCU is providing the right current at every shift stage which may help locate an intermittent faulty TCU or a faulty solenoid circuit. A test light can be used in their place.

The solenoid must be able to restrict the flow of fluid when it is off. If the solenoid is old or dirty it may not have the ability to stop fluid, therefore may not have the capacity to control the 2-3 shift valve correctly, in this case slipping on 3rd and sometimes fourth. But keep in mind that if there are debris suspended in the fluid the debris may clog the 2-3 shift valve or the modulator valve causing the same symptoms.

Enlarge
Shift solenoid valve Honda Accord 4 Cylinder 1990-1997, Honda Odyssey 1995-1997, Honda Prelude 1992-1997 Notice that the pintle tips are slightly worn, but [not] (edit 3-19-07) enough to be a concern. The job of the pintle is to block or pass the fluid under pressure and/or in motion.
Other possible scenarios: The modulator valve (which hydraulically feeds the solenoids) may be stuck open, flooding the solenoids with more fluid than they can exhaust. The solenoids may also be restricted with metal particles. The symptoms are erratic shifts, no kickdown, wrong gear starts, early shifts, skips second on medium to full throttle, or skips 3rd. To troubleshoot, follow the test below.



Secondary valve body: The secondary valve body is located inside the transmission. The modulator valve maintains line pressure for the shift and lockup solenoid valves.

Troubleshooting the solenoid and the modulator fluid pressure:


Step 1. Attach a 0-100 psi pressure gauge to shift solenoid A and B for the modulator pressure ports. Place shift lever in park and start the engine. Check the pressure on both parts. It should be 70-95 psi. If it is over 95 psi the modulator valve is stuck.




Line pressure testing: Remove the bolt and attach a pressure gauge. The modulator valve maintains line pressure from the regulator, to the pressure to shift control solenoid valves.

If there is no pressure or low pressure at the line pressure port then the ATF strainer is clogged, the pressure regulator is stuck or oil pump worn or binding.

Step 2. With the engine running connect one end of a jumper lead to the positive terminal of the battery and the other end to BOTH solenoid terminals in the connector. The pressure should drop quickly to under 6 psi. If the pressure is above 6 psi or drops slowly, replace the shift solenoids. See Acura, Honda TSB # 226 for details.



Visual Troubleshooting: Checking fluid level.

Check the fluid level with the engine at normal operating temperature and parked on a level ground. Shut off the engine then remove the dipstick (yellow loop) from the transmission and wipe it with a clean cloth and insert the dipstick all the way down but don't screw in. The fluid level should be between the lower and upper marks.



Visual Troubleshooting: Checking fluid condition.

Drain the fluid and inspect the fluid color or for any small suspended particles. Inspect the magnetic pickup on the drain bolt. If there are suspended particles and the magnet has picked up more debris than it can hold then there could be an internal seized valve problem. If there are debris or the fluid color is black then the old fluid should be removed and replaced.




How to remove the 92-93 (or 90-91) Accord automatic transmission.

Tools required.

Ratchet, a 17mm deep hexagon, a normal 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets. Socket extension, 10mm box wrench. Large flat head screw driver. A punch and a hammer. A transmission jack or several jacks, a 120-lb hoist.

Steps:

Remove the hub cap but put the tire and nuts back in.
Punch out the spindle nut lock and loosen the spindle nut.
Raise and support the vehicle and block the tires.
Drain the transmission.
Remove the all the damper fork nuts and all the brake hose nuts on the damper fork and the on the shock absorber.
Remove the damper fork.
Remove the driver side and passenger side front suspension flange nut inside the engine bay and slide the upper arm out.
Read more...





Troubleshooting:






Troubleshooting: On this page are several troubleshooting icons . Run the troubleshooting steps that most likely fit your issues. The diagnostic trouble codes can be retrieved. Retrieving the diagnostic trouble codes by jumping the two terminals connector (blue) and count the number of flashing codes on your instrument gauge.

Make sure that the 'S' or 'D4' shifter status light on the instrument panel lights up for at least two seconds, or blinks after the key is turned on.

Turn the key off.

Jump the two 'Service Check Connector ' A, B pins together and turn the key to ON (II.)

Watch the 'S' or 'D4' light for flashes.

If no problem exists, the light won't flash. If a problem exists, the light will give you either short, or long and short flashes. Short flashes are a 'ones' digit of either a one or a two digit trouble code. Long flashes are the 'tens' digit of a two digit code. Short flashes are about a half second long, and long flashes last about a second and a half. There is about a one second 'OFF' pause between each code.

All codes will be shown in sequence, lowest number first, up to the highest number. The sequence will repeat as long as the key is on and the connector is jumped together." †
Turn the key off. Remove the two AMP male connectors (or jump tool) from the 'Service Check Connector ' pins.







*Different models use different codes: The differences are listed below:

13. Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14. Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15. Kickdown switch circuit shorted.


92 Accord ECU Fuse (7.5A) Reset Location



NC/NM speed sensor, code 9/15

Symptoms of a faulty NM speed sensor: Located at the end (passenger side) of the transmission on some models, check for code 15 or transmission jerks hard when shifting. Symptoms of a faulty NC speed sensor is the lock-up clutch does not engage. The NM or NC speed sensor (code 9) should be within 400-600 Ohms at 20-degrees C. If they are not within spec replace them. If they are within spec check for a possible short to ground but first unplug the harnesses at the TCU.



How to replace the NC speed sensor:

To locate the NC speed sensor on the back of the transmission follow two wires connected to the sensor. The sensor is located on the transmission between the engine firewall and the transmission towards the tire's mud guard on the 90-93 Accord. The NC speed sensor appears to look like a fuel injector (not the best of description.)

Reach inside with a 10 mm socket wrench and unbolt 1 bolt that holds the speed sensor in place.

Carefully twist the speed sensor as you pull it out.

Replace the O-ring.

How to replace the NM speed sensor:

To locate the NM speed sensor on the front of the transmission follow two wires connected to the sensor. The sensor is located on the transmission between the engine radiator and the transmission towards the tire's mud guard on the 90-93 Accord. The NC speed sensor appears to look like a fuel injector (not the best of description.)

Reach inside with a 10 mm socket wrench and unbolt 1 bolt that holds the speed sensor in place.

Carefully twist the speed sensor as you pull it out.

Replace the O-ring.



Author's tip on the NM/NC sensors: Usually, these sensors can pick up a lot of metal particles or metal dusts which can magnetically pile on top of the sensor surroundings. On some vehicle, the control unit simply won't function properly and the car can jerk harshly. On these cases, I simply remove the sensor then wipe and wash out the metal debris and reinstall. I then reset the computer. Everything would work as it should. The buildup of materials simply won't let the sensor read.








Solutions 1 and 2



Solution 1:

The solution is to replace the TCU/TCM (Automatic Transmission Control Unit, aka Automatic Transmission Control Module) or see the tutorial on how to replace the blown resistors and the capacitors with a better value if the symptoms points to a TCU problem. Replacing the TCU with the same model number may blow the same circuit or component inside the TCU unless a corrected TCU is purchased.

The improved TCU is the one you should install in your vehicle. We don't have the part number data on all the improved TCU. Please contact your local dealer and obtain the Honda Technical Service Bulletin to find out which part is meant for your car.

Solution 2:

If there are no diagnostic trouble codes, most likely the shift valve solenoid is stuck, weak or needs cleaning or replacement (as outlined above.)

If there are no diagnostic trouble codes and the line pressure confirms so, then a valve body is stuck.

On some vehicles, replacing the main relay will also solve the "won't shift and blinking D4 light" problem. See bottom of page.



TCU PARTS INFORMATION
Built Location Automatic Transmission Control Unit (Redesigned) Part Number for 90 Accord
Japan-built EX: P/N 28100-PX4-932 H/C 3523933
Japan-built LX & DX: P/N 28100-PX4-922 H/C 3520269
US-built EX: P/N 28100-PX0-932 H/C 3521796
US-built LX & DX: P/N 28100-PX0-922 H/C 3521788




How to replace the TCM/TCU:

Steps (edit 3-30-07):

Locate the passenger foot rest carpet and peel it back. If there is a clip, pry them out.


Remove the large steel cover bolts using a 10-mm deep socket wrench with extension.
Disconnect the harness connector by inserting a flat head screw driver and unlock the clip and slide the harness connector outward.


You can also press the tab on the connector by hand and pull the harness straight out. Do not pull on the wires.
If there are bolts holding the ECU, remove them in order to remove the TCU. The TCU/TCM is the one on the right.
Remove the bolts holding the TCU.
Open the TCU with a phillips screw driver and inspect for sign of burned or leaking parts.






Tip: The second generation Acura Legend TCU is also located in this area. The TCU box is marked "A/T."




Other problem/solution



Problem: My car won't automatically shift into third but the car always work normally when I shut the engine off. What is causing it?

Probable Solution: Fix the electrical problem or the transmission, or replace the fluid.

To find out if the cause is from the electronics shut off all the electronics, including the ECU while coasting in gear for 5 seconds. How is this done? Bring the car up to 50-mph in D3 and release the gas. Turn off the ignition (DO NOT remove the key.) When the rpm decreases and reaches 1300-rpm switch the ignition to ON. If the shift problem persist then the problem is inside the transmission. If the problems goes away for a while (but only after disconnecting the battery) then the TCU is most likely at fault.



Problem: My car shifts harshly... when it shifts it jerks, a bad shift shock. What is causing it and how do I fix it?

Only for the computer controlled transmission. The transmission detects pedal dept via two points. One at the TPS and the other at the transmission. If the deeper you press the gas the less harsh it becomes then the problems lies on the out-of-adjustment at the transmission throttle cable.

Probable solution: Using a wrench, adjust the transmission throttle cable in small increments and test drive. Tip: The more the slack the harsher the shift. If this does not solve the problem then it could be a shift timing or other problems as expressed below.


Extra thoughts from the author about harsh shifting: The harsh
shifting found on these electronic transmission is notorious. Where is
the problem coming from? From speculation, it could be coming from the
clutch (which could have been damage from using generic ATF.) Or the problem
could be coming the TCU. The TCU, which in effect is fed data from sensors
(such as the transmission NM/NC speed sensor) throughout the transmission
and the engine. The sensors tell the TCU when to shift at the correct
moment. If any of these moments are off a bit due to bad sensors readings
then they could produce a jerk as it shifts. Such as we don't normally
shift when we are at the wrong rpm, car speed or gear. Doing so will
produce a harsh embarrassing shift. Back in the days of the mechanical
shifting, none of these problem occur. The current problem is that there
are too many sensors and some of them could be failing to work correctly
and the TCU is blinded by their conditions. The TCU is often only acting on
bad advice. Troubleshooting may require the car hooking up to a
computer for analysis making sure the sensors are working as they
should. Many of you don't have access to these sophisticated system.
So, the best advice is to remove each sensor, clean them and test them
using a multimeter and put them back in and test drive. And repeat the
procedure for other sensors. The software could be rewritten to fix its
behavior but is not solving the problem. The internal parts of the
transmission itself may be misbehaving. Inside the transmission is a
clutch fluid shock absorber which is somewhat controlled by the throttle
pedal. This absorber may not be of any usefulness if the clutch is already
possibly damage from using the wrong AT fluid. Replacing with a new good
transmission may be the best bet in trying to solve it. Your luck will be
needed since people often will put various kinds of random fluid in
there. The harsh shifting problems isn't mission critical that is why
we cannot expand the topic further.


Problem: My car [electronic controlled transmission] won't automatically shift into third and there is a check engine light or sometimes no check engine light. What is causing it?

Solution: Fix the engine problem. Remember, a weak engine due to ignition or PGM-FI problems will not allow the vehicle to shift to third or fourth nor does a faulty TPS, shift solenoid, thermostat or coolant temp sensor.



Problem: My car won't shift into fourth and there is smoke in tailpipe. What is causing it?

Solution: Timing is off on vehicles with twin cams.



Problem: My car won't automatically shift into second (non computerized only.) What is causing it?

Solution: Possible shift valve seized. Rebuild required. (effectively, a rebuild simply requires sanding the shift valve.)



Problem: My car won't go in reverse (can't backup.) What is causing it?

Solutions: On car without an electronic transmission, replace fourth gear selector or the affected gear(s). The reverse gear is activated by fluid pressure. Check for an internal clogged fluid. Cars with electronic transmission don't require the shift solenoid to go in reverse.



Problem: Cannot remove the key even in park. What is causing it?

Solutions: Make sure the P light is on. See key stuck at ignitionswitch.html#stuck for details.



Problem: My car won't start in park. The starter will not engage (no sound, nothing - except a main relay click) but all other electrical such as headlights are working fine.

Solutions: If the car starts only when the P indicator come on or when the car is on neutral then clean or adjust the console switch located on the shift selector (next to your seat.) For the manual transmission, clean, inspect or replace the clutch switch (or the starter relay on some models.) If there are any alarm starter disrupt, bypass them sufficiently to allow maximum current to flow.




Problem: My 90-94 Accord (and some Acura Integra) takes off real slow and won't shift properly, usually happens with a no start. The "S" (D4) light is also blinking, can this caused by the main relay?

Yes. This can happen when the ignition is ON and the ECU/TCU power supply from the main relay drops out momentarily. This could happen in conjunction with a no start condition. The symptoms will usually cause the transmission to shift into the wrong gears (such as 4th.) Instead of 1st, they take off in 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. This can happen for several different reasons, caused by either internal transmission problems, or external control system problems. External control systems can also cause wrong gear starts. Here are two common external causes:

1. No Power: a complete loss of power or ground to the control system.

2. Fail Safe Strategy: a fail safe protection strategy initiated by the computer to protect itself or the transmission from an observed problem.
If you have the conditions above, you are probably looking for an electrical problem. If you don't have the symptoms above, you probably have a valve body or solenoid problem.

Solutions: The solution is to replace or desolder and solder your main relay (using the best possible method) and check your ignition switch and the culprit clattering relay. To fix the main relay see Main Relay Fix to find the Honda accord main relay location see mainrelaydefine.html. If the intermittent problem persist, there could be an intermittent TCU external power supply problem, or other problems. Check all power supply inputs to the TCU. The TCU power supply ports should come on at the same time as the ECU power ports.
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Last edited by KeeleDesign; 08-25-2011 at 05:37 AM.
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:56 AM   #2
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Holy awesome amounts of info! Excellent job sir.

Someone might wanna fix the title and capitalize "faq"....
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:57 AM   #3
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well done. well done! thanks for putting all this together.

how do you feel about replacing the capacitor with different values? i'm speaking of the tcm for the 91 cb with sport shift.
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Old 06-18-2011, 06:05 AM   #4
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To be honest, I've gotten no clue, I'd have to do some research.
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:37 AM   #5
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30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:36 PM   #6
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great write up i learned a great bit I hope i can solve my tranny problem wit the info provided. my trans shifts but slips out after driving for 20 min no d4 light or anything and my trans fluid is not even warm. it is got to be a clog or my pumps gone. I hate to spend money i dont need to.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:41 PM   #7
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Let me know what you figure out so we can add it to the list of problems and fixes.
I would almost think this should be a stickie so it doesn't get lost, but who reads those....
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:46 PM   #8
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sticky this and i am going to print it out too

beyond excellent info
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeeleDesign View Post
Let me know what you figure out so we can add it to the list of problems and fixes.
I would almost think this should be a stickie so it doesn't get lost, but who reads those....
my 90 lx us built coupe has a 28100-px0-921 tcu that recently died, i replaced it with a 922 but the shift points are all off. gonna wait on that as i have an engine problem now
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drew12000 View Post
well done. well done! thanks for putting all this together.

how do you feel about replacing the capacitor with different values? i'm speaking of the tcm for the 91 cb with sport shift.
Not reccomended. They make specific part values for a reason. yes u might get lucky and find a cap value close enough to the replacment that will function within tolerance. but they picked those values for a reason.
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:48 AM   #11
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Not reccomended. They make specific part values for a reason. yes u might get lucky and find a cap value close enough to the replacment that will function within tolerance. but they picked those values for a reason.
i hear you. but in the tcu/tcm DIY john bennett uses a different cap. and post that it makes it at least a month. would like to hear from him, himself. but no luck finding him.

http://people.consolidated.net/etrid...ordtcufix.html
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:43 PM   #12
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Can this be stickied? I had a hard finding this after I had left this thread.
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:16 PM   #13
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I've inquired about just that, If it will help more people out by doing so, that's great. Now we will allow the people in charge to make that decision.
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:25 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by KeeleDesign View Post
I've inquired about just that, If it will help more people out by doing so, that's great. Now we will allow the people in charge to make that decision.
If it wasn't for coming across this thread today and reading the exact symptoms that I have, I may never have pulled the TCU tonight to find it burnt just like the pic in this thread.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:50 PM   #15
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Speedometer not working properly VSS

Hi, I hope this is the right section to ask for help, otherwise please move my questions to the right section.

I have a 92 EX Automatic and for about a month the speedometer was working on and off and was told was the VSS (vehicle speed sensor), at the honda was around $170 so I bought one off ebay for $15 and replace it myself and still had the same problem, the seller sent me another one and still the same problem, the gauge for the speed is dead and sometimes work for a second and sometimes works for a few minutes or when I hit a bump.

I rebuild the transmission a year and a half ago.

I am trying to avoid going to the mechanic if is something simple, short on $ these days.

Do you know what can it be?
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:51 AM   #16
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Did you replace the entire VSS? Or just the top half.
In previous experience, I had to change the complete assembly.


Do the lights on your cluster work?

If yes to both previous questions, I'd be willing to bet your having a grounding out issue somewhere.
Time to start opening loom of looking for cut wires, from experience of 6 months going through my GSX harness I can tell you is a pita.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:28 AM   #17
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I replaced the 2 pieces (sensor and little metal pin).
I guess will have to stop at the mechanic before I get a speeding ticket.
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:51 PM   #18
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what if the D4 light doesnt light up at all, but the others do? 1993 A6 cb7 auto. this one wont shift to 3rd unless you lean on the gas pedal a bit harder.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:45 PM   #19
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Do our auto trannys have over drive?
When im on the highway i feel like im missing another gear but im on D4
Im goin like 70mph and my rpm is around 3500 -4000.
Idk, just doesnt feel right and its my 3rd auto.
Any input would help
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