Any other importers besides Hmotorsonline.com?

[Turbo617]

yeah that's true.

apologies, I was thinking of local peoples concerns, they viewed HMO and Tiger as bad for H series because they essentially beat the crap out of the H series without ever doing any PMs.

When I order my H22a from HMO, I'll still have it opened and I'll double check it. then have all gaskets, belts nd whistles replaced.

[H311RA151N]

yeah that's true.

apologies, I was thinking of local peoples concerns, they viewed HMO and Tiger as bad for H series because they essentially beat the crap out of the H series without ever doing any PMs.

When I order my H22a from HMO, I'll still have it opened and I'll double check it. then have all gaskets, belts nd whistles replaced.

An H22 I would rebuild. Being as it's in a car frequently abused. Same with an F20B. An H23 VTEC I would not as it's in an AWD wagon.

But that's just me.

[deevergote]

Most people only need to replace the basic seals and gaskets (you're right, head gasket not included), and the timing belt... and all is good with an HMO H22A. My own H22A from them never even got that much. The timing belt is still from 1994!

If a compression and leakdown test shows the engine to be healthy, there's no need to take it apart. In fact, unless you have experience assembling engines, and the tools to do so, you're probably better off leaving it alone! Change all rubber seals and gaskets, replace the timing belt. Clean out the EGR ports if necessary. replace any sensors that are damaged (that's something that does occasionally happen in shipping.) and an engine from HMO should be good to go.
I'd still do the compression and leakdown test though, even though they claim it was done before shipping the engine out. That's something that won't do any harm, and will give you peace of mind.

As for being "beat on"... sometimes an engine that has been driven hard within the manufacturer's intended limits will be healthier than one that was babied. I recall reading numerous articles about "radical" ways to break in an engine that doesn't involve conservative driving! As long as the engine was maintained properly, unmodified, and never revved beyond redline, the occasionally heavy right foot probably won't be a problem.
I'd be more concerned about the fact that the engine had likely been sitting on a shelf for years, untouched. 35,000 miles is all well and good... but 10+ years rotting on a shelf could be more harmful than continued operation! The H22A is probably less likely to develop internal issues than an iron-sleeved F series, however. FRM doesn't rust. Iron does. Even a thin coating of rust on a cylinder wall could compromise the piston ring seal.

[H311RA151N]

^^^ That's all good to know. I have never done an H swap but you being around here for so long and having an H yourself it's safe to say that you have seen your fair share of gasket and sealed H22 swaps come and go. That is good info. And reassuring in my scenario as well.

[deevergote]

In my experience around here, it seems that H22A head gaskets are rarely a problem. As long as the engine was never overheated, the head gasket is usually solid it seems.

I do wish that I had performed my own swap. I've redone practically everything over the years, but I never did a swap from start to finish. I feel there are likely some nuances that I've missed because of it.

[H311RA151N]

Over the years I had dealt with so much in the engine bay and was so familiar with everything that when I went to pull my first F22A I was shocked and didn't believe what I had just done. It seemed as if I had the engine out almost effortlessly. Now it's a breeze. The one I pulled two days ago and I'm in the process of putting a replacement in I didn't really have my mind on what I was doing. It was just auto pilot. And it went perfectly.

The hardest part of removal for me is the super step angle that the engine requires to be removed. The belt side of the engine needs to be pointing at damn near 2:00 (standing in front of the car) to clear the passenger side mount bracket with the shift selector assembly and the crank pulley on the unibody.

Putting them back in is just reverse as to taking them out. The F22A is just like the H22 other than a couple wires and whatever the passenger side mount method being used is. (So I've been told/read).

With that being said, I don't think you would have any problems preforming a swap.

[Accrdwgnguy]

I was pull the crank pulley off the engine, gives you that extra needed clearance. I'm about to do yet another engine trans swap. F23A1/5 speed into a automatic 95 Accord coupe, should be interesting as I've done plenty of swap but never a 5 speed conversion.

[H311RA151N]

You probably seen my 5 speed conversion DIY. If not you know it's there now. It should be similar. Maybe.

Pulling the crank pulley off would make for better clearance. I don't do it because you never know how much of a bitch they are going to be. That and the time to remove it.

I've seen some people screw up the power steering pulley on the crank because they smashed it against the body. So removing it for some might be the best bet.

[deevergote]

With that being said, I don't think you would have any problems preforming a swap.

I encounter problems just changing my freakin' spark plugs! I'm like a walking disaster when it comes to automotive stuff. I understand it all... but I manage to snap, strip, break, bend, or crack damn near everything I touch!

[H311RA151N]

I encounter problems just changing my freakin' spark plugs! I'm like a walking disaster when it comes to automotive stuff. I understand it all... but I manage to snap, strip, break, bend, or crack damn near everything I touch!

Maybe the condition of all the bolts and stuff up there in NJ has something to do with it. I see more "corroded aluminum?" (white powdery buildup) and rusted bolts on the cars up there through this site than I have anywhere else.

I'm the opposite. I understand most things alright. Not the best but I feel I'm adequate most of the time. But I can do anything hands on. I guess I don't have the engineer mind set. I'm just a nut and bolt turner.

I think the easier a person being instructed to preform a task comes to understand the better the person explaining it understands what they are talking about. That's the way I look at it. If you truly understand what your talking about then it should be easy for people to firmly grasp what you are teaching them I guess it another way to put it. And here I am not feeling as if I got my point across correctly.

[h22sparkle]

You see with sparkplugs deeve the trick I use is this put a dab of motor oil on the threads but when you tighten the plugs in do a notch for like half a turn on the ratchet-wrench works everytime.

[af_1132]

Glad to know about Osaka before I did something stupid. They have a bunch of R32 GTR's and I would give up ALOT (not the CB, though) to have my dream car. I would have probably pursued that black '93 they have on there if I didn't know any better. I'm sure glad I do.

I started laughing when I saw this, though: http://osakajdmmotors.ca/jdm-cars/in...products_id=58

[HenRoc]

Holy thread revival.

I remember this day...and this was my first EVER swap and having to learn the pin outs because rywire hadn't come up with the jumper harness (I think it was three years before it came out)

Henry actually ended up buying his H22A from a place in Albany NY, mostly because it saved him on shipping since it's just a few hours drive from here. I think it was called JapanStar Motors? Anyways that H22A lasted him quite some time.

Yep. 6 hour round trip to Albany and back. Would definitely do business with them again..although it's extra for the paper work, later found out that guy is related to the owner of Osaka or Tiger Japanese (brothers IIRC)

And besides I've known Steve personally when I did business with him and this was back in 95. When I got my swap from him I admit I did get a reprogrammed 5speed which I was pissed about because it wouldn't hold a steady idle it was always surging searching for a steady idle.

I then called him up and gave him back his ecu and he replaced it and we went back on our ways. And from that point on I spend more money buying more motors from him and sent people to him because he keeps up his end making sure his customers are satisfied because its the money that makes the business and if you orchestrate good business you get more customers and that's what he's doing.

95?? Dude you would be at least 13 years old at the time...

I believe they were out of OBD1 H22As, but still had OBD2. It's more of a hassle to install the newer ones, but you have enough experience that it won't be too much of a headache. Just a few added steps, and maybe a few extra bucks here and there for parts you don't have on hand.

Yeah they are on short order. There is JDM Engine depot in New Jersey but I'm doing my extensive research again.

For my sake.

hmotors is still a litte expensive.

[h22sparkle]

I remember this day...and this was my first EVER swap and having to learn the pin outs because rywire hadn't come up with the jumper harness (I think it was three years before it came out)



Yep. 6 hour round trip to Albany and back. Would definitely do business with them again..although it's extra for the paper work, later found out that guy is related to the owner of Osaka or Tiger Japanese (brothers IIRC)



95?? Dude you would be at least 13 years old at the time...



Yeah they are on short order. There is JDM Engine depot in New Jersey but I'm doing my extensive research again.

For my sake.

hmotors is still a litte expensive.

My fault like way back or some shit most of the papers I had are from way back lol

[Accrdwgnguy]

You probably seen my 5 speed conversion DIY. If not you know it's there now. It should be similar. Maybe.

Pulling the crank pulley off would make for better clearance. I don't do it because you never know how much of a bitch they are going to be. That and the time to remove it.

I've seen some people screw up the power steering pulley on the crank because they smashed it against the body. So removing it for some might be the best bet.

Just thought I'd throw this out there. Pulled both engine and trans last week, left the crank pulley on both. The engine with auto trans actually got stuck in the chassis, I had to mess with it a bit to get it out. On the other hand, there was plenty of clearance with the 5 speed trans.