q's about soundproofing

[sonikaccord]

The edead stuff is extremely cheap, but I've heard so many good things about ss damplifier that I'm going to use it. I'm still trying to figure out the most efficient way of killing road noise and prepping the doors for the midbass.

[Jon]

The edead stuff is extremely cheap, but I've heard so many good things about ss damplifier that I'm going to use it. I'm still trying to figure out the most efficient way of killing road noise and prepping the doors for the midbass.

I personally have never been impressed with anything eDead has produced, even their super heavy shit eDead 120... that and the fact that they insist on using Mylar as their facing and way too thin aluminum for most of their products.

The amount of energy converted from vibrations to heat (this is how vibration mats work) at a set viscosity is determined by the relationship between the thickness of the rubber/butyl mixture and the strength of the foil. Mylar is just too weak to work and aluminum that is too thin also doesn't help.

Yes their products will work at lessening vibrations simply by lowering the resonant frequency of the panel (this is what you call mass loading) due to the added weight, just that you can effectively use a thinner product, that weighs less, with the properly proportioned butyl/aluminum layers and achieve the same, if not better results.

[NinJa_FLiP]

^^ so in other words.. stick to butyl (i.e. dynamat, etc).. got it.. lol

[Jon]

^^ so in other words.. stick to butyl (i.e. dynamat, etc).. got it.. lol

Basically yeah.

Another good rule of thumb is stick to products with a thick aluminum layer and a butyl core that do NOT come on rolls as those are typically rebadged/slightly modified roofing products. Not that all products that come on rolls are, just that most are.

Products that I would recommend are Damplifier/Damplifier Pro/Damplifier Lite, Dynamat Extreme and RAAMat. All butyl core products with the appropriate thickness/amount of aluminum.

Of course then you have the liquid/spray products, but that's another beast.

[trubluryder]

^^^^ You're right about them being a lil thinner then other materials, But they definitely work . I sound proofed my doors/trunk ( about 2 layers) and it made my sound system much better( Less vibration and the sound was more suppressed into the car. Making it more loud, clear, and harder hitting bass. Also road noises etc was cut down.). IF you use it for your trunk, you will notice your bass will hit harder. I'm not just basing my opinion from my experience with my car but also my other friend's cars.

[Stoner51]

So. Two years ago I used fatmat on my 4 doors. I noticed a big difference. Now I would like to quiet some more. On the floor and maybe more on the doors. Which of those products would I use. For the Floor and for the doors.
The fatmat did stink for about a month, I assume that I will have to apply the new over the fatmat.
thanks
steve
I was thinking luxury liner for the floor. Not sure about doors

[Jon]

It's best you apply some form of vibration damper to the floor before you tackle it with a barrier product like Luxury Liner. Take a look at Damplifier Lite, great stuff, fairly cheap, and it doesn't smell.

For the doors you could hit them with some CCF (closed cell foam) or even some Luxury Liner Pro.

FatMat is a bitumen/asphalt mixture, that's why it smells and is cheaper then most.
Did you get purple/blue hands from installing the stuff? I know the FatMat logo printed on the aluminum likes to come off during installation.

[93_accord_lx]

Dynamat is by far the best material for sound proofing as well as eliminating that annoying trunk and license plate rattle. It will add a good amount of weight to your ride if everything is done but the results will be worth every pound and penny! Your bass will hit harder and sound crisp as well, your mids and highs will sound fuller too. Only downfall is, its not cheap

[Stoner51]

yes the logo came off. Overall I am happy with it. I think it will be much better after doing the floor.. I will look into the damper product.
steve

[Bad_dude]

Peel and seal is a cheap HVAC ducting insulation used in construction. A lot of people online use it for sound deadening because it is really similar to Dynamat, B-quiet, Fatmat, etc. in composition (ie, asphalt-rubber mats, although Dynamat and B-Quiet have moved to butyl, which doesn't smell). Some people say it works really well, some say it doesn't do shit and just stinks.

I went the regular Dynamat route and got the Dynamat Extreme bulk pack off of Amazon. It was only $140 and had enough to do both doors (in my prelude) and part of my trunk. It helped some with noise, but the thing about all of the sound deadeners is that they are most useful in controlling the flex and resonance of body panels (they make thing not move so much) and some thermal insulation. My next step is going to be putting 1/4" Dynapad over the top of the Dynamat. Dynapad is a sound absorber also made my Dynamat.

I think that the combination of deadener and absorber will give me the best benefit in the end.

It really comes down to how much you want to spend. Sound stuff is so subjective that you and I could really disagree on how well one thing works over another.

Cost could be an issue if you are on a tight budget.
The thickness of the material might make putting it in the doors difficult.

[baracuda]

any one have a genral idea of how many square ft. would be needed to do the entire floor from bottom of fire wall to were the trunk ends? and coupe doors? if not im sure i can look up measurments on the car and get it from there.

[Jon]

any one have a genral idea of how many square ft. would be needed to do the entire floor from bottom of fire wall to were the trunk ends? and coupe doors? if not im sure i can look up measurments on the car and get it from there.

The average is:

Floor: About 40 sq. ft.
Trunk: 30-40 sq. ft.
Doors (inside and out): 12-16 sq. ft. a door.

That is if you cover everything 100% (which isn't necessary). You could probably get away with using 80 sq. ft. of vibration mat if you didn't cover every last square inch.

FYI: Added weight of 80 sq. ft. would be about 30-40 lbs, depending on what brand you go with.

[khal.lawson]

ok , since i can't find an oem muffler , i was pull up the interior and apply some sound deadening material to the floor . would just that help with noise deduction ?

[Jon]

It would and some people are happy with the results. Your best bet would be to treat the trunk area above the muffler with a vibration mat and see how well that works. Then if thats not enough you can easily lay down a noise/MLV barrier like Luxury Liner over that and call it a day.

Another solution would be to look at the liquid products and apply them to the underside of your car, like an undercoating. I've done this to my Accord and it helped with the muffler noise.

Here is a video I made that shows the difference between my untreated heatshield above the muffler and after I applied a liquid vibration damper to it (Second Skin's Spectrum Sludge to be exact).