Wire tuck/Battery relocation help!

[SekCB7]

Ok so i have 93 accord ex coupe that is completely stock and most of my engine bay is clean smooth and just all around nice looking but all of the wiring, brackets, and connections are a huge eyesore so im about to start tucking and cleaning everything up.

my questions are if i move my battery to my trunk will the increased distance effect anything? is there anything i need to do to boost it or is the distance so short that it wont matter?

also ive got an f22a6 engine and there are a couple ground wires near my power staring pump, one smaller wire from the valve cover to the power steering bracket and from the bracket to the body.. do these grounds have to be located here?

lastly, if my battery is moved to the trunk is it necessary to vent the box i have to put it in? i understand some tracks require it? that doesnt matter to me my question is do batteries still leak gasses? or is that mostly a thing of the past?

[802cb7]

The distance doesn't matter.

The ground wires I wouldn't think have to be in their factory location you speak of, but a good grounding system is always a good idea. Some people even add more ground wires. If you remove the factory ones, I would at least run a wire from the valve cover to the body somewhere.

I dont know about the Battery gas venting thing, and quite honestly am not 100% sure of anything I just told you. But I think you would be fine, Older audis, bmw, etc have the batteries under the rear seats, or in the trunk.

[sonikaccord]

Ok so i have 93 accord ex coupe that is completely stock and most of my engine bay is clean smooth and just all around nice looking but all of the wiring, brackets, and connections are a huge eyesore so im about to start tucking and cleaning everything up.

my questions are if i move my battery to my trunk will the increased distance effect anything? is there anything i need to do to boost it or is the distance so short that it wont matter?

also ive got an f22a6 engine and there are a couple ground wires near my power staring pump, one smaller wire from the valve cover to the power steering bracket and from the bracket to the body.. do these grounds have to be located here?

lastly, if my battery is moved to the trunk is it necessary to vent the box i have to put it in? i understand some tracks require it? that doesnt matter to me my question is do batteries still leak gasses? or is that mostly a thing of the past?

Yes, increased distance means increased resistance. I recommend using 4awg wire or better.

You can ground to the trunk chassis. Use the remaining wire to upgrade your engine grounds(block, valve cover, etc.)

You still need to vent the battery if you have flooded lead acid. Agm batteries do not needed venting, but it's still recommend.

[SekCB7]

Awesome thanks that answers everything

[Domesticated]

Yes, increased distance means increased resistance. I recommend using 4awg wire or better.

You can ground to the trunk chassis. Use the remaining wire to upgrade your engine grounds(block, valve cover, etc.)

You still need to vent the battery if you have flooded lead acid. Agm batteries do not needed venting, but it's still recommend.

But it's negligible. 10ft of 4G copper wire is 0.002 Ohm.

[Raf99]

I'll add that distance matters for the in-line fuses or circuit breakers you'll need to install which also depends on the AWG wire you use. And using 4AWG wire is not recommended for a starter which can pull high AMPs in different conditions with the distance involved.

& let's keep the "Big 3" upgrade in mind here too.

[ShotgunFacelift]

The PO of my LX did the battery relocation with amp power cable so I'm in the process of fixing his mistakes. When I did this to my Mk2 GTI it was commonplace to use 0 awg welding cable, as the copper coil of the wire is more efficient than standard battery cable and it's said to be better insulated. I'll either be doing that to fix my slow battery drain or I'll be bringing the battery back up front.

The rest of this info in here is spot-on. Acid flooded batteries do need a vent, sealed batteries like the Optima "six-pack" line (red-top, blue-top...) do not, though it is still recommended.

[Raf99]

I used orange 2AWG welding cable for my run from the battery to the bay. Enclosed the whole cable in a plastic wrap as well. Great stuff!

[Domesticated]

I'll add that distance matters for the in-line fuses or circuit breakers you'll need to install which also depends on the AWG wire you use. And using 4AWG wire is not recommended for a starter which can pull high AMPs in different conditions with the distance involved.

& let's keep the "Big 3" upgrade in mind here too.

Why is 4 gauge wire not recommended? That's massive. I designed an electrical system at a firm I interned at running 50 feet each way running off a vehicle electrical system at 80 amps continuous for 30 minutes. No issues. Our starters probably run 100 amp for 3-5 seconds? This is actually a solid chart for wire size:
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-vo...gauge-amps.htm

[evalex]

Why is 4 gauge wire not recommended? That's massive. I designed an electrical system at a firm I interned at running 50 feet each way running off a vehicle electrical system at 80 amps continuous for 30 minutes. No issues. Our starters probably run 100 amp for 3-5 seconds? This is actually a solid chart for wire size:
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-vo...gauge-amps.htm

Your starter will probably drain around 200-300 amps in that short time, considering the distance is around 4 meters.

[Domesticated]

Even if they peak out at 200 amp the chart shows a 4 gauge wire at 15 ft for a constant draw of 200.

[Raf99]

Those who have done the Big 3 upgrade will recognize the purpose of 2AWG main power cable.

[Domesticated]

But why waste the money if you don't need to? I can understand of you're running big loads, but to my understanding the OP isn't.

[Raf99]

But why waste the money if you don't need to? I can understand of you're running big loads, but to my understanding the OP isn't.

This is true. OEM uses 4AWG by default and will support his needs. If he ever upgrades down the road he would want this wire to NOT be the weakest link.

[sonikaccord]

I had 1/0 in my car at one point. Car audio forums are great for find a lot of copper for dirt cheap. Just an idea.

Domesticated is right. 4 awg at 25 feet pulling a few hundred amps for a couple of seconds won't burn your car down. It's a *very* small resistance. I don't know too many people that try to increase the efficiency of their starting system, but I know they are out there.

Also, fuse for the wire capacity not how much load you're expecting.