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getting stumped

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    getting stumped

    heya all
    i had brought the cb to honda to be checked out for it bogging out and the cel light didnt work. well i got the cel working now and i checked the codes which were 7.12,14 and 43.
    well i replaced the tps and throttle body,all the egr stuff ,the iac valve as well as the fast idle thermo valve and the map sensor. has new plugs and wires ,cap and rotor.oh and have tried 6 diff main relays(3 new)
    all the codes are gone now except the 43 and once it hits norm running temp it still boggs/bucks/sputters out around 2400 rpm to 3500rpm.
    i know code 43 -Fuel Supply System.
    what else could be going on .running out of idea's.besides a new fuel pump but mine works.
    90 accord sedan 5sp w/93 ex f22a1.

    any idea's to what to look at next? thanks guys
    dont want to bring it back to honda unless i have to. $119.\hr shop rate is a killer:P lol

    travis
    Last edited by matrix27; 09-01-2008, 05:00 AM.

    #2
    Probably not the same thing but when my old accord used to do that. It was my wires for my plugs. It had bad connections. Car would spudder upon acceleration.

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      #3
      Originally posted by matrix27 View Post
      ...has new plugs and wires ,cap and rotor.oh and have tried 6 diff main relays(3 new)...travis

      Probably not the problem here.

      Have you tried the fuel filter? Cleaned the injectors? Checked to see if one of the hamsters is dead? I had one go in mine and it's dead body was stuck in the little wheel he runs in and threw the whole engine out of balance, so I replaced them all with guinea pigs. Hella performance boost, and that squeaking noise they make lets you know I mean business at the light.
      Last edited by visualpoet; 09-01-2008, 06:53 AM.

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        #4
        try replacing the fuel filter. if not that then maybe you're cat. converter is clogged.

        member's ride thread
        93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
        99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
        91 Accord SE 176k
        97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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          #5
          Code 43 is often the oxygen sensor, believe it or not. Makes little sense. It's expensive, but replace it with an OEM Honda unit. The cheaper Bosch sensors you can get at autoparts stores don't work properly. Better to spend $140 for something that works than $60 for something that doesn't! Also, has the car been sitting for a while? I got 43 for a bit, and then it just never came back after a little use... I guess the sensor started working properly again after some regular use.

          All the things suggested above are good to replace regardless, though.



          Also, you replaced the whole throttle body for the TPS I hate seeing when people do that... you can replace JUST the TPS and save yourself a buttload of money!






          Comment


            #6
            i replaced the whole TB because the TPS went bad. i had a hell of a time figuring it out but when i put a good used TB on most of my performance problems went away.
            http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...82408002-1.jpg

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              #7
              The TB rarely goes bad for any reason. It's just the sensor, which is a good deal cheaper than the entire TB. In fact, if you have access to a u-pull junkyard, getting away with a few free TPS sensors is cake






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                #8
                new fuel filter. no cat or res. been driving the car for over a yr and ran fine but the last month it's been like this. tps was shot and the was something wrong with the old tb. honda said it wasnt supposed to make noise it was. sounded kinda like being in a wind tunnel a low annoying howl lol.
                so could be the o2 sen. how bout the speed sensor or a slowly going ecu?
                can the o2 be cleaned like mostly everything else? even if just to see if that the prob. with school startin up the kids have drained the car fund.
                thanks for what you said tho guys . this site has been great for teaching me about the cb's. spend more time reading here than with the g/f . good thing she dosnt mind as the car gets her to work also .
                Last edited by matrix27; 09-01-2008, 02:44 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I'm not sure if the o2 sensor can be cleaned to fix the problem. It may be possible, but i'd suggest getting a new one anyway.

                  The ECU shouldn't go slowly. If it goes, it's gone... and you'll know.

                  The speed sensor shouldn't be an issue. All sensors can benefit from being replaced with new OEM parts, but I don't think the speed sensor has anything to do with your current issue.






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                    #10
                    went to take my son home and car ran like a charm and no cel. today was fairly overcast and cool ,am starting to wonder if it was running to hot on sunny days and it was afecting the car. i know on v8's(i have a 78 bronco) that if they run/it's hot out that sometimes the same thing will happen as the gas is getting super heated and not burning properly. any one think this could be some of the cause? gonna have to get some cooler plugs to see maybe.
                    let me know what ya all think. again the help here is great and makes me feel good to be in the cb world.
                    travis

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I don't know about the car not running correctly in the heat... However, high heat can cause things to fail more quickly... Most of my issues with my coil, igniter, and main relay have been on the hottest days of summer (oh how I love that!)






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                        #12
                        try replacing a gas tank in a 66 galaxie because the neck cracked durring a heat wave. oh, and only with a bottle jack your bronco had a carb? I know my fairlane bogs a little in 80+, but inj. comp. cars shouldnt be affected by heat, other than not getting enuf air for mixture, but then again, the comp should compensate for the richness. btw- fuelpump may still work, but at high speeds, under load, might not be enuf pressur. imo
                        you'll love my nuts!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by angus67 View Post
                          try replacing a gas tank in a 66 galaxie because the neck cracked durring a heat wave. oh, and only with a bottle jack your bronco had a carb? I know my fairlane bogs a little in 80+, but inj. comp. cars shouldnt be affected by heat, other than not getting enuf air for mixture, but then again, the comp should compensate for the richness. btw- fuelpump may still work, but at high speeds, under load, might not be enuf pressur. imo
                          x2 on the pump
                          Summer 11' Big plans (Bodywork/paint/rims etc..) in Progress STAY TUNED

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                            #14
                            Never tried it (hear about it and it makes sense); disconnect the O2 sensor and see what ya get. ECU will go to default/learned fuel trim. If bogging goes away, then you know O2 was reading incorrectly. Replace O2.
                            Would like to hear more about it as a definetive test though, no direct experience to verify
                            Opal Metallic Green '92 LX 2dr manual, 181k miles, '94 prelude VTEC wheels for summer (steelies with snow tires for winter), Omni-power struts/springs, and other junk

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The ECU won't go lean, it'll go pig rich... lean is dangerous, rich is safe (-er... rich can do damage over time, too).

                              Disconnecting the o2 sensor won't necessarily make it clear what the problem is. It'll rule out the possibility of bad ECU, but honestly, we've done that already. The chances are VERY slim that it's a partially-working unit. When it comes to ECUs, it's usually all or nothing.






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