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foglight switch help

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    foglight switch help

    okay, okay come on guys and gals. someone in this family has to have some automotive electrical knowledge... i mean there are people on hear that can do a complete engine rebuild and or replacement. and there are people that can tune or chip ecu's. so i know someone or a couple of people can help me. i installed my oem foglights and switch using the wiring diagram that timmytool uploaded. everything was fine until last sunday nite. my dash and parklites went out. the fuse was blown. changed it blew again. turned off the fogs and put in a 20amp fuse, had lites, but when i turned on the fogs again the dash lites dimmed and then i had no fogs. checked wires coming from the fuse box. has power. checked the fogs straight from the battery and bypass the switch they come on. have power to all the wires xcept the one wire to the switch. so as u can see i have a canondrum any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated. yes i know i can use a aftermarket rocker switch, but i want to try and stay original.. thanks in advance

    #2
    Did you check the grounds of the actual fogs?? Maybe you fried the switch.
    1993 Accord EX
    2011 Subaru STi

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      #3
      fried switch

      how would u be able to tell if the switch was fried?

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        #4
        It would look melted. Something simple but double check the wire that has no power to see if its making contact properly in the switch, maybe pin thingy came lose.
        1993 Accord EX
        2011 Subaru STi

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          #5
          melty switch

          naw man the switch looks like it is new. no melted plastic anywhere. i jumped the hot wire from the fuse box to the relay through the switch and the lites came on. but im still not getting any power to the output wire from the switch to the relay.

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            #6
            wiring diagram

            oh yea i used the same wiring diagram that cpmike and tommyotool made that i see u told. true blue to use. so it is xactly wired like that diagram. maybe this will help u help me.

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              #7
              If you have a ohm meter, check for continuity between the "power to the switch" pin and the "power to the lights" pin. Should be there when it's "on" should not when it's "off". If you don't have continuity, you have a bad switch. If you do, the problem lies elsewhere.

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                #8
                rechecked power

                hey im back, i used my ohm meter and i have power where it needs to be. i connected a jumper from the positive side of the battery to my test light. at which time i checked for continuty to all the wires in the switch, which lit up like they should. i applied power to the relay switch pin on the switch harness, it clicked and the lights came on. so im assuming it must be the switch. if u agree please let me know. thanks in advance.

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