looking for info regarding h23 manifold swap

[Boostdprobe91]

My first question is, is there any how-to's with pictures? Also do I need to have the black box or what do I need to do there again any pictures? Also what does that black box look like and where does it go?
Third question is I have a all motor 1990 Honda Accord Lx automatic with only a few minor modifications done to it such as prelude ecu, short ram intake, 4-2-1 header, gutted cat, 2.5" exhaust all the way back to a muffler. Anyone have any idea's on how much hp I would have right about now, just like a estimate or anything like that would be great full.

Thanks for your time...

[deevergote]

The "black box" is under the manifold.

Just remove your old one, and install the new one. You don't really need pictures. There's nothing terribly difficult about it.


As for horsepower... your Prelude ECU will be pretty much worthless with the H23 manifold. The header is probably adding maybe 3hp (the Bisimoto header is the only F22A header worthwhile), the gutted cat is probably causing you to lose 3-5hp, and the 2.5" exhaust is killing your low end (it will be good if you go turbo, H22 swap, or plan on doing some headwork and getting a nice cam for your F22A)

If you're making 120whp, I'd be surprised. Replace that cat with a proper OEM cat, add a PT6 ECU, and the H23 manifold will possibly help you get near 125-130whp.

[Boostdprobe91]

so what if i run a straight pipe instead of a cat because not really wanting to pay the $250 to get a new cat. Because arn't cat's expensive?

Is the pt6 ecu the factory ecu?

[wed3k]

factory for f22a6 engines.

you can run a straight pipe if you want.

[deevergote]

A straight pipe would be better than a gutted cat... but it will smell and sound terrible, and it will destroy the planet. There's no need to run without a cat on a car that is driven on the street, and it's people that do that have made things so difficult for legitimate tuners as far as emissions laws go.

[Boostdprobe91]

Calm down now, Just trying to figure out a way to save some money... Don't have a huge budget right now to even modify my car, just trying to make it as fast as possible on the little money that I do have. I have exhaust piping laying around thats why I asked if i could use a straight pipe cause I know I can make something work for that. But it kinda sounds like you want to buy me a cat. lol jkjk but I'll definatly look around for a cat.

[cloudasc]

The h23 intake is a very simple swap, the black box as mentioned is located under the intake manifold. Here is a picture of a black box on an f22a6 intake manifold:


As for the catalytic converter, i agree with deev 100%! When looking for a replacement, find a Metallic Core Catalytic Converter, as they are alot more durable and last much longer then the Ceramic Core Catalytic Converters. The only time catalytic converters are expensive is if you buy an oem one, which will run you over 2k, expect to pay around $200 for a Metallic Core Catalytic Converter.

[deevergote]

http://sms-products.com/Converters.html

That's the same company that makes the famous SMSP H22 header (until Bisimoto comes out with one, SMSP is the best.) Those have a metal core, and the cheaper ones are just $100. They are about as free-flowing as you're going to find, as well.


If you can't afford to modify your car correctly, you can't afford to modify your car. I completely understand what it's like to work on a budget. We all do... that's why we tune cheap old Accords instead of BMWs!
Do it right. "as fast as possible" while cutting every corner you can will result in an unsafe and unreliable car.

[Boostdprobe91]

Thanks I'll definatly look into that. . . Thanks for the picture I definatly see what everyone is talking about now. So everything is all connected to the h23 manifold correct? Like I should be able to just pull it all apart as one big unit?

[deevergote]

Yeah, it'll all go on at once. If you have an F22A1 or F22A4 in your car now, then you're going to need to wire up the IAB system (the black box will have a plug on it). Search for the info on how to do it... it's here. Another option is to bypass the electrical connection and use a vacuum line to activate the IAB. I'm not a fan of that method, however (though you can do that while retaining your P12)