I have a 91 Accord EX with SRI and cat back exaust. I just bought a stock p06 ECU today. The problem I am having is that while I am driving it will sorta bog down. It is also causing my car to almost die at idle. I just adjusted the idle and I think I got it but the bogging down concerns me. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
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p06 ecu
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Oops, I don't know how I missed that. Yeah, just switch back to your old ECU. Then get the PO6 chipped and tuned.. though, it really isn't worth it unless if you have some serious mods on your engine.Originally posted by deevergote View PostHe said he has a stock P06. Stock means unmodified.Accord 93 LX: H23 intake mani, Ebay short ram, P12 ecu, Full exhaust. Lots of noise... and that's about it, just noise. LOL
Mazdapeed MX-5 04: Begi Intake, Forge BOV, Ebay FMIC. Whoooooooosh... Phhhff!
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What motor are you using? Stock F22ax motor right?
Go back and use the stock ecu (pt3)
Or go and get yourself a P12. (it adds 10hp {roughly})
You are killing your engine with that ecu, even if you get it chipped, it's not recommended for you f22ax motor, later.
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"I ran open header once, it was sooooo loud little kids were running for cover as I was cruising at 2000rpms. That was enough to know I shouldn't floor it."
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Why do you want to get rid of your rev limit? Your stock engine doesn't make any power over 5600 RPM. Don't waste your money on a chipped ECU if all you have is a CAI & header. Stock EVU will still run just fine with bolt-ons. Your not going to require any more than 7200 RPM.
The rev & speed limiters are there for a reason. If you don't upgrade your chassis or engine there is no need to have them removed.Last edited by GhostAccord; 11-14-2009, 09:30 PM.
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You're running the stock tune for an engine that isn't yours. If you get it chipped and get a tune, it will run decent but the basic bolt ons you have don't require a tune and you'll basiclly end up with the same results as if you hadn't have changed your ECU in the first place.Originally posted by mfatal View PostSo basically I will need to send this ECU out to be chipped and tuned for my vehicle. I have SRI Cat back exhaust. I just ordered headers they should be here thursday.
Don't bother chipping the P06. Sell it, buy a P12 and use that. It is from a Prelude running the F22a1. What kind of header are you ordering as well? Unless your a4 header is in crappy shape, there's no point in ordering anything except the bisi header.
Member's Ride Thread
Originally posted by mercyboyI'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car then win by an inch because someone else built it for me..your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book!
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Spec & Features:
* T-304 Stainless Steel with Polish Finish
* Gain More performance Due to More Air Flow
* 3 Stage Polish Shine Like a Mirror
* Increase 10-16 Horse Power and Torque
* Direct Bolt-On Installation
Detail- Inlet/ Outlet :
* 4-2-1 2pcs Header
* 1.75" / 2.0"
These are the specs of the headers I ordered.
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Before any one else jumps in. It known as a header, no s. We 4 bangers only have one header as aposed to a V6 or V8 that have a set aka headers.
What are the specs on the light weight cam?
If you are getting an aftermarket cam then chipping the P06 and having your car tuned would be the appropriate thing to do. Depending on the specs of the cam of course.
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I am not sure yet as to the specs on the cam. I just know it would be better to have a light weight came. Preferably made out of chrome alloy. Would also like some titanium valve springs for it too. I am just building this car piece by piece. Hopefully I can find the cam and valve springs and do it when I have time to do a complete rebuild of the engine. Those are my plans at least. I was probably jumping the gun by buying that ECU but I got it for 40 bucks and can get it chipped for 60. So it will be cheaper in the long run than trying to find a p12 cheap around where I live anyway.
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