need advise on camber kit

[fly68]

I am half way through installing new struts and springs on my 92 ex coup. I have the fronts in and there is obvious negative camber in the front wheels even though it doesn't seem like it dropped the 1.75 inches the H&R springs claimed to. I don't know a lot about camber kits, it seems like there are different styles that work on CB7's. I just want the best for the money. Any knowledgeable advise would be greatly appreciated.

[ExplodingCake]

If you're dropped not more than 2 inches , you'll be fine without them.
All you need is regular alignment routine.

[19dabeast85]

You'll be running about -1.75 camber without a camber kit. If you want to adjust it get the SPC thin-profile adjustable ball joint. Everyone that has them is very satisified. Summitracing carries them for about the best price I've seen. Here's a good thread on how to install the kit: THREAD

Also: H&R springs are notorious for settling ALOT after a few weeks of driving. You may want to wait at least 2 weeks for them to settle before paying for an alignment.

[deevergote]

I'm uneasy with removing the stock ball joint, as it has to be pressed out, which can weaken the already thin metal that holds it in place. Nobody has had a problem yet, but I don't like it.

TASauto.com has a full upper control arm with an adjustable Ingalls ball joint. I have that on my car, and I would never run anything else.


As said above, under 2" can usually be fine with just an alignment. You'll still have camber wear, but it won't be excessive. Keep up with rotating your tires properly, and you shouldn't have any real issues.


As for your car not looking like it's as low as it should be... give it time. It will settle.

[HardInThePaint]

Here's a good thread on how to install the kit

I think very few people on this site have a press. Ur best bet is to get the balljoint and get it professionally installed.

[deevergote]

Have you ever seen the thin band of metal that holds the ball joint in? Have you ever noticed that you can't buy the upper ball joint separate from the upper control arm from Honda?

I wouldn't risk pressing it out. Especially since that's the part that smacks the fenderwell when camber is corrected, unless you do something to prevent it.

[19dabeast85]

HOLD ON!!!

Have ya'll ever replaced the upper ball joint? It's not like it's pressed in there as tight as the lower joint. You don't even need a press to get it out. Remove the circlip and 2-3 whacks with a regular hammer got mine out. The SPC kit also fits just a tad more than snug and is an easy install.

And there really isn't much force on the upper control arm anyway, no more than 400-500 lbs over bumps if that much. It's got a ton of leverage working in its favor. There is absolutely no need to waste money on a new control arm.

[HardInThePaint]

Have ya'll ever replaced the upper ball joint? It's not like it's pressed in there as tight as the lower joint. You don't even need a press to get it out. Remove the circlip and 2-3 whacks with a regular hammer got mine out. The SPC kit also fits just a tad more than snug and is an easy install.

I have never installed a balljoint camber kit myself. I couldn't ever get the old balljoint out. I am all for doing shit urself. Its just that there are some things I'm not comfortable doing myself. Its pretty inexpensive to have one installed (here in Denver atleast) but if u got the money I would just get the one from TAS Auto like Deevergote commented on, the one with the control arm and balljoint camber kit already put together.

[deevergote]

HOLD ON!!!

Have ya'll ever replaced the upper ball joint? It's not like it's pressed in there as tight as the lower joint. You don't even need a press to get it out. Remove the circlip and 2-3 whacks with a regular hammer got mine out. The SPC kit also fits just a tad more than snug and is an easy install.

And there really isn't much force on the upper control arm anyway, no more than 400-500 lbs over bumps if that much. It's got a ton of leverage working in its favor. There is absolutely no need to waste money on a new control arm.

Very true. There is considerably less force on it...

I still feel safer with the TASauto unit, though. Brand new everything.

[ghettofabcb]

i have the spc front and rear got mine from jegs pretty decent priced...i had to take the control arm off to get the old ball joints out... everything worked out but if i knew about the tas ones id probably have gone with that.... but no problems yet and its been about a year.

[owequitit]

I'm uneasy with removing the stock ball joint, as it has to be pressed out, which can weaken the already thin metal that holds it in place. Nobody has had a problem yet, but I don't like it.

TASauto.com has a full upper control arm with an adjustable Ingalls ball joint. I have that on my car, and I would never run anything else.


As said above, under 2" can usually be fine with just an alignment. You'll still have camber wear, but it won't be excessive. Keep up with rotating your tires properly, and you shouldn't have any real issues.


As for your car not looking like it's as low as it should be... give it time. It will settle.

The metal of the control arm is not that thin. It is pressed steel stamping, so the thickness at the balljoint is the same as the thickness on the rest of the arm that is absorbing the several tons of force that ultimately go into the upper control arm. Not to mention that the stock balljoint actually presses out very easily, and the additional double half design of the SPC kit actually would reinforce that area when compared to stock.

Honda uses them on their factory built and backed race cars, so I don't think there is really much concern there. The HPD TL, etc have used them.

[Tippey764]

Very true. There is considerably less force on it...

I still feel safer with the TASauto unit, though. Brand new everything.

Plus your getting polyurethane bushings

[JaberCB7]

If you're dropped not more than 2 inches , you'll be fine without them.
All you need is regular alignment routine.

im dropped 1.75 and still couldnt get perfect when i got my cb align, guy said in about 3 months my tires will have alot of camber wear

As for your car not looking like it's as low as it should be... give it time. It will settle.

when i installed my neuspeed springs i thought the same thing then my boy showed me a tick, he got on top of the rad support and started hoping up and down a few times and the car settled in.

Have you ever seen the thin band of metal that holds the ball joint in? Have you ever noticed that you can't buy the upper ball joint separate from the upper control arm from Honda?

I wouldn't risk pressing it out. Especially since that's the part that smacks the fenderwell when camber is corrected, unless you do something to prevent it.

you know you got me thinking about this, gonna check out TAS.