Is this code the actual oxygen sensor or something else. After my whole rebuild, this is the only code im throwing. I even blocked off the egr and is not connected at all and im not throwing a code for it. But if anyone knows about code 41, heated oxygen sensor, please help.. thanks
-
-
Oxygen sensor heater.
And yes, that really can't be anything else. Replace your oxygen sensor.
-
My o2 sensor got pwnt too (was reading lean), probably from leaking coolant being poured all over it. I picked up 3 from pick n' pull for $2 each instead of buying a brand new one for $90Originally posted by deevergote View Post
, one of them has got to work! Gotta love cheap repairs xD
Comment
-
cheap is all they are..you dont know if they work and then youre going to be looking for a new one after all that money you spent on old ones..I bought a new NTK sensor for 68 buck so they are not that expensive..Originally posted by StreetNewb View PostMy o2 sensor got pwnt too (was reading lean), probably from leaking coolant being poured all over it. I picked up 3 from pick n' pull for $2 each instead of buying a brand new one for $90, one of them has got to work! Gotta love cheap repairs xD
Back on topic, As Deev said replace your O2 sensor and you should be good..make sure to reset your ECU also..
Rush
Originally posted by DarkcloudBought 3 things, 1 that goes boom,1 that shades and 1 to go fasrer
Originally posted by bmxicansd
Comment
-
That's how I deal with my ignition coil and igniter... cheap junkyard parts
The o2 sensor will be best if it's new, though. They're ALL bad by this point! NGK/NTK or Denso are the brands to get. Bosch is cheaper, but it won't work.
Also, a narrowband AF meter (one reading from the stock o2 sensor) is really nothing but a light show. It doesn't tell you anything useful. The CEL is what will tell you if your o2 sensor is bad. Code 41 is almost guarateed to be the o2 sensor. Code 43 (fuel supply system) is very often the o2 sensor (though not always...)
Comment
-
Thanks guys, appreciate the help,that makes sense, now why am i not throwing a code for my EGR, which is great, but would still like to no why, I completely removed the wires for the EGR and blocked it off..After that whole swap and rebuild, im glad im just throwing the one code though.. thanks.
Does anyone know the color of the four wires coming from the wiring harness that go to the o2 sensor off hand..Comment
-
I don't know the colors, unfortunately. Download a manual... it should be in there. If possible, you'd be better off not splicing anything. Get an o2 sensor that just plugs in. Splicing CAN alter the signal, and cause it to not work properly.
As for the EGR, I don't know why you aren't throwing a code there... Is the sensor still plugged in?
Comment
-
-
My car is running awesome except for the up and down idle when you first start it up, but that just lasts for a second, which i think is the fast idle valve, but i cut all the wiring for the clips for the auto tranny and that was it, everything has a spot right now and is plugged exactly where it should be and i have three clips left and i am hoping one is for the o2 sensor which is not hooked up yet. One has 2 wires, one has three and the other has four, and i cant afford an oxygen sensor to be able to look at the end.
Before i started this build, it just had a real old rusty exhaust with the o2 sensor in it factory and was throwing the same code, 41 before i ever started this build, When i junked the whole exhaust when i first started and the old o2 is gone.. so i will try to look up the wire color tonight, i think it has 4 wires? dont know yet, thanks..
thanks, didnt see that post. lol
No the egr wires are cut off at the man harness Deeve.
I reset the ecu and still not getting a code for the egr, ohh well good for me . lol
Do you think that the fast idle i get up and down when first start it are because of the oxygen sensor, would this effect the start up temp control by any means.Instead of the fast idle valve.Last edited by evil_demon_01; 04-11-2010, 04:21 AM.Comment
-
No, the air boost valve is what causes the intial spike in rpms when you first start the car.Originally posted by tootallComment
-
should i just block it off, it was cleaned and a new gasket installed when i redid everything, or the vacuum off of it.Comment
-
Do you have a bouncing idle issue?
Does it spike up and down, then up and down, over and over after you start it up?
Otherwise the initial rpm spike on startup is normal, what rpm does it spike to?Comment
-
It starts perfect and jumps up to 2.5 and back down and it does it back and fourth alot, until its warmed up, then its perfect, it did this before my swap and rebuild to. i can start it after that and its fine. only when its the first cold start..Comment
-
Sounds like either the fast idle thermo valve (fitv) or the idle air control valve (iacv). Try opening up the fitv and tightening the plate inside it. Theres a diy guide for it on here somewhere.... just do a search. As for the iacv it commonly gets built up with carbon and a simple spraying with carb cleaner on the screen/insides will do wonders. Also remember that the coolant flow through the fitv and iacv is specific (as in one way), if hooked up incorrectly it can cause issues, air bubbles in the cooling system has also been known to cause the issue of the bouncing idle.Originally posted by tootall View Post
My guess for all of this would be to check the fitv first.
Just out of curiousity where is the vacuum hose for your air boost valve connected? It should be connected directly to the intake pipe, not the intake manifold.Comment
-
I cleaned all valves when i stripped the throttle body while i had it off and got the inside very clean on both, and the vacuum line does run to the intake. Ill look that up, thanks, if you have any more info, id appreciate it.
I also know that the coolant part is hooked up right.Comment
Comment