Engine problem ( video inside )

[Tippey764]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeE9eJcoTZA ( can someone embed this video and tell me how to do it in the future. I tried to copy the embed code from youtube but it didnt work )

TLDR:

Cylinder #1 ( or #4 i dont know ) if you take the spark plug it wire it still idles fineish

If you take out any other spark plug wire it idles like shit

Does this mean that cylinder is getting poor compression or somthing?


ninjadeev edit

[StreetNewb]

[ youtube ] [ / youtube ] < remove spaces.

[deevergote]

To embed the video, either put the full embed link, or just this part of the URL:
EeE9eJcoTZA

between the YOUTUBE tags (can be made by clicking the YouTube button when posting, or just by typing them out... same as img tags, only instead of img, it's YOUTUBE and /YOUTUBE)


As for the problem itself... i've never seen anything like that. That's strange.

[foamypirate]

Check your intake manifold gasket. I had a similar issue, and it turned out a section of the intake manifold gasket had blown out somehow.

[deevergote]

It sounds like the car is idling normally with and without that cylinder thuogh... that makes no sense!

[Raf99]

they should all drop even, if 1 cylinder hardly drops in idle speed , that is the 1 that is misfiring or doesn't have spark. How did you verify spark?

issue with that cylinder ( low or no compression)?
isue with plug wire?
injector would do it, but when i had that happen the engine ran rough

compression test would help. Someone else may have some better ideas you can try.

[deevergote]

A bad cylinder is all I can think of... but I'd think that would cause it to run poorly with or without the plug. The fact that it idles well with or without the plug is really throwing me!

[Tippey764]

I swapped plug wires with my brothers car and it ran the same

I'm pretty sure it's getting spark. It runs worse without it but not as bad if you take any of the other ones. I can also hear it sparking on the tube wall when I pull it out

my car does rumble and feel like it's going to stall when idling. If you rev it though it's fine and smooth. It's been like this ever since I got it.

[deevergote]

I say do a compression test. That's my only thought as far as that cylinder goes.


Have you replaced your distributor cap and rotor yet?

[Tippey764]

I say do a compression test. That's my only thought as far as that cylinder goes.


Have you replaced your distributor cap and rotor yet?

I'm going to have my brother do a compression test. And no I have never replaced my cap and rotor? Could it be getting a weak spark because of a faulty distributor?

[deevergote]

The cap and rotor are more likely. The cap especailly.

Pull the cap and check it out. I bet you'll find the lead for that cylinder is covered in corrosion.

[Tippey764]

The cap and rotor are more likely. The cap especailly.

Pull the cap and check it out. I bet you'll find the lead for that cylinder is covered in corrosion.

Alright ill take a look tomarrow. Are there any DIY's for this or should i just use my honda manual?

[deevergote]

You don't need it. It's just a few screws. Just be sure you put the wires back where they belong! You can take the cap off with no problem without removing the distributor (don't unbolt that, or you'll have to redo your ignition timing... which you might want to look into doing anyway)

If you need to replace the rotor, and the one on there is OEM, there will be a screw holding it on. Many people don't realize this and end up breaking things trying to get it off! If it's aftermarket, most of those just slide on, and come off fairly easily.


Replacing the cap and rotor is a 5 minute job, and parts will cost you less than $20.

[Tippey764]

You don't need it. It's just a few screws. Just be sure you put the wires back where they belong! You can take the cap off with no problem without removing the distributor (don't unbolt that, or you'll have to redo your ignition timing... which you might want to look into doing anyway)

If you need to replace the rotor, and the one on there is OEM, there will be a screw holding it on. Many people don't realize this and end up breaking things trying to get it off! If it's aftermarket, most of those just slide on, and come off fairly easily.


Replacing the cap and rotor is a 5 minute job, and parts will cost you less than $20.

Alright. Is it advisable to get a new cap and rotor or...?

And i really hope this is the problem because it feels like my car has cerebral palsy. It shakes when you drive because of a bad axle and it shakes when your idling and for an unknown reason lol. Its like a massage car.

[Losiracer2]

I would go to Honda for the cap and rotor, It turned out my dealer had a cap/rotor tune up kit for about 20 bucks. Checker/Oreilley wanted 38 for a cap and rotor separately. Can't beat Honda quality.