Best Options For Control Arms

[BLKWLF]

Hi guys. Upgrading my suspension soon with a progress rear sway bar and poly bushings but would also like to replace my control arms while im at. Get the whole thing done at once. What are my options when it comes to both front and rear control arms?
Also got a 2in or 2.5in drop and plan to run wider tyres in the future, so what kind of camber kit would be good for that?

I have read through the suspension threads and done searches but i would like some more info. Hopefully from people who have experience with these kits, but all opinions welcome .

[Raf99]

Hi guys. Upgrading my suspension soon with a progress rear sway bar and poly bushings but would also like to replace my control arms while im at. Get the whole thing done at once. What are my options when it comes to both front and rear control arms?
Also got a 2in or 2.5in drop and plan to run wider tyres in the future, so what kind of camber kit would be good for that?

I have read through the suspension threads and done searches but i would like some more info. Hopefully from people who have experience with these kits, but all opinions welcome .

From what I've read over time you can buy new OEM front and rear control arms, or you can replace the bushings in your current ones with polyurethane ones. Replacing the bushings can be a PITA though and may require some cutting, banging, torching, etc.

The camber kit I cannot comment on as I've never run the wide setup. I'm assuming its just a regular camber kit with negative camber applied.

[kantkillkeenan]

Ingalls camber kits are good

[deevergote]

I would get the TASauto front upper control arm. It's an Ingalls ball joint kit in a brand new control arm, complete with poly bushings. Personally, I don't trust pressing out the stock ball joint to install a ball joint camber kit, so replaceing the stock arms with more stock arms if you want a camber kit could be pointless.

Rear stuff, I think Ingalls and Megan Racing both made decent products. Or you could just replace the bushings and do the "washer trick" for camber correction.

[f20cb7]

I used to do the washer "trick" at an alignment shop but we called the washers shims lol. Works none the less. And pressing bushings in and out is a garunteed PITA

[bcjammerx]

your arms are fine...what you will end up paying for are new bushings and ball joints.

SAVE cash...buy poly bushings, replace the ones in the stock arms...buy spc adj ball joints...or moog...either one is tough as SHITTIN' NAILS!!!...or nails shit....either way they are great.

I'd rather have superior bushings matches with THE best/safest ball joints you can get.

after the exp. I've had with good quality aftermarket ball joints (the uppers are all just pressed in and held in with a clip...even OEM...oem just did it better)...I'd much rather have a ball joint that presses and BOLTS in just me...but why buy an arm AND bushings...old arm is just fine...clean it up...

[deevergote]

The OEM joints are pressed in... the metal holding them in on the outside is rather thin. It makes me nervous thinking that I'd be trusting metal that was potentially compromised to hold such an important part in place. If that metal snaps, or the joint slips out because the hole was slightly enlarged... you crash. I've never heard of it happening, so it probably never will... but the TASauto arms give you all new stuff (including the best ball joints and bushings). The only thing you'll lose is a little more money. But for peace of mind (and potential safety) the difference is a very small price to pay, I feel !

[bcjammerx]

The OEM joints are pressed in... the metal holding them in on the outside is rather thin. It makes me nervous thinking that I'd be trusting metal that was potentially compromised to hold such an important part in place. If that metal snaps, or the joint slips out because the hole was slightly enlarged... you crash. I've never heard of it happening, so it probably never will... but the TASauto arms give you all new stuff (including the best ball joints and bushings). The only thing you'll lose is a little more money. But for peace of mind (and potential safety) the difference is a very small price to pay, I feel !

TAS is where I got my new a-arms from. Their upper ball joints, as well as the OEM ones, are pressed in and then have a c-clip placed in a groove in the ball joint.

In my situation I hit a pot hole (one I've hit before with no issues) and the c-clip bent and the ball joint was pushed out of the a-arm. When I removed the parts it was my impression that the groove on the ball joint for the c-clip was not deep enough (the OEM honda one looked deeper) and there was a very very small bit of it helping to keep the ball joint in. While the "pressing" in of the ball joint is what should keep it in place, the c-clip is more of a back of measure...in this case (mine) both failed.

This style makes me nervous...I don't know why the tas (which offered me a full refund btw...great company to deal with!) arms behaved this way...the oem ball joints groove did appear deeper, I didn't measure it though. I decided I wouldn't buy this type again.

now with my spc's...noooo problems love them suckers!

[BLKWLF]

Read in some posts that spc's nock sometimes. Do you have that problem? What about the Blox control arms? Anyone try those?

[bcjammerx]

Read in some posts that spc's nock sometimes. Do you have that problem? What about the Blox control arms? Anyone try those?

if you lower your ride your arms will knock no matter what you install to correct your camber unless you hammer out the inner fender well...so I've heard...I'm not lowered so I don't have that issue.

I like the spc's because I just replace the bushings in the a-arms, and they bolt in instead of press and clip in. Just me though. Also, I've got the newer style spc's, they have a low(ER) profile nut.

[BLKWLF]

I dont have any knocking issues at the moment and im lowered around 2.5in but still thanks for the info. Very insightful. Anyone try the Blox Control arms by any chance?